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After the first few all foam pours, the foam dissapears...

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  • After the first few all foam pours, the foam dissapears...

    OK- so I pour a glass...mostly foam. A second... mostly foam. Then a third almost all beer with barely any head! What the hell? Pressure is at 9 psi... Hefeweizen is at 38 degrees. So confused?!:

  • #2
    KVorder,
    Can you describe your system completely? Type and model of kegerator, new or used, how long beer line, exact brand of beer, v/v of beer everything helps members figure your problem. Off hand your PSI is too low, and tower is warm, without more information it's impossible to diagnose your problem.
    KB

    Comment


    • #3
      9 psi is very low for a Hef IMHO. In order to get the carbonation up you are going to have to raise the pressure significantly and increase the line length or use some sort of restricter to reduce foam.

      This chart will help you determine your required pressure setting to achieve the high volumes of co2 often used with wheats (3.3 to 4.5 volumes). http://www.zahmnagel.com/LinkClick.a...ow%3D&tabid=77

      As the poster above pointed out, let us know your setup, line length, etc. And if the 38 is actual beer temperature or kegerator temperature.
      Malt is the soul of beer... and yeast gives it life..
      but the kiss of the hop is the vitality of that life!

      My three favorite beers: The one I just had, the one I'm drinking now and the next one I'll have.

      http://kegerator-social-network.micr...bygrouptherapy

      Comment


      • #4
        I can't seem to find an answer to my problem, but if I can hijack this thread - I bought a conversion system and made a kegerator about six months ago. After some initial Co2 leak issues, I got everything working perfectly. At least as far as I knew at that point. One keg ago, I did a thorough cleaning of the system, including disassembly of the tap and the coupler. After putting everything back together and tapping a new keg, I could not get it to pour without being 80% foam. Also, if I pulled the tap about halfway, I'd get beer, if I pulled it all the way, it cut off. I had the system at about 10psi and I don't know the temp. After struggling thru the entire keg that way, I did some research and found exploded diagrams for each of the two components, cleaned them again, and tried to follow the diagrams. I had a fairly large orange washer at the backside of the tap - where it connects to the front of the fridge. The diagram seems to indicate this should be a much thinner washer - it looks like it a square cross section o-ring. I had one of those in my cleaning kit, so I installed that and the tap pouring now works, but I'm still getting 80% foam. I turned the pressure up to about 12, but it's still almost all foam. I notice the blowup diagram of the d-type coupler shows two item No. 5 washers. Maybe my flat orange washer should go there?

        Comment


        • #5
          Waymegelli,
          Whether a hijacker or OP or anyone else, you still have to provide as much information as possible, as psychodad said if a Hef it's too low, at 12 might be fine but depending on brand of beer and temperature if you know the v/v then post but brand should be enough. There should be 1 black round thin washer in faucet (tap), that's all, it usually stays in the faucet (tap), beer line side of the coupler should have 1 black 2 CM washer between check ball retainer and tailpiece, that's all, orange washer is probably from cleaning kit. Any PSI under 10 is too low pretty much for all beers, depending on the temperature of the beer, as I said before "without more information it's impossible to diagnose your problem." Post whether rear or forward sealing faucet (standard is rear) , PSI set at, temperature of the beer, length of beer line and what brand of beer, would help figure out your problem.
          KB

          Comment


          • #6
            My line from the coupler to the tap is 60". Temperature is 40 degrees and pressure is 13psi. Regarding the washer near the check ball - I think when I reassembled everything, I put the check ball in, then the spiral spring, small end first, then nothing else except the washer at the end of the air line. I don't remember it's color. Does this sound right?

            Comment


            • #7
              Waymegelli,
              Can't tell if it's right without the v/v of beer or brand of beer at least (search balance in forum). Every manufacturer of coupler has different way of working the coupler components, most people can do without the check ball and retainer system and on gas side there should be a gas check and a washer but most definitely at least a gas check and not just a washer. So next post PLEASE brand of beer or v/v of beer and manufacturer of the coupler, also how many kegs have been put through and if faucet, beer line and coupler have been cleaned properly.
              KB

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm afraid I'm new to this and don't know how to determine v/v. The beer is Winter Warmer from a local brewer named Rahr. Everything is very clean - I disassembled every piece of both the tap and the coupler and cleaned it per the beer cleaning kit instructions. I'll take it all apart again tonight and check it against your suggestions. How do I determine v/v for this beer?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Waymegelli,
                  v/v is the carbonation level the beer is brewed at, every brewery has it's own recipe, so best way to find the v/v of your beer is contact the brewery, DON'T ask what PSI to set at, ask for the v/v of the beer. Look through forum for the way to find the PSI using v/v and temperature. I don't recall seeing your beer in the carbonation level thread, but you could search your beer in forum if another member posted it. Can you post what beers you did get to pour perfectly.
                  KB

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I contacted the brewer and learned the v/v for Winter Warmer is 2.4. Using the chart I found, the pressure should be 11 psi for 40 degrees. I set the pressure to 11 and I'm getting a little less foam, but still about 1/2 a glass. As I said, I had the same problem with my previous keg - Iron Thistle from Rahr. I had no problem with previous kegs - Shiner Boch, Coors Light, Ugly Pug (Rahr), Summertime Wheat (Rahr) and Dos Equis.
                    Regarding your suggestions, I disassembled the coupler and found that I don't have any o-ring type washer like number 5 in the blowup display for mircomatic coupler 7485E. Does that o-ring come off with the coupler stay with the keg?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Waymegelli,
                      What PSI did you set all those beers at? Shiner Bock is at 2.5 (from an exhaustive search of the forum), so if 11 then something else maybe causing your problems. Adjusting the PSI isn't like adjusting the volume on your stereo, it takes time for the keg to adjust.
                      OK, about parts, couplers are not created equally. If you have a MM coupler then it looks like the O-rings you are referencing are attached to the body of the coupler on the inside, this is the gas seal for the probe, other manufacturers put these O-ring on probe itself, but either way unless you disassemble coupler you won't see O-rings, to disassemble fully you need to remove screw and remove handle, this will release probe from coupler. It's good to disassemble the coupler every so often but as long as you clean inside of the probe with a brush you should be good. A standard black washer (look in store), is needed at the top of the probe (above spiral spring), hex/ wing nut and tailpiece secured to coupler.
                      Unlike the coupler the faucet needs to be fully disassembled every time you change keg, all parts cleaned, in standard rear sealing faucets you have 2 small air holes, 1 below where beer pours out and the other can only be seen if lever is taken out, both need to be cleaned out, otherwise it could cause foam.
                      If the Shiner Bock poured fine at 11 PSI, can't see why the Winter Warmer doesn't also pour fine at same PSI, you might also look into getting longer beer line, if the flow it to fast, then this could also cause excessive foam.
                      KB

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