New To Me Bev Air BM23

[whiplash willy]

This old BM23 has a 2.5" tower, and i want to be able to use the new Stainless Shank I picked up from micromatic. The problem is the new shank has a larger diameter then the hole in the 2.5" tower. I guess the 3" tower's shank holes are larger. I could try drilling out the hole in the 2.5" tower, but I rather just put a 3" tower on my BM23. Is there some kind of adapter that you can screw into the mounting holes for the 2.5" tower, that also has studs for a 3" tower? Any better way to retrofit a 3" tower then having to drill new mounting holes, which I really rather not do?

[Noodle]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but it seemed the most appropriate.

I recently picked up a BM23 for $60 from a local surplus, bought a new Perlick faucet, D coupler, regulator, and air & be line.

The part i'm missing is the condensation tray that goes under the unit. Does anyone know the part number or something that would work there. It seems to be about 8" wide and minimum 8" deep would also be at most 3-3.5" deep.

Also when looking at the unit the upper left corner of the door has a pinhole /toothpick spot where the door let's light tgrough because the bottom hinge is very slightly bent.

Can't seem to bend it back and can't figure out how to replace that part of the hinge.

Last but not least it sat for a while and could use a little cleaning inside and smells a little musty. What would be the best way to clean it?

Thanks all.

[Noodle]

So I just checked after 24hrs on setting 6 and it's only hitting 46 degrees in the cup of water placed inside with an instant read thermometer.

Actually think I'm going to switch out the water and test again tomorrow. I have it in a plastic cup now but am going to put my stainless steel nalgeen water bottle in there. I would think that's closer to a keg per say

[cubby_swans]

the container won't affect the temperature a cup of water would reach after a day. You'll really want to figure out a way to seal up the door. You can really see how much your seal is off by sticking a flashlight in the unit, closing the door, and shut off all the lights in the room. Any where light is escaping, cold air is also escaping.

[Noodle]

the container won't affect the temperature a cup of water would reach after a day. You'll really want to figure out a way to seal up the door. You can really see how much your seal is off by sticking a flashlight in the unit, closing the door, and shut off all the lights in the room. Any where light is escaping, cold air is also escaping.

I did actually put a flashlight in the unit and lights off. The only spot where any light is coming through is where I mentioned. The top left corner there is a pinpoint / diameter of a toothpick where I can see light. Extremely tiny but that is the only spot.

The bottom hing is slightly bent but not the piece that screws into the door but the part attached to the body. Can that part be replaced?
Could the thermostat be bad?

[KillianBoy]

Noodle,
Yup, what cubby_swans says, before you start blaming thermostat, you got refrigerant (too low), blower fan (worn out), door seal (also worn out). If you are saying as small as you say, MAYBE, not the problem, in an old unit you got a multitude of problems that will effect cooling.
Honestly on 6 at 24 may not be enough to get a correct reading, a warm unit MAY not cool as fast, BE PATIENT, try for 48 hours and see.
If the hole is between the gasket and unit, try and put a piece of tape and see if it doesn't show any light.
KB

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

That door is cocked by nature so it swings closed when open if thats part of your concern. If the piece at bottom is bent more then it should be then take screws out of hinge on door at top of door then door will lift off. You can then put a pair of vise grips on that bottom bracket and gently bend. If you breakoff that piece that goes into wall of unit, you are screwed and will have to adapt an exterior hinge.if gasket is just missing unit wall by a only a little amount try a hair dryer to soften up gasket to reseat it to the face of the unit.If you think tstat is bad you can jump out the thermostat to make it run 24/7. Do you see evaporator coil freezing up at all when running? best test is just a 5 gal bucket of water.If you can't cool mass amount of water then your not gonna cool a keg of beer.
Post some pics might help a little more answer your concerns with the door.

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but it seemed the most appropriate.

I recently picked up a BM23 for $60 from a local surplus, bought a new Perlick faucet, D coupler, regulator, and air & be line.

The part i'm missing is the condensation tray that goes under the unit. Does anyone know the part number or something that would work there. It seems to be about 8" wide and minimum 8" deep would also be at most 3-3.5" deep.

Also when looking at the unit the upper left corner of the door has a pinhole /toothpick spot where the door let's light tgrough because the bottom hinge is very slightly bent.

Can't seem to bend it back and can't figure out how to replace that part of the hinge.

Last but not least it sat for a while and could use a little cleaning inside and smells a little musty. What would be the best way to clean it?

Thanks all.

Condensate drip pan is expensive...
Part # is
08B30S042C
BEVERAGE AIR COND PAN ASSY BM23 - 08B30S042C

Bevair used to just use a walmart quality bake pan with the wicking material in it.Better quality now...

[Noodle]

No ice on the condenser coil. Fans all run. I have my Maverick 733 probe inside the water so I don't have to open the door anymore when using my thermapen.

Everything looks pretty clean in back.

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[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

Icing would be in the evaporator coils inside the unit.Would have to hold a flash light up to fan shroud to see in there.

[Noodle]

Icing would be in the evaporator coils inside the unit.Would have to hold a flash light up to fan shroud to see in there.

I did check in there as well. Nothing. I think I may have found the problem though.

While I had the back off the condenser fan was spinning so I assumed everything was working fine. However I noticed the back cover is very very slightly bent inward when screwed back in and looks like it is preventing the fan from spinning.

I left the back off for a few minutes and the fan works normally. I'm going to have to try and bend that cover back out so it doesn't interfere with the fan. For now I'm just going to leave it off for a few days and see if I can hit temps.

[Noodle]

Sure enough it looks like it was the back plate causing issues. Just got home from work and a little over 8 hours later and it's already at 37 degrees on 6.

I'm going to put a 5 gallon in there tonight and check again tomorrow.

[Noodle]

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Not sure if you can see but there is a scratch on the left and that is where the fan blade was hitting, it also looks like on the bottom right is where the tube out of the compressor, the part that is shaped like a co2 canister was getting hot and touching the cover.

Just need to figure out the best way to bend it all back out. I tried by hand and the metal just pops back.

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

If I recall correctly the whole compressor tray actually pulls out for service. Might be out of place and that is your issue? Might have some bolts underneath to loosen.

[Noodle]

If I recall correctly the whole compressor tray actually pulls out for service. Might be out of place and that is your issue? Might have some bolts underneath to loosen.

No pull out tray but I think I'm going to take the cover to a friend's house and clamp it down and just try and pound it back.

Does anyone know the part number for that back plate in case this doesn't work?