New chest freezer conversion - couple of issues to work out

[bfky]

Hi all,

This is a fantastic forum. I've used a lot of the tips and tricks mentioned in it and am trying to sort out two remaining issues.

So, I converted a chest freezer to a kegerator using the Brewer's Legend, 2x6+insulation,1x10 wood collar, etc - basically what you would expect out of someone who has spent too much time reading this forum and not enough time on their job. However, beer is coming out of my faucets too rapidly and I am getting too much foam. I read somewhere on here that I'm looking at two different issues, which I can believe, but I don't see any foam in the visible lines, so maybe they are related? Anyway, on to my setup.....

I have two wall faucets (with the drip tray plus drain from here) that are 1 1/2' to 2' above the top of the keg and about 4 1/2' from the edge of the kegerator. I've set up a box like the one in this thread. My box looks a little different, but the same general idea, and it is coled using a 1" ID flexible PVC air line attached to the 12 CFM blower from Micromatic witha 2" PVC return tube. That tube has one long sweep 90 and one 2" to 2" rubber coupling to handle a 22.5 degree (approximate) angle.

Now, here's where I suspect the problem lies... I've read where a lot of people had to go longer than 5' with the 3/16 ID line - I think I've seen 7' to 10' recommended by posters. I also read that the ideal length of 3/16" ID line was no more than 5' somewhere and then you should go to a coiled up 12' 1/4" line. So, I did that. Now, I am experiencing a veritable geytser of beer out of my faucet (it misses the drip tray if I don't have my glass there) at 12 PSI and is massively foamy. Beer is Miller Lite, since I saw no reason to start with something expensive until I had the kinks worked out, and temperature was 44 (!!!) shortly after getting it home and tapping it - so much for the walk in cooler....

Anyway, I think once the keg normalizes at 36-38 I should be in better shape, but I still have the geytser to deal with and a ton of foam. So, i have two questions for the folks here... One, is this balancing guide useful? If so, it suggests I need to add 5' of 1/4" of 1' of 3/16" based on my spreadsheet. Let's add a supplementary question before I get to my second.... Is there any reason not to add a foot of 3/16"into a 12' 1/4" ID line? Now my second question - is it normal for a new keg to be that high of a temp and, if so, does it screw it up to tap it before it normalizes wth the kegerator?

Thanks for a great forum.

[psychodad]

You should always let a keg settle for an hour or two before tapping. No matter how careful you are, you are going to agitate it quite a bit in transport and getting it into the house.

I never had any luck balancing according to the page you linked. I'm sure it is good information, I just had better luck being patient making small adjustments and giving things time to settle out between adjustments. You can make an adjustment between every glass you draw and never tell it it helped without giving it time.

[bfky]

I added 10' of 1/4" line and that has the flow looking normal now. After sticking multiple thermometers in the kegerator, I've discovered that I do not have even temperatures throughout. I was hoping the 12CFM fan would provide enough circulation to give me even temps, but that appears to not be the case. So, I suppose I'm adding a PC fan somewhere - any suggestions on blowing up vs down or placement? I'm thinking roughly middle of the kegerator blownig upwards, but is that optimal?

thanks for the info on settling the keg - I'll make sure to do that from here on out.

[bfky]

OK, think I have everything fixed and will add this post if anyone searches for a similar issue. I added two 12V DC Radio Shack brushless fans and changed to ~9' of 3/16th line instead of 20' of 1/4". Everything seems to be good now.

[RickDel]

I'd like to see some pics if you get the chance.

[bfky]

Ask and ye shall receive.


General picture:



CO2 is on a shelf out of the way - the regulator really makes it want to tip, so I used a couple pipe straps:


And the inside - I have a bit of cleaning up to do still:


Closeup of the fans:

[bfky]

Faucet cooling box - note the thermometer and the clamps to allow for easy access if needed, while still retaining a tight seal. I apologize for the quality of the inside photo, but it was hard to avoid having the flash overpower it:





Faucets:


I am going to clean up the tubes and wires a bit in there still. I am also thinking about getting one of these hangers. Kind of expensive, but it will make it easy to get the blower tube out of the way and back in when putting a 1/2 barrel in.

[bonefish]

I would turn the CO2 tank, and secure the regulator to the wall. Great Job!
It's Friday!
SEAN

[bfky]

Yeah, I considered that, but the problem is access - if you look at the top picture, you'll see that there isn't a lot of room to the sides of the freezer. The CO2 is on the back right wall, and if I screwed it in, changing the tank would be a PITA. So, I went with the pipe straps. I don't like how it looks right now either, though, so I may make a frame out of 2x4s or something and create a more secure holding place.

Edit: there's actually two pipe straps - one looped around the tank, and the one you see running between the studs.

[Scott Zuhse]

You insulated your air exchange box well except at the shanks. You may want to avoid going through a thick space such as a 2 x 6 ???. Minimize the amount of area that can transfer heat into the shanks while still having a surface to tighten the shank nuts onto but still stout for stability.

Have you insulated the outside of the conduit between the keg box and the air exchange box? Difficult to determine if this is wrapped or not.

[bfky]

Yes, I had a depth problem with the shanks, so there was not room for more insulation. However, it is tile / mortar on the other side, which doesn't allow for much heat transfer. The box is made out of a 1x6 that I had left over from the rest of the basement finishing.

I've got a quarter or a third of the conduit insulated now, I just need to go buy more pipe wrap.