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  • Guinness Tapping Problem

    Hi all,

    Just bought a used BA kegerator converted for Guinness and I'm having what I'm sure is a silly, noob problem. I've looked far and wide on the interweb and haven't found anything that seems to address my problem.

    I'm unable to get the coupler to fully engage on the keg. It fits in and I'm able to rotate it so it locks in but when I try to actually tap it, it won't go down all the way and stay in. The coupler rotates freely (engaging the handle to go up and down when not attempting to tap the keg) but for some reason it won't lock onto the keg.

    The frustrating thing is if that I hold the handle down I actually get a good poor - regulator set at 30 psi, minimal foam, and a steady pour that tastes great. But clearly this isn't a solution since I have to hold the coupler handle down while pouring.

    I've put a decent amount of pressure on the handle but it just won't seem to go that last little bit to lock. I'm not sure simply pushing down with more pressure is the solution because it almost feels like it won't got any further down. Any thoughts or suggestions? What the heck am I missing here???

    Appreciate any replies...thanks.

  • #2
    roostervol,
    I'm sorry if this is a stupid question but are you either pulling out handle or squeezing handle while pushing down? If you are I sorry but have to ask, if you are, can you post picture of coupler and what experience do you have tapping and what condition unit was in and did you clean and inspect?
    KB

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    • #3
      After the question I asked, nothing is a stupid follow-up question! I feel like an idiot because I'm sure this is a "duh" moment but I thought instead of making it a "duh" week I'd just ask for someone to help with the obvious.

      The coupler is a micromatic (this model: http://www.***************.com/draft...ean/G408.shtml). I know that's a cheap out for taking a photo...any particular view/angle of the coupler that would be helpful in a photo?

      It's a squeeze handle and it goes up and down fairly easily when not attempting to tap the keg. The guy I bought the unit from bought the full conversion kit a little under two years ago and the coupler looks like new - clean, washers in very good condition, etc. I didn't take the entire set-up apart (coupler, faucet, etc.) but everything looks to be a top condition. It was supposedly cleaned before being put up for sale - I suppose I'm trusting and didn't go through the time/effort to disassemble, clean, and reassemble everything.

      My keg experience has been limited to the typical "let's get a keg and a party tap" from the local liquor store. I know everything with this system works because I get a great pour as long as I depress the coupler handle when filling a pint. It just feels like it's not quite down far enough to "lock" in and stay depressed.

      Thanks

      Comment


      • #4
        roostervol,
        Make sure the coupler locks into the keg, I THINK it like other kegs that the 2 or 3 lug wedges should go into locking ring (you might have just 1 or 2 inside), about 1/4 turn it should lock in pretty tight, if it spins in circles it's not in locking ring, your link is being censored but I get it's the standard squeeze model G408 from MM but pretty much the same as others either squeeze or pull to tap. If you still can't solve problem, it's best to post pictures of the keg nipple (where coupler goes on) and coupler itself, to see if there is any damage, you might be missing some washers or incorrect ones on coupler. But I think coupler isn't full engaged to keg.
        KB

        Comment


        • #5
          roostervol,
          Sorry about this piecemeal answers but I don't have a squeeze type coupler and trying to suss out the problem using pictures from MM store. Look at the picture and see if this part goes in and out when you squeeze handle, if it doesn't it needs to be replaced. If part works you have to explain something in your 1st post I can't
          "The coupler rotates freely (engaging the handle to go up and down when not attempting to tap the keg) but for some reason it won't lock onto the keg."
          Nothing should rotate freely, handle should go up and down but needs to be squeezed when locked and unlocked in place.
          KB
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            KB - thanks for the info. I'll have a closer look when I get home this evening and also try to get a couple of photos uploaded.

            I can't recall how many lugs there are but the coupler locks in snugly when I insert it and give a good turn. It's not loose and I'm sure that step works as it should. Maybe the photos will reveal the cause of the problem, but it's definitely due to the coupler not fully engaging with the keg. It almost seems like when I squeeze the handle to engage the keg, the coupler is too long so it won't fully depress and "lock" into the down position. But again, if I squeeze and push it down I get a connection because I can actually get beer flowing and pour a pint.

            What I meant about "the coupler rotating freely..." in my earlier quote was a poor word choice to go with rotating. When I squeeze the handle I can move it up and down. Nothing goes side-to-side and there's nothing loose with the coupler. When I attempt to lock the coupler onto the keg though, the handle will only go down roughly 2/3 to 3/4 of the way, compared to when I'm simply moving the handle up and down while not on the keg.

