Danby DKC645BLS issue - front panel non responsive, not cooling after power loss

[ktfjammer]

04sshd, wondering if you ever fixed your keg

[04sshd]

Hey everyone. First of all thank you to all of you for the extensive knowledge you bestow. I recently acquired a Danby Kegerator model DKC645BLS and completely replaced the lines and cleaned everything out, obviously before plugging it in. So here's the problem, I plugged in in and after about 5 minutes of running the display beeps and continually switches from F to C. When it starts the beeping and switching the display buttons become inactive and do not react to me touching them. I have read recent threats about JC temperature bypass or replacing the control board or replacing the display board (which is discontinued btw). The display seems fine. I can see everything and until the problem happens I can actually use the display. The unit definitely cools still although the left panel gets a little hot the unit still cools. HELP should I buy a new control board?

Thanks,
Joe

I had a similar problem with mine, the problem is a poor design on placement of the control board. Spilt beer can end up in the touch pad and short out the controls. The board is not available but sears does still stock the touch pad. I'm pretty sure your problem is in the touch pad itself, and not the board.

[Linckej]

Hey everyone. First of all thank you to all of you for the extensive knowledge you bestow. I recently acquired a Danby Kegerator model DKC645BLS and completely replaced the lines and cleaned everything out, obviously before plugging it in. So here's the problem, I plugged in in and after about 5 minutes of running the display beeps and continually switches from F to C. When it starts the beeping and switching the display buttons become inactive and do not react to me touching them. I have read recent threats about JC temperature bypass or replacing the control board or replacing the display board (which is discontinued btw). The display seems fine. I can see everything and until the problem happens I can actually use the display. The unit definitely cools still although the left panel gets a little hot the unit still cools. HELP should I buy a new control board?

Thanks,
Joe

[04sshd]

ok, here's an update. I tapped and soldered in a service port and evacuated and refilled the refrigerant. Plugged the machine back in and it still fails to cool. Anyone else got any ideas? The compressor is running, or at least it feels like it is. What else could be causing this kegerator to not get cold?

[04sshd]

It could very well be a fluke that the power outage occurred at the same time as the unit failed to maintain its cool. I was out of town when it happened, and all I know is when I got back just about all of the GFCI breakers in the house popped. I've left the unit running over night, outside temps in the high 30's to low 40's at night and the unit remains warmer than ambient temps over night. I bought the low pressure service port tap, and I was going to try charging it. My next question is which line is the low side on the compressor anyone have a photo? The compressor hums and feels like it's working, you can hear it kick on when the unit is plugged in.

[psychodad]

I agree that there is no reason a power outage could cause a loss of cooling ability other than it killing electronics. But if you have the board bypassed, this should make the unit cool. With the unit plugged in, feel the lines on the compressor. One line is the suction side and the other is the compressor discharge. The suction should tend to be much cooler than the discharge. If this is what you find, the compressor should be good.

Also how long are you leaving it running to see if it will cool the interior of the fridge?

[04sshd]

The power outage wouldn't have caused you to loose refrigerant. I think based on the situation you described there is still something else fried that is preventing proper cooling. I'm no pro on that though.
As far as your shopping list, get longer beer line. 5' is typically very problematic and often associated with foaming issues. As far as the broken regulator dial goes, just order a dial. It threads into the regulator and is cheap.

I'd like to believe that as well, but I'm not sure where else to look...

[djc]

The power outage wouldn't have caused you to loose refrigerant. I think based on the situation you described there is still something else fried that is preventing proper cooling. I'm no pro on that though.
As far as your shopping list, get longer beer line. 5' is typically very problematic and often associated with foaming issues. As far as the broken regulator dial goes, just order a dial. It threads into the regulator and is cheap.

[04sshd]

I guess I should add a few more details... I've done the compressor jump to see if the kegerator is still capable of cooling, which it's not. I do understand that once it starts cooling again that it will run all the time until I add an external temp controller. I have an amazon.com shopping list ready to fire off once I know this kegerator is salvageable. The list consists of the following-

Johnson Controls Digital Thermostat Control A419ABG-3C
Beer Tower Cooler
Beer Line Cleaning Kit
Draft Warehouse Clear 5-ft 3/16 inch Beer line w/Hexnut assembly on one end
High Pressure Replacement Gauge - Left Hand Thread
Perlick 650SS Flow Control Draft Beer Faucet

The Thermostat is to control the compressor on/off
The Beer Tower and line is to reduce foaming and keep the tower cold
The replacement gauge is because the PO of the kegerator moved the CO2 to inside the keg, and they damaged the gauge dial by slamming a keg into it.
The faucet is to control flow, because I'm not satisfied with the stock one


So, once I'm able to tap a low pressure line in and charge the coolant. If it holds and starts cooling, I think I'll be buying my amazon list and ordering a fresh keg. Can anyone see any flaws in my though process, am I missing anything, something I've overlooked, etc. I'd like to have it up and running soon.

[04sshd]

Hello, I'm new here and I purchased a used Danby DKC645BLS about a year ago. I ran one keg through it no problem, and on the second keg we experienced a very bad thunder storm and had a brown out that ended up smoking/popping all of the GFCI's in the house, smoked my PC power supply, and killed my kegerator. Since then the Kegerator does not cool, and the front touch panel control isn't receptive to touch any more. The LCD lights up and displays the current temp but I can no longer adjust the temperature or change from Fahrenheit to Celsius.

I've done a good amount of lurking here before I decided to post, I've read nearly all of the Danby Kegerator improvement part II thread, and I've already done the control board bypass by jumping the red wire to the black. The compressor seems to be running, but gets hot, and the interior of the kegerator does not cool. I ordered a new temp control panel from sears parts direct, that should be here any day. And regarding the cooling...I'm thinking maybe it's low on coolant? What's involved in tapping a service port into the line?

Here's the unit-


Control board location-



unmodified control board-



modified to jump red wire to black to trigger compressor