Gone through 2 co2 tanks on my first system

[freddybrown]

Got a kit and converted an old mini fridge with a top mount. Set it up and had a 1/6 barrel of Wach Summer and after a day and a half, the co2 tank was empty and my keg was subsequently toast since it was sunday and I couldn't get a new tank until after work Monday

Same thing happened on my second tank (tested it on the skunked keg so that I didn't lose two). I now have a third tank and through a soapy water test, found that there is a hole that leaks air in the front to the right of the psi regulator. The hole looks ******* made and I questioned it when i received it, but assumed it was normal.

I'm wondering, are there usually holes there? Have I done something wrong and that is why it is pushing air out? Or should I contact the company and try and get it replaced.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Fred

[Sketch]

A picture would be helpful - there are many brands/types of regulators and they are all a little different. However, you should not be leaking so that is not normal - I would do just as you are and contact the company you purchased it from - especially since it is new.

However, why do you think your keg is now bad? Just because you run out Co2 does not mean your keg goes bad - you can leave a keg disconnected from Co2 for the life of the beer and be just fine.

[freddybrown]

I'm not sure I attached the pic I took with my phone correctly. It was a micromatic set up I think, from kegerator.com.

Anyways, when I hooked the second CO2 up, the beer came out pretty cloudy. I'm not sure why, but It tasted a little off too.

[Piper]

It's normal for that hole to be there, but it's a bad sign if it's leaking. You definitely have a loose connection or leak somewhere. Pure CO2 5 lb. tanks I think should yield at least 5-7 kegs. If you need to buy a new one, buy one of these:

Beer Regulator - Double Gauge - CO2 Primary - Premium Series

Good luck finding that leak. Make sure to check the line all the way to the keg coupler before you buy anything. Since you already see a leak in the reg, see if you can't find one on the gas line or on the connection to the coupler. In the meantime, until your leak is fixed, turn on your cylinder to pour brews and then turn it off after pouring. It's a pain, but it will save you from refilling your tank every two days until you figure out where your leak is coming from. Cheers.

[KillianBoy]

freddybrown,
First thing Sketch is right, beer don't go bad if you run out of CO2, just get new CO2 and your good, if beer is "skunked" are you sure your conversion is keeping beer cold enough? Then go to Piper's posts and read how he solved his problems. Then post HOW you tested with soapy water (spray bottle, direct application or submersion), if first 2 then the hole shouldn't be causing bubbles if third then this might be cause of cloudy beer. If you did submerse tank and regulator, did you keep tank upright?, this also might be cause of bubbles (air trapped in regulator can cause escaping bubbles), by running CO2 from tank on side can damage regulator and be very dangerous. If you didn't submerse then can you post if tank is new, used or something else, also where you got CO2 (welding shop, paintball store or other), size of tank, etc, also if tank is used when and where the tank was cleaned and/or hydro tested. Did you use a hand pump after CO2 ran out? This can cause skunky and cloudy beer (adding air to keg can make beer go bad). The more information you provide the easier it will be for members to help, pictures of everything (inside unit, tank) would be helpful.
KB

[cubby_swans]

tested it on the skunked keg so that I didn't lose two

if beer is "skunked" are you sure your conversion is keeping beer cold enough? ..... Did you use a hand pump after CO2 ran out? This can cause skunky ... beer

It is impossible that this keg is skunked. "skunking" of a beer is a chemical process that happens when the beer is exposed to light that converts hop chemicals to the same chemical a skunk sprays. It has nothing to do with warm/cold/co2/anything that is not light. It is not possible for light to penetrate a keg and skunk a beer. Bacteria in a beer will cause it to go sour, but not skunked.

I will agree that running out of co2 does not cause your beer to go bad. It's probable that it is now undercarbed, which will cause the beer to taste a bit different. Putting it back on co2 and leaving it sit for a few days to recarbonate and it will be fine.

As far as being cloudy, what kind of beer is "Wach Summer"? I can't find it on Google, Beer Advocate, or Rate Beer. The closest guess I have is Wachusett Summer, which is a wheat ale. Wheat beers are usually cloudy, and kegged wheat beers settle, and will pour clear. If the keg is agitated, the wheat will suspend in the beer, making it cloudy. This is normal.

[Scott Zuhse]

Got a kit and converted an old mini fridge with a top mount. Set it up and had a 1/6 barrel of Wach Summer and after a day and a half, the co2 tank was empty and my keg was subsequently toast since it was sunday and I couldn't get a new tank until after work Monday

Same thing happened on my second tank (tested it on the skunked keg so that I didn't lose two). I now have a third tank and through a soapy water test, found that there is a hole that leaks air in the front to the right of the psi regulator. The hole looks ******* made and I questioned it when i received it, but assumed it was normal.

I'm wondering, are there usually holes there? Have I done something wrong and that is why it is pushing air out? Or should I contact the company and try and get it replaced.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Fred

The hole is suppose to be there. It will vent the low pressure side once the adjustment is backed out all the way. If gas leaks when the regulator has been adjusted, then there is a leak internally. This could be the diaphragm (#9) or seat assembly (#10).

Using a channel lock, remove the cover (#4) being certain you remember the sequence of internal components. Review thumbnail below. The seat assembly will have two flat sides. Using a pliers, remove (including small spring - #11) the seat and inspect opening for any debris such as Teflon tape. Replace spring and thread the seat back into the regulator body. Do not over tighten as this is brass.

Inspect the diaphragm for any damage or wear and replace if necessary. There should only be one hole that is in the center. Reassemble regulator components and perform leak test.

[MicrosoulV3]

Untitled-1.jpg Old thread, but wanted to add some info. If your micromatic premium regulator is leaking from the little hole in the front, take it apart all the way down to the brass plunger thing with the blue tip, its the second to the last part, the last part being the small spring behind it. Take that blue gasket out and flip it over. Put it back together. You can also replace the black rubber O-ring if it looks rough, just get a new one at NAPA or some place like that. Another note, you dont need to heavily wrench the bonnet down. snug is just fine, dont go all hulk on it. no need for thread tape either. Leak should be gone. I was here looking for a solution but didnt find one, so I just worked it out on my own