            Best way to think of how it looks/seems to me is that the part of the coupler that actually goes down into the keg is too long. However, otherwise everything is fine because it does go into the nipple, the keg was tapped, and I can get beer flowing to the faucet. The problem is the handle won't stay engaged in the 'down' position so if I'm not pushing it down, it won't stay engaged. I get why you posted the photo and asked if that nub on the inside of the handle is there, and I'm pretty sure it is because I do have to squeeze the handle (which pulls the nub in and allows the handle to move up and down) to get it to move up and down. We're thinking in the same area but I'm of the mind the coupler is somehow too long to lock and you seem to be thinking the handle may have an issue that's keeping it from staying locked in the down position.

            Again, thanks for the feedback and suggestions, just bouncing around ideas is helpful. I'll do some investigation and post what I find/see.

            Comment


            • #7
              roostervol,
              So when you say "freely" you mean you can move the lever up and down without squeezing the squeeze lever? Normally it's locked at both extremes, full up it should lock full down it should lock, the only way to unlock is the squeeze the lever.
              The nub is the pin that locks or unlocks the probe, the nub (pin) rides along the coupler body until it reaches the gap (B), the first one is what yours might look like the second is what other couplers look like. The nub locks into A, squeeze or pull, it retracts the pin, after pushing down passed the gap you can actually release the lever you squeezed to unlock probe. As you push down, if you look from top, between the coupler body and lever, you should see the nub ride along coupler body till it reaches B, where the nub should slide into B, locking probe in place. If you can't see the nub after going passed A or if doesn't slide into B when the lever is released, something is wrong with the squeeze lever.
              If this doesn't help, post picture of coupler bottom and side view, then maybe picture of the seal of keg from top (could be something there that shouldn't be), look through the coupler section of the store, there is an exploded view of the coupler, look to see if everything is right. There might be something between the lever and the body which is preventing the lever from going all the way down.
              If your coupler is working perfectly and nothing extra between coupler and keg seal, it might be a bad keg, but I think something is wrong with the coupler.
              KB
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #8
                I have found with these little pieces of not wanting to tap fun, just plain dirty and neeed to be rinsed also they arent going to break. You will need to put your back into it. I was shown up by the chick bartender at a mellow mushroom here. I thought i was doing something wrong and i didnt want to break it. She stood there watched me struggle with care, she came ove stood on a keg and gave herself some leverage and popped it right in place. A lot of times these things look clean but they arent. Run it under and soak it in some hot water. Screw it on that 1/3 turn then put your back it to it. Grab a rag and watch the knuckles.

                Comment


                • #9
                  KB - we have success! I think I can chalk it up to perhaps a "duh" moment after all, but that's okay if the result is positive. It appears when the handle is lowered it requires a little extra effort to get the pin to engage the handle in the 'down' position so it stays in place. Previously, when I was squeezing it to lower it down into position I was expecting it to lock but I needed to give the handle a jiggle to seat the pin. It was one of those "ah ha!" moments and it's engaged with good pressure now. Possible the handle/coupler could use some work but I'll take what I have now that everything seems to be working as intended.

                  Now of course that's a great ending, somewhat lessened by the fact that when I got home today and opened the door to begin further research and effort on the coupler I discovered the glass of water I had left in the unit to measure the temp had frozen solid. The beer in the beer line was slushy but I was able to get it flowing again. I didn't touch the thermostat from when I picked it up and thought it strange that the compressor seemed to be running a lot yesterday. Now I know why...I quickly dialed the thermostat down about a notch and a half and have already noticed a much quieter unit due to the compressor taking a break. I think the extra cold is also causing a bit more foam than I'd like but I can work with that as I get the temp dialed in and also may need to make a minor tweak or two to the regulator pressure. I'll check the temp in the morning and try to get it dialed in perfectly in the day or so.

                  Needless to say, the first effort has been met with lots of trial and error but it seems we're slowly getting on the proper path. I really appreciate your patience and feedback as I worked through the coupler issues. Thanks for offering a hand to the new guy! A pint of Guinness awaits if you're ever in the neighborhood.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    roostervol,
                    Good to hear, I don't know what the previous poster was aiming at but DON'T force anything. If you have to jiggle, then something is wrong, but as long as the pin is in, it should be held in by friction till end of keg. I would turn thermostat a bit warmer (5-7, I think is norm for a Bev-Air).
                    Before the keg kicks I'd replace the beer line if you haven't already, look at the exploded views of both the faucet and coupler, when kegs kicks take both apart and clean with BLC, I would replace as many washers and you can, when you order the beer line, get the replacement washers and some Pump and Probe lubricant. The main part I'd look at is the lever, I'd try and disassemble and see what's going on inside, I have a feeling a spring is broke or pin is misaligned by somebody forcing it.
                    KB

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