Foam for years - need a plan to correct it.

[hvhunter]

After moving the line down to the bottom of the fridge, inspecting for any sharp edges, I'm still foaming like crazy. This has been really frustrating to say the least. Checked the beer temp last night, 36F on the second pour.

[djc]

Where are you with the pressure now? How old is the regulator, could also be that the pressure you think you are applying is higher than you think. If it were lower, than you’d see gaps in the line. Try dropping the pressure around 3 psi, and vent the keg. Also drink a little all in the name of science to reduce the pressure. After it settles in for a few days check for gaps and foam.

[DCullender]

More info please. How long is the line, pressure setting, type of beer, size of line, have you cleaned the faucet and coupler? Have you removed the top of the tower to see if the line is kinked? Alot of times the line will kink at the connection to the shank. Especially if the faucet was loose and might have spun. Does the foam happen with every pour or just the first one?

[hvhunter]

How long is the line -> 10 ft brand new
pressure setting -> 10psi
type of beer -> Captain Lawrence Pale Ale
size of line -> 3/16
have you cleaned the faucet -> brand new Perlick SS
and coupler -> yes
Have you removed the top of the tower to see if the line is kinked?
Alot of times the line will kink at the connection to the shank.
Especially if the faucet was loose and might have spun. -> This is
in a fridge, you can see the previous pics. I have a hole punched in
the side of it for a tap. 100% positive there are no kinks.
Does the foam happen with every pour or just the first one? -> Every single one,
even when pouring multiple glasses. Beer temp after 2nd pour is 36F.

I just ordered a new thomas valve, thomas valve retainer, ball, ball retainer, and pressure gauge.

As I said in my previous posts, my line is clear; no bubbles, no gaps. I'll update after I install these
new parts, and if no change, reduce the psi by 3lb.

Very frustrating to say the least, especially when you're pouring for guests.

[hvhunter]

My order arrived on Saturday. I really didn't feel like disconnecting the keg, so I installed the new pressure gauge. The old gauge was reading 10psi, the new one read 22psi. Released the pressure, and got the new gauge down to 10. First couple pours were really dark and dirty, until it finally cleared out. But I'm still having foam, and now for the first time I'm seeing air gaps in the line. What should be my next step?

[djc]

The keg is likely very over carbed if it was at 22 for any amount of time. I’d suggest turning off the CO2, vent the keg. Let it sit over night, shake it and vent it again. Now you are starting from the undercarb direction which is easier. Set it at 12-13 and wait a day. Gaps should be gone and you might actually have beer.

[Beer Brother]

Fellow beer brother, I am a professional draft beer installer and a graduate of the Micromatic Dispense Institute. I have read all the posts on this thread and everyone has given you good info. 10 ft. of 3/16 ID tubing is more than enough. 8 ft. is what I normally install and like to keep pressure at least 13 psi. to keep most ales & lagers within their spec for volumes of CO2. With more highly carbonated beers like Bud, Miller, and Yeungling I like even 15 psi for a more "scratchy" carbonation level as the colder beer is, the easier it can absorb CO2 from the head space in the keg.

The three things to balance are temperature, line resistance and pressure. It seems to me that all those factors are pretty much balanced. Getting to the point, Let me make this one recommendation. I once had a customer who bought kegorator that we set up yet we had problems exactly like you are experiencing. We did end up fixing it and I'm not sure why what we did worked. The common denominator between you and them is, believe it or not, the Perlick faucet. We even put these faucets on as an upgrade instead of the standard faucets that came with the kegorator since it is always outside and 30' from the ocean. Perlick stuff is awesome.but the only thing that corrected the problem was putting the standard faucets back on the tower. Try it. You have nothing to lose at this point.

Also, with a kegorator, pouring technique is important. I always tell bartenders to dump out the first two seconds of the pour. Watch the bead as it come out of the faucet and stop when the beer is clear. Dump and continue pouring. That first shot of foam in the glass wil ruin the rest of the pour. Poring into foam causes more foaming in the glass. However pouring clear beer into clear beer produces very little to no foam as long as your 3 elements as balanced.

[hvhunter]

Appreciate all the tips. DFC, I will try that tonight.

In regards to the Perlick, it's brand new, so my problem existed way before that came into the picture. Regardless, it's a great observation on your part, and I will follow through if my problem persists. I like what you said about the foam in the pour.

[hvhunter]

Just to follow up. I went to shake my keg last night, and it's standing on it's last legs. It won't last much longer. I'll continue with the process here with a new keg. Once I get a new keg, after settling down overnight, I'll vent it, then hook up and start with 12.5 psi. Any other suggestions?

[djc]

That is a good plan on the pressure, and you don’t really need to wait a day for it to settle to start drinking. It isn’t any different than a can of beer, it will be fine right away. I have high hopes for the new keg.

[hvhunter]

Finally, I have great news to report. Got a new keg on Friday afternoon; Captain Lawrence Kolsch. Cleaned the coupler. Installed a new thomas valve. Was going to replace the ball and retainer but the one I had ordered was too small. Hooked up everthing. Bled the keg. Turned on the co2 to 12psi. Worked perfectly. Even my first pour of the day is pretty good.

You have no idea how happy I am to have this resolved, and how much I appreciate the help from you guys. Thank you very much.

[djc]

Winner winner!