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Yes, another foam thread... help..

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  • #16
    Just a quick update. I called the brewery (Odell's) and they told me to run 20psi at 40F but wouldn't tell me what the v/v is.. Not sure what that's about. Needless to say there's no way I'm setting my Co2 to 20 psi. I'm going to order a new coupler from the site as mentioned above and just mark this keg as a bad keg.. I've wasted too much time for it to be something I'm doing wrong. Thanks a ton for all the help. I'll check back in after I get the new coupler and a new keg (something not in the wheat beer category!).

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    • #17
      Based on what they told you that would be a v/v of 3.19 which is a little on the high side. Maybe they were screwing with you or didn't quite get the question. 20 psi is out of the question, don't do that.
      What I have: Haier two tap, 525 faucets, tower cooler, 10' lines

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      • #18
        Allen,
        On one hand it might be a bit high but it is a wheat beer which should have a higher v/v, if your beer is at 36 degrees and use a v/v of 3.0, I get a PSI of about 15, if you are using 12, honestly I don't think there is harm in upping PSI to 15.
        But again if straight foam don't think it is balance, if 1st glass is 1/3 foam, then 2nd consecutive glass is better, it might be PSI is too low, it is all about balance.
        KB

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        • #19
          I'm at a point where I don't think it's a balance issue. I had a local friend come over to take a look and over the course of a few days we tried pressures between 15 and 18 and there was no change. I don't ever get a solid beer stream. It's always a mixed foamy pour. I'm thinking I have a bad keg.
          I'm going to order the stainless coupler from this site just in case, but I'm just about at the point where I'm going to give up. If the coupler doesn't help then I think I'll have to throw in the towel.

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          • #20
            Allen,
            So your friend stayed over for 36-72 hours drinking beer?
            Adjusting and balancing isn't like adjusting a stereo volume or pressing the gas on a car, it takes 12-24 hours for a system to adjust to new PSI (I think I mention this in my newbie thread, if you haven't found this thread, please check it out). If you are changing the PSI waiting a couple of minutes, foamy beer, changing PSI, wait a few minutes, foamy beer, all it could be is that you are opening door too often, could be beer check valve (in coupler) has problems or could be "bad" keg.
            There are only a couple of things that can cause a "bad" keg, bad/damaged spear (thingee the coupler attaches to) or damaged keg seal. Damaged spear will cause massive foam, way beyond 1/3 foam, damaged keg seal on keg might cause 1/3 foam, look at the area the coupler probe goes into keg. Check the coupler before blaming keg, look for all parts (post picture of bottom of coupler), beer check valve installed? correctly? Is there an extra washer between faucet and shank?
            It's easy to blame the keg or brewer, but what if it isn't a bad keg, I'm not sure if you tried what I asked, what was the foam on the 3rd consecutive glass?
            Room temperature glass, 3rd consecutive pour in same glass (just dump in pitcher), if the foam better as you go, most likely balance, if every consecutive glass as done above is 1/2 to 1/3 foam, something is irritating the beer (dirty gear, extra washer, beer check valve, missing washer on coupler or damaged keg seal on keg, etc). If you are getting 100% foam on every pour, most likely damaged spear, by your last post regarding foam it was 1/3 foam.
            I figured you were at the end of the keg, so I suggested to change the PSI to 15 and see how it works till end of keg, not to fool around with PSI and to let all your cold air run away.
            You have to be patient, opening door causes beer line to get warm, warm beer line causes foam, fiddling with PSI causes foam. You change PSI. WAIT (preferably 24 hours), check foam as above, if foam gets lower most likely balance, if the same, there is nothing you can do till you tear the system down to check as above, once done, WAIT, let system cool down (preferably 24 hours), then see. There is no instant solution to foam, 1 day isn't enough, you can't expect a system to get cold in few hours, you have to give system time to get cold, once you open the door it may take several hours for system to get back to the same level that you opened it, next post, post temperature of beer and PSI setting and what level of foam was, not "mounds" or "tons", fraction would be fine and if it gets better on consecutive room temperature glasses (same glass).
            KB

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            • #21
              I should have elaborated but I was at work. He came by to look at how I had it set up. Then we set it to 15 and he told me to let it sit overnight. I tried a pour the following night and no change. He suggested (over the phone) to increase in 1 psi increments each day letting it sit overnight before pouring. By day 4 I was at 18 psi and each pour was still foamy. What I get when I pour is foam at first then a sudsy mix throughout the rest of the pour. I never get a solid beer stream.
              I would pour one glass, dump it into a pitcher then immediately pour a second and take the temp with a calibrated digital thermometer. The temp was 37.2. The glass is always at least 1/2 foam. It doesn't get better with each consecutive pour.
              I will order the stainless coupler from the site here and will put that on and clean the entire system once it arrives. I did read through the newbie section and understand fully about not opening the door multiple times and also about letting everything settle overnight when making a change.
              So on my last attempt (10 minutes ago) 2nd pour got 1/2 glass foam and the temp was 37.4, this is at 18 psi with 10' of 3/16ID line. The line is not kinked or touching the sides or top of the fridge. It's coiled smoothly and sitting on top of the keg. I haven't opened the door in 2 days before trying to pour and after I poured the second glass I opened it to check co2 pressure was still at 18.

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              • #22
                Allen,
                Thanks for the clarification, understand my numbers are based upon 35 degree beer, once you go to 37-38 degree beer, my PSI numbers for 3.0-3.2 v/v beers goes to 19-20 PSI. Also that wheat beer in general will be more carbonated and will be more foamy than regular beer. I remember watching a program about microbreweries, they poured a wheat beer and in a wheat beer glass, they had a really foamy head, then they filled to top after it settled.
                Right now without a proper v/v. it just a shot in the dark, just wait till keg kicks, clean and check gear, put new coupler on (this check ball should be fine). If you want to play around, try without the check ball in the coupler you have and see if it helps, post pictures if you need any more help.
                KB
                Last edited by KillianBoy; 08-30-2014, 01:32 PM.

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                • #23
                  Will do, thanks again for all your help! My next keg will be something with a known v/v and not a wheat to get everything calibrated

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