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  • Perlick Direct Draw Cooling Problem

    Was wondering if anyone on the forums has had a similar problem. I have a pretty old Perlick Direct Draw/Bottle Cooler combo unit that is having a problem cooling. The compressor kicks on and gets cold, but the temp only gets down into the mid 50's. There seems to be an excessive amount of condensation in the keg compartment on the aluminum fins (I think that is the condenser). I think that the thermostat is probably ok, because it will kick on right away, but maybe the fan is not working and the unit is overheating. Any ideas/troubleshooting suggestions?

  • #2
    Originally posted by ace168516 View Post
    Was wondering if anyone on the forums has had a similar problem. I have a pretty old Perlick Direct Draw/Bottle Cooler combo unit that is having a problem cooling. The compressor kicks on and gets cold, but the temp only gets down into the mid 50's. There seems to be an excessive amount of condensation in the keg compartment on the aluminum fins (I think that is the condenser). I think that the thermostat is probably ok, because it will kick on right away, but maybe the fan is not working and the unit is overheating. Any ideas/troubleshooting suggestions?
    Sounds like your unit is low on refrigerant - You will need to get a reputable refrigeration tech to take a look at the unit. Determining why the unit is leaking is paramount. Charging without first fixing the leak will fail in a relatively short time, and is often practiced by unscrupulous techs. Which brings us to...

    I'm assuming when you say that it's an older unit that you mean old enough to use R-12 - check the panel on the unit and you will know. Most are R-12 (older) or R-134 (newer).

    R-12 is VERY expensive now, it's production having been outlawed quite a while ago. This is why if you decide to have the unit repaired, make sure that your technician can locate and repair the leak before he charges the unit, ensure that you either witness this, or can have the repair demonstrated before you shell out for very expensive, environment damaging refrigerant that will leak out again if not repaired.

    Your tech should have an electronic instrument that detects leaks, and should be able to find it quickly, or explain to you that they are going to pressurize the system with nitrogen or helium and possibly a trace charge of refrigerant to locate the leak.

    Chances are you might know a bar owner or manager or two, ask for a reference to a reputable refrigeration tech if you need assistance locating one.

    Good luck.


    P.S. Stop running the system until you have it checked out, running it low on refrigerant will drastically shorten it's lifespan.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by BrewGuru View Post
      Sounds like your unit is low on refrigerant - You will need to get a reputable refrigeration tech to take a look at the unit. Determining why the unit is leaking is paramount. Charging without first fixing the leak will fail in a relatively short time, and is often practiced by unscrupulous techs. Which brings us to...
      Possibly, but don't count your chickens.

      I'm assuming when you say that it's an older unit that you mean old enough to use R-12 - check the panel on the unit and you will know. Most are R-12 (older) or R-134 (newer).
      If the unit is older than 1994 then it takes R-12. 12 was banned that year.

      R-12 is VERY expensive now, it's production having been outlawed quite a while ago. This is why if you decide to have the unit repaired, make sure that your technician can locate and repair the leak before he charges the unit, ensure that you either witness this, or can have the repair demonstrated before you shell out for very expensive, environment damaging refrigerant that will leak out again if not repaired.
      R-12 is still legal to use & is available but it is taxed to the hilt. It is illegal to knowingly disperse it into the atmosphere. There are replacement refrigerants available for the old R-12 systems that work very well & are virtual drop ins. R-409a is one that works very well.

      Your tech should have an electronic instrument that detects leaks, and should be able to find it quickly, or explain to you that they are going to pressurize the system with nitrogen or helium and possibly a trace charge of refrigerant to locate the leak.
      True.

      Chances are you might know a bar owner or manager or two, ask for a reference to a reputable refrigeration tech if you need assistance locating one.

      Good luck.


      P.S. Stop running the system until you have it checked out, running it low on refrigerant will drastically shorten it's lifespan.
      Back to the chicken counting... ace also mentioned that he is having problems with the fan. If it is the condenser fan, the one by the compressor, then that would be his problem. Do not run the unit until it is replaced. If it were the evaporator fan, the one inside, then the evaporator would most likely be freezing over so thats probably not the problem.


