1988 perlick

[salbo]

Finally got this unit and the guy gave me new lines and coupler, (He's in the beer business) He cut me about 3' of beer line, I brought home set it to 11psi and it poured like a champ. I have since replaced the original perlick tower, which had a metal shank that extended down into the unit, with a dual tower which has 5' hoses which run directly to the faucet. Since I made this change I have more foam than with the 3' of hose. The beer has been 38F on the first pour thoughout, with both towers. I have done the flashlight test and see no bubbles in the line, no kinked lines, and running the same pressure as before. (bud lite and troges pale ale) both taps are the same amount of foam, bout 2". The other variable is with this new tower I can't line the internal baffle (plate) up to take full advantage of the air flow to the tower. With two shanks I can't put it in straight, still have flow but not as much as with the original perlick tower. Any ideas on these two issues? Thanks guys.

[TomK]

The pressure should be a little higher (13-14 @ sea level) for Bud Light at 38deg. Did your old keg taste a little flatter than the new one? That might explain why it poured better at the same pressure with a shorter line.

[salbo]

thanks tom I'll kick it up a notch..but no, didn't notice any difference. Now we're only talking about sixtels, in my house that's a week tops...lol!

[psychodad]

The other variable is with this new tower I can't line the internal baffle (plate) up to take full advantage of the air flow to the tower.

That's what I'd start looking into.

[salbo]

if the shorter line worked, why is it so important to have at least a 5' line. If you have to adjust the pressure down a hair to have a shorter line, will the beer go flat? Having 10' of beer line (2x5') and my co2 lines do make it a bit tight. Is it REALLy necessary?

[psychodad]

The line length is important for flow restriction. The original 3 feet of line plus the metal line that came down the tower likely gave you the restriction you needed.

Lowering your psi to control dispense will make the beer go flat.

Look into how well the tower was cooled before in comparison to how it is now and I think you will find your issue.

[TomK]

if the shorter line worked, why is it so important to have at least a 5' line. If you have to adjust the pressure down a hair to have a shorter line, will the beer go flat? Having 10' of beer line (2x5') and my co2 lines do make it a bit tight. Is it REALLy necessary?

If you haven't already, take a look at this article on balancing the system.

[pvs6]

Hello Salbo,
Sorry to hear you're having foam issues, hope you can get it corrected soon. In your post you said you couldn't get the baffle back in straight and also spoke of a metal shank from the tower in to the keg. I'm not sure what you are describing but assume the baffle and shank are the samething. My tower doesn't have anything remotely like that so may I ask you want it is and what purpose is it for? If you could get a picture of it and post it that would really be neat. I've heard of people getting copper tube and run their beer line in it up to the tower and having it run 3-4 inchs. in to the unit to help keep the line cold from conduction of the copper tube. Is that the purpose of the shank/baffle? Am I understanding correctly that the baffle came from the old perlick tower and you are try to retro install that into your new dual tower? Also you said you couldn't get it position just right to take advantage of the air flow. What kind of air flow do you mean? Do you have a cooling tower fan? Or are you relying on passive cooling through conduction with a metal baffle?

[salbo]

thanks guys for your help....`

not computer literate enough to post a picture yet but... this unit has a built in blower which extends across the top of the unit. On the right side, (where the tower is located) there is a shelf with a lip right under 1/2 of the tower opening. In the original tower there is a (removable) thin piece of metal extending from this lip upward into the tower at a 90 deg. angle, which forced the air up one side and down the other. Also, the (beer) hose was connected to the tower/faucet via a metal tube which extended down inside the unit about 3". When I installed the new tower, both hoses run the length of the tower connecting to the shank directly behind the faucet, with no metal tube. With two shanks/hoses inside this tower I can't place this thin (baffle) at a 90 degree angle as it was originally, it is more of a 45. Beer (1st pour) is still at 38, but tower temp is closer to 50. I may have to try to turn the tower a 1/4 turn to line up this baffle. Another poster on here named woody has the same unit and has same external pics on a few of his posts. thanks again guys!!! Oh by the way....enjoying some Sam Adams Octoberfest and Bud Light Golden Wheat right now..these sixtels are dropping like flies..LOL!

[salbo]

tom k and psycho...

I read that article tom and it mentions what psychodad said...referring to the metal tube that either extended from the shank or is the shank itself. What is it's function? Is it unusual to have one like that? Do most towers just have the beer hose running the length of it like my new one? I figured it's function was to keep the beer colder in the line, but maybe it did play a part in reducing foam on the pressure side. Can these be added? It may give me more room in the tower to position that baffle. The tower that had the metal tube is the original '88 perlick tower. Do they still make anything like it? Thank pvs6 for your help too!

[psychodad]

I'd think that you would be fine just ducting cold air up to the ends of the shank in the top of the tower and not worrying about making the baffle functional again. Search around the board for tower cooling. There are several posts with pictures.

[salbo]

won't I need that baffle to separate the inflow from the outflow to the tower? Are you saying to just "hose it" upward and the rest will take care of itself? Again i'm getting 38f on my first pour......the tower is cold to the touch, but I'm definately not getting the flow I was. What about that extended piece of metal that ran into the unit on the previous tower was that helping me?

[TomK]

I also have a 1/4" SS tailpiece in my tower that has a threaded nipple on the end for the beer line connection. Sure makes changing out the beer line easier and it takes up less room in the tower, as you said. Other than that, I don't know how much of an advantage it is for cooling the beer in the tower. Once the tubing, whether vinyl or metal, reaches the temperature of the tower air, it seems like it would be a wash to me.

[psychodad]

Are you saying to just "hose it" upward and the rest will take care of itself?

Yes. If the cold air duct discharges right below your faucets, the air will return out the bottom cooling the entire tower.

[Scott Zuhse]

The baffle has to be in line with the tray to allow for the cold air to route up one side of the tower and down the other. Either turn the shanks and reposition the faucets or shorten the baffle enough to allow it to sit on the tray.