Problems balancing a kegerator...otherworldly foaming

[SeanSmart]

I have a converted chest freezer with a temp control switch set to 38 degrees and four taps. I have the CO2 set to 15 pounds (currently the only keg in there is spec'ed by the brewer at 16), I have a 3/16 setup from the taps (type D) to the shanks (4 inch) and standard faucets. The beer pours fast and foamy despite 12' (twelve FEET of 3/16 thick wall tubing). I live at 2700 feet above sea level and the kegerator is kept in the garage which is not temp controlled and the summers here are warm.

The lines are brand new, the faucets and shanks were fully disassembled and cleaned/sanitized, the keg is new, the CO2 is tank is registering in the middle of the green zone (indicating healthy and full...it is a 20# tank)

Based on the kegerator balancing calculators I should be running around 7.75-8 feet of line to balancing this system. I thought 12 feet would slow the beer to a crawl and despite this it flows fast and foamy and only improves very slightly with repeated pours (we thought warm faucets at first), but after 4-5 glasses one is lucky to get a half a beer...I am truly at a loss.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[pvs6]

You appear to have some misconception of what a balanced system is. Length of line is not a factor in balance. Nor is a raw blanket statement of 16# by a brewer useful to be able to balance your system. There are 3 variable to balance. 1) V/v which is the amount of Co2 pumped into the beer when it was kegged. 2) Is the temp. of the beer in the keg. Once you know 1 & 2 you can set 3) the correct Co2 pressure, this is found by using a chart.



Your first action right now will be to determine what temp. the beer in the keg is actually. Take a draw glass and a pitcher. Fill the draw and then pour it into the pitcher. then right away pour another and if it's still foamy dump that one too. Repeat if necessary until you have at least a 1/2 glass of beer under the foam in the glass. Then measure the temp. of that beer.

Use a thermometer that has been calibrated. Get a glass fill it with ice then water. Give it a minute and then measure the ice water bath. It should read 32F. if it does the thermometer is good. If it reads 34F it's off 2 degrees to high so then measuring your beer just subtract 2 degrees for the real temp. of beer. Likewise you will add temp if the ice bath was under 32F.

Once you have a real temp. post it along with what beer you are trying to balance and we can probably be able to help you out with the correct Psi setting. Also tell us where that 12 of line is coiled up at and what the beer in the line looks like? Are where air pocket or foam in the line? Don't adjust the Psi now at all it will only make it that much harder to balance later. With your elevation and 12' of line 16# is likely pretty close with a lot of beers.

[psychodad]

I'm assuming you have a collar and not towers. If you have towers and your setup is in a hot garage, you'll need to cool them in addition to pvs6's advice.

[SeanSmart]

First, thanks so much for the help, I greatly appreciate it!

pvs6:
The actual temp of the beer is 40 degrees F on a calibrated thermometer on the third draw (the first being foam, the second looked pretty good, and the third looked as good as the second). The beer is New Belgian Brewing's Citradelic IPA (damn tasty on a hot summer day!). The twelve feet of line is coiled on top of the kegs without any hanging loops, as far as bubbles or air pockets, I have seen them near the shank nipple previously; however, today after three draws there were no bubbles or air pockets anywhere. I left the pressure at 15 PSI as per your suggestion.

psychodad:
Your assumption is correct; I have a 3.5" wooden collar, no towers to cool.

Your thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

[pvs6]

Assuming this IPA is 2.5% v\v like most of New Belgian's products, I couldn't find the exact % with a brief google search. You can email New Belgian and ask for the Co2 V\V of this beer.

So 40F. @ 2.5% Co2 = 13# of Psi.

At 1/2 mile above sea level you really don't need to add an extra 1 Psi for push but also if you did it shouldn't hurt.
Set your Psi to 13-14# and after a day it should settle down to that and you should be balanced. The flow speed should slow some at this setting. Also after a day recheck for air pockets in the beer line. Continue to monitor beer temp. if it changes adjust it to hold at 40F. or if you change it to 38 or something else you will need to reset the Psi accordingly.
Being in a hot garage the first 2 beers may always have extra foam until the tap cools down but by the 3rd it should be pouring perfect if the time span is not to great.

[djc]

You should also take those lines off the tops of the kegs, you are storing them in the warmest part of the keezer and it takes a lot of 40 degree beer passing through and foaming to cool them down. If you don't have a circulation fan you should check into one.

[SeanSmart]

So I will lower the pressure to 13# and leave the temperature alone for the next 24 hours.

When I remove the keg lines from the top of the kegs, should I simply allow them to hang to the bottom of the kegerator?

Final question, when I check for bubbles or air pockets in the line after 24 hours, what is the expected action if I do find them? In my (inexperienced) mind that would indicate the pressure being too low and allowing the CO2 out of solution, so add .5# to 1# and give it another 24 hours and recheck?

Thanks again for all of the help, you guys and/or gals are awesome!

[djc]

Let them hang, cool on the bottom if you can. If you see bubbles raise your pressure by a pound. Wait and repeat. You shouldn't be changing more than one thing at a time. It is either pressure or temp, not both.

[SeanSmart]

Update: After 1.5 pints of foam initially (pretty hot garage especially right now) it pours absolutely perfect! Thanks again for the help, you all are awesome!

[pvs6]

Thanks for the update Sean it's rewarding to learn of the outcome on these post.

If you're interested in function over form I might have a suggestion for you. I got some 1/2 rubber foam pipe insulation at the hardware store and used it to encase my faucet so I don't lose a lot of cooling to the ambient room temp. air. Works great no more faucet dripping sweat. You will still see 1st. pint foam but expect the faucet to cool down much quicker and stay cooler longer between pours. If you try this just leave a 1/2 inch at the tip exposed so the foam rubber doesn't come in contact with the beer in the pint when pouring. Also you should get a faucet stopper like they sell here for garage use. It will keep the beer flies at bay and may provide a little insulation between uses.

[djc]

Aka Franken Faucet.

"It is better to look good than to feel good (or save energy)". -Fernando Lamas