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  • foam no matter what

    My first kegerator (used). Giving my tons of trouble. My altitude is 946 feet, I tried using 3 ft, 5.5 ft, and 10 ft beer lines which all had 1/4" ID. I've tried an array of pressures from .5psi to 14 psi and nothing seems to work. .5psi comes out foamy, and as I increase the pressure (it should reduce the foam) but it doesn't, and at 14 psi it comes out like a fire hose. I've cleaned the faucet, changed the lines, and I don't know if the problem is just an old faucet, and old coupler, or bad connections. I've tried running it at 38 degrees, and now it's around 32 degrees and foam no matter what.
    Visually I can see one or two small air pockets in the line with a very small amount of foam. When I start the pour, it has a lag, then the beer comes out (between 25% and 95% foam), then an air pocket hits squirting beer everywhere. More beer/foam, then another air pocket will hit squirting beer again.
    Is it just bad pressure, bad coupler, bad faucet?
    I do have a cooled tower too. Everything seems tight enough. I can't figure it out. I love beer, but this is making me want to switch back to cans.

    Thanks in advance beer experts.

  • #2
    First of all, quit adjusting the pressure and temperature, without knowing how to balance your system you are just going to aggravate the keg which will just give you all kinds of headaches.

    A good place to start is with your beerline, it is way too big. You need to be dispensing with 3/16" ID, 1/4 should only be used in long run applications. A minimum of 5' is a good place to start, many members run between 5' and 10' based on desired flow rate.
    Also, be sure you are using foodsafe tubing, the stuff you get at home improvement stores will impart off tastes and chemicals into your beer (and into you).

    After that, please understand that balancing a system is not a guessing game, it is an exact science. You have to know your beer temp, and the volumes of Co2 your beer is kegged at, after knowing those two things then you can adjust PSI and pour a proper beer. The internal temp of the unit is not important, the temp that registers on the display is not important.

    The ONLY temp that matters is your beer temp, and there is only one way to get this.

    Take a room temp glass to the faucet
    Pour a beer into glass
    Drink quickly, or transfer to another glass to drink later.
    Pour a second beer into the SAME glass as the first beer.
    Take the temp of that beer with a CALIBRATED thermometer.

    The temp that the thermometer reads from that glass is the temperature of the beer in the keg.
    This is the only temp that will help you in balancing your system.

    I would suggest uncoupling the keg until you get proper beer line, after that you you should be able to pour a pint with minimal foam and be able to take the beers temp. Once you have the EXACT temperature, then you can set the proper PSI.

    What beer are you pouring?
    Last edited by Sketch; 09-10-2010, 02:48 PM.

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    • #3
      zas,
      1/4 ID is too big, you need 3/16 ID food grade line, start with 8 feet, purge CO2 from keg using pressure relief valve on coupler, after connecting new correct line apply 12PSI and let stand overnight (24 hours or more would be better), then answer these questions:
      Kind and type of kegerator
      Type of beer
      Did you DISASSEMBLE faucet?
      After waiting, check ACTUAL TEMPERATURE of beer, it sounds like you have a Danby, display is worthless.
      KB

      Sorry for the rehash, Sketch you just too fast in responding

      Comment


      • #4
        Sorry for the rehash, Sketch your just too fast in responding[/QUOTE]

        I wouldn't think an apology necessary since these basic starting blocks seem to get repeated over and over again before new people can get a clear understanding that there is no magic bullet, no hidden foam on/off switch on the back of their unit. There is a bullet but it ain't magic, it is pure science, and you both locked and loaded then shot that bullet at about the same time hitting the target.


        [Flash back to when I started] Reasoning: PROS = 1/2 barrels yield cheaper per oz. beer than cans and bottles. Tap beer is tastier. Kegoraters are COOL, impress yourself and friends. CONS = are you kidding there can't be any. That was the limit of my understanding and it was my fault since I didn't do any research or found this great site yet, but why would I right? Cause like they said in that movie "Fields of Dreams", Build it and they will come. Buy the unit slap a keg in there and perfect beers should flow from the rocks. That I truly believed until I put it to the test. Balanced system, temp. Psi. elev., tower cooling, interior fan, longer hose to slow flow? If I knew that going in I might not have done it. Turns out all these things are pretty easy and cheap if tackled in the right order. So now with a balanced system and perfect pours I'm glad I didn't know enough going in to question what I was getting into but then again if I did know I would have said well that's nothing I can't do and doesn't cost much either. Only took me 3 months but hey I'm a slow learner and hate to ask for advice, found this site in the last month of those 3 months and although I didn't ask for advise just lurked and read I did learn what would correct the imbalance, not as quick as if I would have had I asked and listen to whose willing to help and answered what they ask of me even though I didn't understand why they asked what may have seemed to my limited understanding as off the point. Just tell me where what switch is to shut off the foam and quit going out about beer temp and that 2nd pour Jazz. Ha I was a babe in the woods.



        So this dated analogy of course isn't for your two's benefit but for those seeking to understand that there is a clear method, in fact only one method to achieve the success they thought they would get when they got their kegorater. In the old days when you could still do a tune-up on your car because it had points and a carburetor you had to do it in steps. You gapped the points first to set the dwell angle and once done correctly that allowed you to then set the timing. But if the dwell wasn't set correctly first, you couldn't correctly set the timing. If step one: dwell was done correctly allowing you to correctly set step 2: timing then and only then could you complete the tune-up and adjust the high and low screws on the carb. These steps had to be preformed in order. Do them out of order since one step affects the following steps and you car would run rougher than before if it ran at all. No different here, there are steps that must be done in order, beer temp, and (not air inside or water in a glass inside or a faulty but cool digital readout on front)true beer temp. will always be the first step. When comes, what are you working with, and that's a 2 prong question, 1)beer in the keg and 2)unit you have. From these things the perfect pour is built. Answer the question your mentor asks as best you can and if you don't get why he asked you say so and likely it will be revealed. You've got to help the people trying to help you, and their doing it for free. By free I mean they are not getting paid just willing to share and help and you're not paying for the solution should you understand and employ it.


