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  • No beer!

    Alright, first and foremost hello and thank you for your help.

    I just bought a used Haier Brewmaster from someone on Craigslist that just never used it anymore (kids, soccer games and whatnot). Since my employees and I seem to be far more productive after a beer or 2 or 5, I decided that I needed one of these to keep the business running smooth.

    Once I got the kegerator in, I noticed that the beer line was old and immediately replaced it with a new line from here. I just got the CO2 tanks refilled, got the keg in, and hooked it all up to find that I'm not getting any beer pouring at all. No foam, very little beer in the line and maybe a drop out of the faucet. I've untapped and re-tapped the keg a few times just to make sure I'm not completely stupid and that hasn't fixed it. I put the other CO2 tank on to make sure that I was good there and nothing. The regulator is giving me about 750 PSI in the tank and will let me go all the way up to 20 PSI to the keg, which is more than enough from what I can see here on the forums (Yuengling beer should be at 12PSI). I've untapped the keg and ran the CO2 for a quick second just to make sure that it was actually coming out of the tap, and it is.

    Basically, what am I doing wrong here? I've seemingly followed the instructions in the manual to a T, and have even watched a few YouTube videos to be 100% sure and I'm doing things properly from what I can see. I figured I would come to the beer masters here and see if anyone has an idea on what could be wrong or broken that could solve my problem.

    Thanks again for your time,
    Matt

  • #2
    Couple things you can check.

    The fastest potential issues:you are fully engaging the coupler on the keg? Turn the coupler as far as it will go and then engage the handle down until it clicks.

    Do you have the beer and Co2 lines installed correctly? Co2 in the side, beer out the top.

    You probably have done these, but simplest things first.


    On to the other potential problems, I've attached a photo at the bottom - use that as a reference for the part numbers I list.


    First - since this is used, check the status of the check valve ball in the top of the coupler, part number 2. It is held in place under the beer line coupling nut with part number 1. If this thing sat dirty for a long period of time, it's possible it has been glued in place by old beer. You can use a pipe cleaner or something similar to dislodge it. Poke from the bottom of the coupler (where it attaches to the keg) and push through to the top.

    If that doesn't solve the issue. Check the rubber 'duckbill' check valve where the Co2 line meets the coupler. The bill should point into the coupler, part number 10. Also be certain you don't have this installed on the beer side by mistake, that would certainly stop the beer.

    Lastly, a frozen keg would also have issues pouring - could that be it?


    2.jpg
    Last edited by Sketch; 08-27-2012, 05:13 PM.

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    • #3
      Hey Sketch, thanks for the help.

      Unfortunately all of those things are good to go. The coupler is completely on the keg and is pushed as far as it can go and the handle is in the down and locked position. Co2 and beer are installed on their correct spots and the beer was fresh from the liquor store and I can hear it slosh around inside, so I don't think its frozen.

      I've cleaned the coupler very well with the cleaning solution and brush it came with. That thing is squeaky clean and the ball is in good shape in the correct spot. The duckbill also is correct.

      One thing that might help is that when I engage the coupler into its open position, a small bit of foam shoots into the line and there is the sound that the pressure is being stopped by something (possibly the ball?). Its almost like the Co2 is getting into the keg, but something inside the coupler is just stopping the beer from coming out.

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      • #4
        Though, what is part #8 on the image? I have that, but turning it either direction seems to do literally nothing and I cannot find any information about it.

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        • #5
          I've also seen some people just say to remove the ball in the coupler as it can cause a ton of problems. Could this be one of those problems?

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          • #6
            Number 8 is the pressure relief valve - pull on if you ever want to purge the Co2 from the keg.

            Feel free to remove the ball - all it does is prevent the beer in the beerline between the faucet and the coupler from coming out when you uncouple the keg. It isn't a lot of volume and as such not a big deal to not have it. By removing it you will at least know if it's the problem or not.

            If those aren't the culprits, I am not sure what else might be going on. What beer are you attempting to pour? Do you know what type of coupler your have? D, S, etc? Could you post some pictures of your coupler - a couple from different angles would be ideal.

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            • #7
              I am using a Yuengling beer and an american sanskey coupler. I removed the ball and that seemed to at least get something into the glass. I noticed that there is some air and foam coming from the nut connection with the beer line and coupler and all I have is a crappy small pair of pliers. So it looks like a trip to home depot for a proper wrench set is in order and I think I might actually have a good flow aside from that.

              None the less, I have a 1/4 of a glass of settled beer now and its never tasted so good I'll return here tomorrow after I tighten up the nut to see if it fixes it or just gives me another problem. Thanks again for the help Sketch.

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              • #8
                broli4000,
                Can you post how you replaced the line and if you took out BOTH the check ball AND retainer? Make sure you have the black neoprene washer between beer line and coupler, if the retainer is not there you may have to use several washers or if broken needs to be removed, you should pick up several and the faucet wrench (if you don't have one) from MM. A crescent or channel lock should be good enough to work the beer line coupler hex, I use the wrench that comes with the MM faucet wrench. If you don't have a faucet wrench then you probably didn't disassemble the faucet. With an old unit that hasn't be used you have to disassemble both faucet and coupler, coupler can be disassembled by taking hex screw off and separating probe from body (you will be surprised how dirty it can get), look at the duckbill, sometimes the duckbill can get stuck together causing low or no flow of CO2, look for damage on duckbill, torn edge can cause foam, use a black neoprene washer. Get the BLC from MM make sure the faucet and coupler are clean, anything other than MM BLC can cause problems, the BLC that comes with the Haier is evil, too strong and chlorinated, do not use.
                If it were me I would take coupler and faucet off, disassemble, clean and inspect. Makes sure you have all your washers and not damaged, you have 2 seals at the bottom of the coupler, several between the probe and body. You have one between coupler and beer line. Faucet has an "O" ring between faucet and shank, and a stopper washer which stops the beer. Also check the 2 air holes, one is under the spout, the other can only be seen when disassembled, right under tap handle when everything is taken apart, sorry have to ask, make sure you have a calibrated thermometer and clean room temperature glasses when you check temperature. When you post back, describe speed and what it looks like and how long the line you replaced original with.
                KB
                Last edited by KillianBoy; 08-27-2012, 09:12 PM.

