Buying a Blower

[GravyMaster]

Is there a website where I can buy an already assembled blower to place into my kegerator? I know there are directions on how to make them all over the internet, but I'm not very good with that type of thing nor do I have the time to put one together. Just want my tower to be as cool as possible.

[tappa kegga bud]

I've had good luck with the blower that micromatic sells. I have my faucets about 6 feet above the kegs, in a straight vertical line. The 2" PVC tower run has a pair of beer lines and a 1" O.D. PVC pipe for supply air. The return air just happens naturally with the open space. The only problem you may run into with his blower is that it's kind of big and does generate some heat. If you're working with a smaller "mini-fridge" type unit, you may be strapped for space or over-taxing it's cooling capacity. There are plenty of very informative threads on here about building a blower with a computer fan and stuff. (with pictures and all) Good luck with your project, this is the place to be for info on all your home kegerator needs.

[RickDel]

Well, if you're talking about a blower like this one:

then I can tell you step by step what to buy and what other have used (mostly courtesy of SkinsFan1311)

You can get the blower and bracket for around $75 at granger. Get a power cord from Lowes for about $8 and some clear tubing for about $1.39 a foot. Oh, and that adapter can also be purchased at Lowes for about $2.

Now, if you're talking about the PC fan in a box, then I've seen a very detailed post on this site that provides instructions for that too.

Good Luck - Rick

[cubby_swans]

Is there a website where I can buy an already assembled blower to place into my kegerator? I know there are directions on how to make them all over the internet, but I'm not very good with that type of thing nor do I have the time to put one together. Just want my tower to be as cool as possible.

seriously, you don't have to be good at any type of thing to build a blower, and you have the time. I can build one in 15-20 minutes for $25. But either way, if you don't have a commercial unit with a pre-installed blower, you're going to have to do some assembly by wiring whatever you buy, and attaching a hose that runs into the tower. To me, a $75 blower in a home unit is overkill, not to mention they generate enough heat to probably raise the energy cost of the unit a few bucks here and there. I would go with the PC fan blower.

If you read THIS post

http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-en/kegerators-kegerator-kits-home/2163-can-i-use-blower-cool-my-tower.html

it has all the instructions you need to build a PC fan box... the instructions start about half way through the thread, and also there's a link in this thread to Duff, who gave me the idea in the first place. He used the project box from Radio Shack, I just happened to have spare parts laying around.

[CableGuy]

Agreed. I started out with a blower (same one sold here) and found that I then needed additional circulation inside the kegerator due to the heat generated by the blower. For that purpose I installed a fan, similar to those used in PCs, but a little bigger. After a little trial and error I found that I didn't even need the blower anymore. The fan generated far less heat, and can both cool the tower AND circulate the air in the kegerator at the same time. I'll post some pics of my current setup if you'd like to know more.

[RickDel]

I'd like to see the pics Cableguy. I'm building a remote dispense to a tower 6' away in the next room, so I think a blower is probably necessary. However, I may also want to mount a 120mm PC fan to the bottom of the freezer to circulate the air (still unsure).

Thanks

[bfky]

Hey Rick, not sure if you saw my pics after I posted or not, but I did exactly that - I used two Radio Shack fans, though:

http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-en/trouble-shooting-beer-quality-home/2828-new-chest-freezer-conversion-couple-issues-work-out.html

I think I need to make one more modification to it, though, to ensure full air circulation with a 1/2 barrel in, because it seems to restrict circulation somewhat. Unfortunately, I haven't figured out what to do yet.

[RickDel]

bfky, Yes, I previously read your post and saw your pics, and I appreciate the response.

Two questions:

What are you liquid temps (out of the tower)? I'm concerned mine won't be as cold as I want to be because I have a 5' run and TWO bends.

Also, what are you using to insulate your PVC pipe? I can't use PVC because I'll have to use a 'S' angle where the return tube turns up and right to match up with the tower. My ONLY decision left to make is WHAT TYPE OF RETURN TUBE TO USE???????????? With that 'S' angle, I think I'll need to use some sort of flexable metal duct with outter insulation. Any suggestions????

(I wish I would have just built a glycol from the start)

Thanks!

[bfky]

What are you liquid temps (out of the tower)? I'm concerned mine won't be as cold as I want to be because I have a 5' run and TWO bends.

I just chug tested it, and I have 37 degrees. The first one was probably 39-40; I need a couple degrees at my faucets (not a tower - I am at a slight disadvantage b/c I am cooling a faucet box instead of a toiwer, so you should have it easier) to be perfect. The Brewers Edge is set to come on at 39 with a 4 degree differential and a 7 minute anti short cycle

Also, what are you using to insulate your PVC pipe?

It is a bigger question than that. I used 1" ID flex PVC inside of 2" DWV PVC for the run. There are two supply lines sitting outside the flex PVC and a rubber coupler with worm clamps halfway through the run - I couldn't fish everything without that coupler. My box insulation is 1/2" styrofoam from Lowes and for the run I bought PVC pipe insulation from Lowes as well; for my ~5'-6' run with one 90, I used almost 60 linear feet of insution, but it is like 6 bucks for 15 feet, so who cares? It looks like aluminum foil plus foam plus tape and I found it in the duct aisle of my Lowes. My Home Depot has that insulation in the sprinkler pipe section, so YMMV.

[RickDel]

Wow, that seems like the beer is the same temp as the freezer? And you still have a few more degrees to play around with, so if you wanted it colder you could probably lower your Brewmaster a little lower, right?

