Air Pockets in the beer line causing excess foam

[jmac82]

Information:

Keg: 1/4 Barrel of Yueungling

Inside Water Temp from Glass: 34 degrees

Beer is around 38-40 Degrees (1st pour is a degree or so warmer, 2nd pour which is from the keg is ice cold)

PSI - 14

I have around 10' of 3/16" (Inside Diameter) tubing.

*Tower Cooler is installed*

I have the PSI at around 13-14 and it pours at a solid rate. My only problem seems to be the air pockets in the beer line. I have some near the keg coupler and others throughout the 10' Beer line.

To no surprise when I pour and it hits a beer pocket it "burps" and causes a lot of foam (head). What can I do to eliminate these air pockets in my beer line.

Photos Attached.

[happytappy]

10 foot of 3/16 is too long, start at 8 foot and trim is pour stil is too slow, burps

[jmac82]

Update

PSI is currently at 14.

I was told before by many users to upgrade from my 5' to 8-10'. I upgraded to 10 (which I have now as stated) and have a good pour speed.

My 1st pour of the day is reading at 44-45 degrees (which is the beer in the line with the air pockets).

My 2nd pour goes to 37-38 degrees.

What changes / modifications do you recommend I do to get rid of the air pockets and get good solid pours time after time?

My kegerator is very cold on the inside. Its set near the maximum level of coldness.

Update *thermometer was calibrated in ice water to 32 degrees*:

1st pour (beer from the lines) is 44 Degrees.
2nd pour right after is 37.5 - 38 Degrees (Desired temp).

Thanks for your help.

[blackls1ttop]

i have not entirely figured out what my problem is but i was using a crappy bann er american sankey coupler, i went thorugh 3 kegs trying to figure out this damm air in my beer line issue. im running a 10" beer line, recently i installed a circulation fan inside pointed towards the cooling plate and i got a new euro coupler from micro matic, i got a 1/2 heineken keg and now my problem is gone, (i had the psi's set correctly for the previous kegs) i dont get any air bubbles now, i think i get too little foam actually. im guessing maybe my problem was the coupler? again im not sure.

[scriptohio]

My first suggestion would be to examine the beer line from coupler to faucet.
1. Do you have clamps on the coupler beer line tailpiece connection and the shank beer line connection? Your picture does not show a clamp on the coupler connection.
2. Is there a neoprene washer in the coupler beer line connection?

All of the above could cause beer line bubbles.

The coupler: are all the proper o rings and gaskets in place on the coupler? Worn or damaged neoprene or vinyl parts on the coupler could potentially cause the problem. I don’t think it is the brand of coupler that is a problem. You may need to get a rebuild kit from the company for the coupler if it is an old unit that would cost about $9.00.

[Scott Zuhse]

i have not entirely figured out what my problem is but i was using a crappy bann er american sankey coupler, i went thorugh 3 kegs trying to figure out this damm air in my beer line issue. im running a 10" beer line, recently i installed a circulation fan inside pointed towards the cooling plate and i got a new euro coupler from micro matic, i got a 1/2 heineken keg and now my problem is gone, (i had the psi's set correctly for the previous kegs) i dont get any air bubbles now, i think i get too little foam actually. im guessing maybe my problem was the coupler? again im not sure.

Too little foam is due to your flow rate being too slow. Cut the line back in increments of four to six inches until your flow speed is quicker but you are still able to handle the speed when dispensing.

[xscash]

i recently i installed a circulation fan inside pointed towards the cooling plate .

to cool the tower the fan should be pointed up the tower to circulate the air around the lines and faucet

[blackls1ttop]

i have a copper pipe around the line up in the tower sticking into the fridge and it does a well job, the fan is blowing the cold air down towards the bottom of the keg.

[blackls1ttop]

thanks Scott i will give that a try

[cubby_swans]

Your tower cooler should be a fan blowing air through a hose. The hose should be run up the tower, so that the cold air is blowing basically at the base of the shank. I guess if you're getting consistent pour temps, then don't fix what isn't broke. But I wouldn't recommend the copper pipe method.

[blackls1ttop]

my original plan was to install 2 fans, 1 of them a regular sized computer fan to circulate and not let the cooling plate freeze up and the 2nd a smaller fan to force the cold air into the tower. The tower cooling set up was not done in time and i could not stand not having a keg of beer so i just made the circulation fan work until next keg. The circulation fan made the biggest differance, it only took a couple hours for the keg to reach 38 degrees, before it would take atleast 24 hours, i even had to recalibrate the units thermostat because i had it on the warmest setting and it was still too cold. I got all the tower cooling parts now, maybe i can put them in before i pick up my next keg.

[miller lite man]

My guess is you might have done what I did by tapping the keg with the co2 on.