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                • #9
                  I just bought a new beer line with the proper nut already on it. Put the cut end on the faucet end and put the nut on the coupler along with the rubber washer.

                  I only have the ball sitting out right now. I was able to disassemble the faucet through shear force. Really when I got the kegerator, I took apart the faucet from the tower, the tower off the top of the kegerator, and took all the lines from the coupler and gave all that a good scrubbing. I then replaced the beer line like mentioned above and just hooked it all back together today. I haven't taken apart the coupler at all except to remove the ball at this point.

                  The speed of the foam that comes out is more of a spurt, stop then spurt type of thing right now, but that's with some air and foam coming from the beer line nut, so I think when I tighten that down, that should help immensely. I do agree about the cleaner that came with my unit, I started to use it and it just smelt like it would eat a hole through metal, so I went with nice hot soapy water and scrubbed everything like it was going in for surgery. The foam that came out and settled smells and tastes fine.

                  Thanks for the help KillianBoy. I'll see if I can get the nut secured properly and will try it again. If things don't run smooth, I'll do a little youtube video to help out.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    broli4000,
                    I, like you, have battled a used Haier, parts were abused and filthy beyond description, using soapy water probably didn't help, phosphates in soap can cause foam. Get the BLC from MM, also get 7+ feet of beer line (3/16 ID), hex nut, clamp and tailpiece. No matter what you will have to go longer. You might be under carbonating if you are getting a "spurt".
                    You not only have to take faucet off tower/shank, you have to take apart, there is nut under the handle, when removed, the rest comes apart (go to faucet section and click on replacement parts), everything needs to be cleaned with proper BLC and inspected for damage. If you "forced" faucet off, then you might have damaged the ring that tightens faucet to shank, this part requires a special "faucet wrench" I mentioned earlier, you can use an adjustable crescent wrench in meantime for the coupler but the rings NEED the special wrench, if it not leaking now, it soon will without the wrench.
                    I would go get a crescent wrench, order the parts and take off faucet, faucet needs to taken apart and cleaned, right now with hot water is fine (NO SOAP), dry and reassembled, reattach, tap, set PSI at 13-14 and let sit for 24 hours+ and and wait, while waiting, run through forum regarding v/v, temperature and balance.
                    KB

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      As you start to get into the details, Yuengling is 2.6 v/v. That may not mean anything to you now, but it should after your reading.
                      What I have: Haier two tap, 525 faucets, tower cooler, 10' lines

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                      • #12
                        I also have to add that your connections might not be tight enough, but that certainly won't prevent beer from making it to the faucet.

                        Lots and lots of photos will help. Photos of everything hooked up, a shot of the keg seal (where the coupler attaches to the keg), photo of the bottom side of the coupler, photos of the coupler fittings without the lines attached so we can see where you have check valves installed and how. Shots of the faucet, etc etc etc.

                        All this helps because at this point, assuming everything is as you say it is, it should be working. So somewhere something is being communicated.

                        You say you have an 'american sankey coupler' - have you used this coupler before with good results? Standard american beers (including Yuengling) use a D style coupler. However an S style coupler also exists, that looks very similar to a D and will fit onto a D coupler keg, however the probe length differs and can cause an issue. Posting photos can help with this as well.

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                        • #13
                          OK, after letting it sit for the past few days due to a busy schedule, it pours!!! foam..... But boy does it pour out like a champ. No sputters, and its looking good in the line with no foam at all in there. I haven't been able to tighten the nut yet (again with the busy schedule and recent knee injury), so that might not be helping anything.

                          I don't have a thermometer yet so I can't check the temp, but my PSI should be correct (Yuengling needs a 13-14 psi). I have the new 5ft beer line that I had installed last time, which also appears that it should be OK (I'll buy a 10ft later on though for the perfect pouring).

                          Here are photos of everything, let me know, but it appears that just letting it sit made a world of difference.

                          2012-08-30_17-51-09_715.jpg2012-08-30_17-52-22_713.jpg2012-08-30_17-52-44_693.jpg2012-08-30_17-52-54_673.jpg2012-08-30_17-53-50_916.jpg
                          Last edited by broli4000; 08-30-2012, 02:53 PM.

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                          • #14
                            You are missing the point of the balancing act. Yuengling doesn't need 13-14 psi unless it is between 37 and 38 degrees, and until you know the exact temp you are likely to be pouring foam especially with a 5 foot line. I'm missing what changed between the problem and now -what fixed it?
                            What I have: Haier two tap, 525 faucets, tower cooler, 10' lines

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              broli4000,
                              I have to be quick, you PSI is dependent on the temperature, no such thing as 13-14 should be fine unless you find what the temperature of your beer is, PLEASE read about v/v, balance and temperature. The main foam problem, if it looks right, is that you are missing a washer on the probe, again 2 washers on bottom of coupler,I think you are missing a main washer.
                              KB
                              Last edited by KillianBoy; 08-30-2012, 06:50 PM.

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