Yet another Danby problem

[cwhitfield]

Tried searching forum for my issue, but couldn't find anything quite the same.

I have a Danby DKC645 keg fridge that's a whole 4 months out of warranty - go figure. Anyway, through the awesome info on this site, I've done the resistor mod, added tower cooling, & got rid of a coupler check ball that left a nasty taste in the beer.

My current problem is that the fridge won't stay running. No error codes on the display & temperature shown is accurate. It's almost like it just won't turn the compressor on. Yet, if I unplug it for 15-20 minutes & plug back in, it cools down like it's supposed to. Then anywhere from 30 minutes to a couple hours, it just quits cooling again & you see the temp rise. Unplug it for 20 minutes, plug back in & let it cool for awhile. Did this over & over for a few days because I couldn't bear to throw out almost 1/2 of a 15gal keg.

Can I just get a BE Temp controller, or do you think there's more to the problem & I'm just SOL? If SOL, is it worth paying for repair or just find a freezer I can convert?

I was originally going to wait until next year, buy the wife a new fridge & convert the one we have now, but I don't know if I can wait. Canned/bottled beer just isn't the same.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Chris

[psychodad]

There are likely two things that could possibley be happening.

One is the Danby control board is malfunctioning and turning th defrost cycle on too often or just simply not turning on the compressor.

The other is the compressor is overheating and the thermal overload is tripping.

If it is the former a Brewer's Edge is what you need. If it is the latter, you have a more serious issue.

[cwhitfield]

Thanks for the reply. One more question, if I may. Installing a temp controller won't bypass the thermal overload protector, will it? I'm thinking I may go ahead and try a temp controller, but want to make sure that if the compressor is overheating, I'll still have the thermal overload protection.

I figure there's nothing to lose by trying the controller. If the thermal protector keeps tripping, I can at least reuse the controller if I end up converting an old freezer.

Thanks again for your help.

Chris

[Jack Manstroke]

If I am reading the schematic correctly you are splicing the wire before the overload protector so it should still work, unless of course the overload protector is controlled by the controll board.

I say get the controller anyway, if the compressor overheats try to get your keg to 38 degrees it is probably shot anyway, and like you said you can take the new controller to your next project if you need to.

I put a temp controller on my danby and so far so good.

[psychodad]

If you wire it correctly, the overload should still work. At no time should you ever bypass the thermal overload. A burning house or apartment will cause more than dispense issues.

[cwhitfield]

Thanks guys. I definitely don't want any safety issues, which is why I was asking if the protector would still be in play.

I think I'll go ahead and order the controller. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

Thanks.
Chris

[cwhitfield]

So far, so good...

Hooked up the BE last night. It's gone over 24 hours now with no more than a 5 degree differential. We may be back in the game!!

Thanks for your help.
Chris

[cwhitfield]

The kegerator lives...

It's been a week now with no temperature issues

Just tapped a fresh keg of Boulevard Wheat... keg beer rules!!

Thanks for your advice guys!!!
Chris