        I know this kinda of post has been done before but I won't apology either.

        Comment


        • #5
          As pointed out, get a handle on what your temperature is.

          Set the pressure accordingly. http://www.zahmnagel.com/LinkClick.a...ow%3D&tabid=77

          Get proper beer line.

          And in addition to cleaning the faucet, clean the coupler and make sure the skirt washer is in good condition. I think too many people overlook cleaning the coupler. A lot of nasty grows inside of them if given the chance.
          Malt is the soul of beer... and yeast gives it life..
          but the kiss of the hop is the vitality of that life!

          My three favorite beers: The one I just had, the one I'm drinking now and the next one I'll have.

          http://kegerator-social-network.micr...bygrouptherapy

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          • #6
            Did you know that air or really Co2 pockets in beer line likely means Co2 is set too low? But as Psychodad, KillanBoy and Stretch points out PSI can't be addressed yet till you get a true beer in keg temp. and tell the beer you're trying to pour. Knowledge of what unit you're using maybe a shortcut to knowing the inherent faults of that unit but in any unit temp. will allow you to set proper Psi pressure and that's your first order of business. Find true temp. of beer, read 'before you post" or search calibrated thermometer or ask that the heck or you talking about it sounds greek to me. It might not make sense now but if you post beer temp and kind of beer now it will get you where you want to be faster.
            Last edited by pvs6; 09-10-2010, 06:41 PM. Reason: heck because I could

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            • #7
              Miller lite. Where can I get cheap, food grade, 3/16" line? And what do I for an adapter??

              Comment


              • #8
                Zas,
                Answering some of our questions is fine but if questions need to be asked again then this will take a lot longer, don't know if you need any type of adapter unless you post brand and model of kegerator you have, and now what other modifications you made if this is a used unit, post as much information you can regarding this unit, pictures might help. If this is a standard unit, 3/16 line should fit of tailpieces and shanks that fit 1/4 beer line (dip end in hot water to soften), but unknown if you need an adapter until you post brand of unit, modifications you may have made or ones previous owner made. Beer line can be had here on the site, any home brew store or place you picked up 1/4 line. If you have questions on how parts will properly work with new line, post pictures of shank and coupler, this might give members a better idea how to solve your problems.
                KB
                Last edited by KillianBoy; 09-11-2010, 03:12 PM.

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                • #9
                  I am having the exact same problem with the 75% foam everytime. I really should have joined these forums before thinking I could just "plug and play" with my kegerator.

                  Not trying to hijack the thread but I am going to get some help in this same thread as well.

                  1. I have not gauged the temp of my beer (I will do that tonight)
                  2. I purchased a used full size fridge kegerator.
                  3. I do have a 5' 3/16" dispensing line.

                  I am pouring Yazoo Sly Rye Porter it's a 1/6th barrel. (Don't know if that matters)

                  What other info should I list?

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                  • #10
                    It's a 'beverage-air' kegerator, and as far as I can tell, no modifications have been made that I know of. I just purchased the 3/16" 5' line, I'll see where that takes me. I think I found a thread that says Miller Lite is supposed to have 2.6 volume co2 or something like that.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      zas,
                      So with Bev-Air you have a pretty decent unit, but as everyone asked, what is the temperature of your beer, you posted:
                      I've tried running it at 38 degrees, and now it's around 32 degrees and foam no matter what.
                      Don't understand what your saying with this, did you adjust thermostat to the max to get the 32 degrees or your measuring temperature some other way, need to clarify how these temperatures were taken. With v/v volume at 2.6, doesn't mean much without THE ACTUAL TEMPERATURE OF THE BEER, I really hope that's clear. And also did you clean all parts with Beer Line Cleaner? or just rinsed off, used gear needs to be disassembled and inspected for damage and worn washers.
                      KB

                      And to Yazworm91, yes it's a hijack, get the volume of CO2 for Yazoo Sly Rye Porter, and do same as told to zas, and post your own post if you have problems.

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                      • #12
                        that's not the beer temperature, just the temperature of the inside of the fridge. i'm replacing the lines now, and i did take the spout off, dissembled it and cleaned it pretty good. will post temp of beer once the new lines come in and i get a new keg.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          next keg we are going to try is shiner. still the same psi?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            zas,
                            Sure if the v/v of the shiner is 2.6, but still don't know what same PSI is if you don't post the ACTUAL TEMPERATURE of the beer, honestly get Miller Lite dialed in even if you have get another keg of it, by changing beer before you solve your foam problems might cause more problems. If you do get shiner make sure you find the v/v of CO2 for that brewery then temperature then set PSI, gee I feel like I've said this before.
                            KB

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                            • #15
                              I am having issues with my kegerator at home. I have a session IPA set to 14 psi with 10' of 3/16 hose. I have checked and there are no leaks. I have a fan circulating air inside my freezer (everything is contained inside my freezer until the shank and faucet). The second glass of beer is measuring 36F with a calibrated thermometer. All I get is foam....75% foam and I cannot figure it out. I have nearly gone through a 1/6 barrel just making the adjustments to get to where I am now, and still no improvement. Any help would be appreciated.

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