need help converting an old jockey box

[rich b]

Glad i found this forum! I have a 20yr old jockey box, dual stainless coils but the stainless tubing is welded to the shanks (seriously, who thought that would be a good idea, sheesh!) that worked fine for many years but one of the welds on the intake side is starting to leak and one of the shanks got damaged and no longer perfectly round, also starting to leak. I see on the parts site there are ferrules and grommets which i would need in addition to new shanks. SO, I'm assuming you cut the line (using a nice sharp tubing cutter) put the grommet and ferrule on in some order and then flare the end of the tube out? I can't make out enough details on any picture in the website so i can't quite tell what order parts go on, and is the flaring of the tubing the correct method?

thanks for any help you can share with this old homebrewer.

[Kenny Z]

No flaring required...

No flaring required. Cut the damaged portion of the tubing being sure to remove any burrs. Try to save as much of the straight section of tube as possible. If you can't do that you can GENTLY straighten the end of the tubing enough to get it inserted into the shank. One method is to insert the bent tubing into the shank and GENTLY bend it straight. Insert a little more and straighten....etc.. You can also clean the proper size drill bit and insert that GENTLY into the end of the tubing to straighten it. The important thing is not to kink or scratch the tubing in the process. Don't worry too much, you only really need and inch or so into the shank and enough to fit the ferrule and grommet on. The grommet should provide a reliable seal so long as you can get everything together cleanly enough to tighten the nut on the shank.

I've also seen nipple shanks used successfully on jockey boxes with the coils connected to the shank with a short piece of plastic tubing and hose clamps. It works but you have to check the clamps every time you use it and it seems like it provides one more area for crud to build up in. On the keg side of the coil you could also just connect the beer line directly to the coil with a hose clamp. I don't recommend it but it's quick and cheap and I've seen it work.

[rich b]

Thanks!

Thanks for the quick reply Kenny. I just need to verify which size tubing I have and order all new shanks, ferrules and grommets and i'll be back in business. I'll probably mount everything in a new cooler too, the old one has the inputs on the side, and I think they would work better and look cleaner out of the back instead.

Rich B