CO2 Tank is Empty!!!

[smores]

Hey guys... Ok, I've had my Kegerator set up for a week. It was running fine but over the past few days I noticed the beer wasn't coming out as fizzy. Tonight I go to pour it and it was pouring REALLY slowly...

So I open the door of the fridge and see the PSI is at 0 and the gas level meter was all the way to the left (in the red).

I checked the main tank valve, it was open all the way. Do you think I might have a faulty regulator? How would I diagnose a leak? I guess the same way you'd diagnose a tire leak? Put soapy water around all the connections and look for bubbles?

When I did the install, I had posted about using a fiber washer with a tank with the quad-ring seal already installed in the fitting that connects to the CO2 tank. I did install the fiber washer... guess next time I'll just leave it out!

I guess I need to get a new tank tomorrow...

[BrewGuru]

smores,

As mentioned in the other thread by Scott, the "Quad Ring" seals can be quite effective if used properly.

You should only have one or the other, not both - the fiber / nylon washers are meant to seal between two metal surfaces. The combination of the fiber washer and the quad ring seal probably lead to leaks at the tank connection.

However, you should still check your entire system over to make sure you aren't leaking elsewhere, are all your connections properly secured with stepless Oetiker clamps or equivalent? The soapy water method is exactly how frustrating leaks can be diagnosed!

Good luck.

[smores]

smores,

As mentioned in the other thread by Scott, the "Quad Ring" seals can be quite effective if used properly.

You should only have one or the other, not both - the fiber / nylon washers are meant to seal between two metal surfaces. The combination of the fiber washer and the quad ring seal probably lead to leaks at the tank connection.

However, you should still check your entire system over to make sure you aren't leaking elsewhere, are all your connections properly secured with stepless Oetiker clamps or equivalent? The soapy water method is exactly how frustrating leaks can be diagnosed!

Good luck.

Yes everything was secured with hose clamps, and the beer line couplings and regulator were all tightened with a wrench.

One question, is how do I go about changing the CO2 tank. I guess it would be sort of the opposite of tapping the keg?

1 - Close regulator shutoff valve
2 - Close main valve on CO2 tank
3 - "Untap" keg/move red Sankey coupler handle up
4 - Remove regulator from CO2 tank

Is this the correct procedure?

[40percentrobot]

When I first got my kegerator, I ran out of gas in 3 days. Turns out that the regulator was a bit too gingerly attached to the tank. Now I use teflon tape on the tank threads and seat the regulator securely.

That being said, when changing CO2, I do this:

shut off the CO2 tank at main valve
flip the regulator valve to 'off'
remove regulator assembly from tank

I leave the keg tapped at the coupler - I don't want to 'break the seal,' as it were, unnecessarily. I figure if the regulator valve is closed, nothing can escape in the time it takes me to get more gas.

This is merely what I do. Anyone else have advice?

[smores]

When I first got my kegerator, I ran out of gas in 3 days. Turns out that the regulator was a bit too gingerly attached to the tank. Now I use teflon tape on the tank threads and seat the regulator securely.

That being said, when changing CO2, I do this:

shut off the CO2 tank at main valve
flip the regulator valve to 'off'
remove regulator assembly from tank

I leave the keg tapped at the coupler - I don't want to 'break the seal,' as it were, unnecessarily. I figure if the regulator valve is closed, nothing can escape in the time it takes me to get more gas.

This is merely what I do. Anyone else have advice?

Ok... makes sense. I forgot the coupler has a valve to prevent back-flow to the tank. I'll just leave the regulator attached with the valve closed.

Thanks for the help.

[edramshaw]

You could also check where the gas goes into the coupler. There is a rubber washer that gets left out sometimes and causes a leak. You could do a search for leak testing on this forum and find step by step instructions on how to use the regulators high pressure gauge to determine if you have any leaks.

[psychodad]

While teflon tape sounds like a good idea, such tape is intended to seal pipe threads. If you have to use it to seal a mechanical seal such as is found on a regulator, you have only done a temporary repair and could have more trouble in the future.

[BrewGuru]

That's right, as long as your backflow prevention seal is in place, no worries about un-tapping the keg, though you can do this all day long and the only 'problem' may be a small spurt of foam from the possible disturbance in the line.

While teflon tape sounds like a good idea, such tape is intended to seal pipe threads. If you have to use it to seal a mechanical seal such as is found on a regulator, you have only done a temporary repair and could have more trouble in the future.

pyschodad is absolutely correct here, teflon tape is only for use on what are known as 'tapered' threads, found on lots of pipe and plumbing.

One should NEVER use teflon tape on 'parallel' threads such as those found on compressed gas regulators, this will cause the threads to bind and may render what should be providing the seal (fiber/nylon washer, or quad ring) ineffective. These types of threads are just intended to provide pressure against the sealing surfaces and never completely mate.

[THE ICEMAN]

One should NEVER use teflon tape on 'parallel' threads such as those found on compressed gas regulators, this will cause the threads to bind and may render what should be providing the seal (fiber/nylon washer, or quad ring) ineffective. These types of threads are just intended to provide pressure against the sealing surfaces and never completely mate.

A minor point here but Teflon is known to be the slipperiest stuff around so I find it difficult to believe that it would cause threads to 'bind'. In fact I use it quite often to keep threads from binding. No offense BG.

[psychodad]

I think binding issues one would have from teflon tape come from using too much of it. Teflon tape is one of those "just a dab will do ya" things.

[smores]

Thanks for the help guys. I'll do a search on leak testing. My shop gets aluminum CO2 tanks in tomorrow, might have to wait until then unless I can locate somewhere that can fill it while I wait.

[jlopez77]

Thanks for the help guys. I'll do a search on leak testing. My shop gets aluminum CO2 tanks in tomorrow, might have to wait until then unless I can locate somewhere that can fill it while I wait.

If you have a brand new tank, I would find somewhere that will fill it. I don't like the idea of trading a brand new tank for a used one.

[Scott Zuhse]

Always conduct a leak test after changing cylinders. You will sleep well at night.

[smores]

If you have a brand new tank, I would find somewhere that will fill it. I don't like the idea of trading a brand new tank for a used one.

Too late, already traded my shiny new one in when I first got my kit. The place I get them from has newish Aluminum tanks in good condition. All the places I've called that fill while you wait around here charge at least $25, I can exchange it for $20.

I got the new tank and hooked it up yesterday. The high-pressure gauge was reading at ~500 PSI (temp in the fridge was around 38-40 what with opening the door a lot when I was messing with it). I turned the master valve off to see if the pressure would drop, and after 30 minutes it remained constant. I will have to check it when I get home.

However, the beer is pouring 80% foam and seems to be flat now Don't know if there's any way to fix that... guess I'll start a new thread to address that if it's not working properly by the time I get home.

[bonefish]

It's probably

temperature related now.
SEAN