Are you having any rust problems in your kegerator?

I'm familiar with the insulated foil tape you're describing. I've actually spent numerous hours in Lowes trying to brainstorm a plan. I'm wondering how flexible aluminum duct would work if I used the same foil tape for insulation???? (I want really cold beer)

So, it's difficult to feed your beer lines through the PVC? Maybe I'll have to use a rubber coupler also about half way down the run for easy access. Also, I think I'm going to have a few feet of 3/16" beer line spliced to 1/4", so a coupler would help with the easy access in case I need to adjust my lengths.

Anyhow, thanks for the response. Looks like I'll be hitting Lowes for my last items to finalize this thing (I've been raping Lowes with the $10 off $25 Visa coupon - that thing has saved me at least $100 over the past few weeks!!!)

[bfky]

Wow, that seems like the beer is the same temp as the freezer? And you still have a few more degrees to play around with, so if you wanted it colder you could probably lower your Brewmaster a little lower, right?

Well, that was after puring what was in the faucet / line and chugging, then pouring a new one and measuring it. I lose a couple degrees between the freezer and the faucet box, since the box hangs right at 39-40 degrees. No idea how to solve that one yet.

Are you having any rust problems in your kegerator?

Not yet, but I've only had this completed for a couple months. I try to clean out the condensation when I replace the keg in the 1/2 barrel side. I read somewhere (here maybe?) that Lowes has something called Damprid to help with condensation, but haven't tried that yet. I need to, though. Or, if anyone reading this has used something successfully to prevent condensation, please let me know.

I'm wondering how flexible aluminum duct would work if I used the same foil tape for insulation???? (I want really cold beer)

I'd vote PVC, since I think it has more innate insulative properties than duct. Just my opinion, though.

So, it's difficult to feed your beer lines through the PVC? Maybe I'll have to use a rubber coupler also about half way down the run for easy access. Also, I think I'm going to have a few feet of 3/16" beer line spliced to 1/4", so a coupler would help with the easy access in case I need to adjust my lengths.

Without the bend, the couple wouldn't have been necessary, but I tried taping the supply lines to the blower tube and they just wouldn't stay. So, I used the coupler to simplify things. Maybe I could have eventually got it without the couple, but I ended up switching from 1/4 to 3/16 supply lines and that made the switch easy to do without ruining my caulk seal. A+++++, WOULD BUY COUPLER AGAIN.

[Skinsfan1311]

. To me, a $75 blower in a home unit is overkill, not to mention they generate enough heat to probably raise the energy cost of the unit a few bucks here and there.

Agreed. I started out with a blower (same one sold here) and found that I then needed additional circulation inside the kegerator due to the heat generated by the blower.

I have the Dayton blower and haven't found heat to be an issue. Beer pours at 37 degrees.

The air return from the tower seems to generate enough airflow in the unit.

I'd venture to say that the cost saved by not having foamy beer will offset the few bucks saved by powering a small fan, especially if it's expensive beer.

[cubby_swans]

I have the Dayton blower and haven't found heat to be an issue. Beer pours at 37 degrees.

The air return from the tower seems to generate enough airflow in the unit.

I'd venture to say that the cost saved by not having foamy beer will offset the few bucks saved by powering a small fan, especially if it's expensive beer.

I'm sure your unit cools fine, but it's working harder to do so. What I said was it will cost you a few bucks here and there. Your blower IS generating heat. Thus, your electric bill goes up.

I'll venture to say that I don't have foamy beer, so the $75+ I saved with a small DC fan will never be offset by wasted beer, whether it be cheap or expensive. If you're not doing a run, you simply don't NEED a blower like the dayton. Just because you spent more, doesn't mean it works better. Mine works perfectly, and with the money saved, I'll get myself a 1/4 or a 1/6 of some damn good beer that pours great.

[Skinsfan1311]

I'm sure your unit cools fine, but it's working harder to do so. What I said was it will cost you a few bucks here and there. Your blower IS generating heat. Thus, your electric bill goes up.

I'll venture to say that I don't have foamy beer, so the $75+ I saved with a small DC fan will never be offset by wasted beer, whether it be cheap or expensive. If you're not doing a run, you simply don't NEED a blower like the dayton. Just because you spent more, doesn't mean it works better. Mine works perfectly, and with the money saved, I'll get myself a 1/4 or a 1/6 of some damn good beer that pours great.

Good points all!

The A#1 recurring issue on these forums is foam.

Never meant to imply that you had foamy beer.

The old Kenmore kegerator that was given to me, had foam issues that went away after I installed the Dayton blower.

I was only throwing out there what I know works for me.

That being said, the money that I saved by not having to purchase a kegerator has afforded me the luxury of paying $75.00 for a blower and plenty left over buy lots of damn fine beer that pours great.

[cubby_swans]

Good points all!

The A#1 recurring issue on these forums is foam.

Never meant to imply that you had foamy beer.

The old Kenmore kegerator that was given to me, had foam issues that went away after I installed the Dayton blower.

I was only throwing out there what I know works for me.

That being said, the money that I saved by not having to purchase a kegerator has afforded me the luxury of paying $75.00 for a blower and plenty left over buy lots of damn fine beer that pours great.

I think I mis-read your post. I took it that you were saying a small fan wouldn't work as well as your fan. But now I think you were referring to your fan as the little fan.

All I'm trying to say is that inside a home kegerator, if you're just cooling a tower, you don't need a $75 blower. You DO need to cool the tower, but a $10 PC fan works just as well and costs less to run.