      My conversion ===------->> KILLER KEGERATOR
      "Without question, the greatest invention in the history of mankind is beer. Oh, I grant you that the wheel was also a fine invention, but the wheel does not go nearly as well with pizza."
      -Dave Barry-
      "We old folks have to find our cushions and pillows in our tankards.
      Strong beer is the milk of the old."
      -Martin Luther-

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the replies...I do not think the coolant is leaking...I said there was a lot of condensation in the keg compartment, but I have no reason to believe to coolant is leaking. Unfortunately, I'm not too up on refrigerator component terminology. The unit is a rolltop bottle cooler/1 direct draw combo unit. Under the roll top section is the front grate ( I am assuming that this is the compressor area, as it seems to be in the same location as most commercial equiptment). Then at the top of the keg compartment, there is a oval/rectangular part with aluminum fins...thought this was the condensor, although I may have those backwards. The part inside the keg compartment, still gets cold to the touch, did make a squealing sound for a little bit, but went away, so I think it is an air circulation problem causing the unit to shut off/freeze over/overheat...something along those lines. I hope I can get to the point where I can get it apart to the point where I can inspect the components and fans and such to check it out. I think it might be worth fixing if it is just a fan or maybe a motor or thermostat...anything else would probably be better to save up for a newer 134a model (and I'd like room for another barrel or two). Right now I have it unplugged and drying out, so I can move the beast to a location I can actually take a look at it. If the above info helps or shines more light on the situation, any info would be appreciated. Just so hard to get rid of your first kegerator...we had so many good times haha! Thanks again, ACE

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the post ICEMAN...after rereading your post and looking around for a diagram of general parts, looks to be the evap fan...it does not run at all...I got the bottom bracket off the evap unit and looked inside...now just need to hunt one down somehow since this unit is so old, I can't find any reference material for it. Thanks again for the info!

          Comment


          • #6
            ICEMAN - touche! I should have inquired about the condition of the fans, etc... before pointing the finger at the coolant.

            I sometimes make the mistake of assuming that things like this have already been checked...

            Glad to hear that there is another point to look at for you, evap fans are easy to replace and hopefully this is the only cause of your problem. I would still recommend not running the unit until you get proper circulation inside to avoid freezing problems.

            If you can get the fan out, you should be able to get a model number of the fan itself and likely use that to order a new one. Honestly, if you cannot find an exact replacement, many similarly rated fans that will direct mount to your bracket are probably available. Pull the failed one and see if you can find a replacement, if not report back and we may be able to help you out!

            P.S. send the model number of your Perlick DD cooler in order to make this easier to look up.

            Good luck

            Comment


            • #7
              ace168516,

              I just re-read your reply..."bottom bracket"...

              When we say "evap fan" we mean the fan inside the unit, that circulates cold air around.

              The one outside of the cold area, usually behind a lower grille / cover plate, is the condenser fan, which of these is not operating?

              The evap fan should run all of the time, the condenser fan should only run when the condenser cycles on and is running.

              Comment


              • #8
                The condenser fan (which from what I have read is the one by the compressor outside of the refrigeration compartment) runs when the compressor kicks on...which seems to work fine. The evap unit (which in this model is inside the keg compartment mounted at the top underneath tower) is not running at all (again, from what I have been told and from my limited research). There is a galvanized steel plate that unscrews from the bottom of the evaporator unit, and the fan is on the inside of this...surrounded by all the aluminum fins...still have not figured out how to totally get this off without taking the entire evap unit out, but I am assuming this can be done. With the plate dislodged, I can see the fan inside and it is not running at all, so assuming that the motor is getting power, I can only think it is the motor. Hopefully it will go alright and be up and working...I just bought a new house and am trying to figure out the layout of the bar area, so it is still at my old place...I wanted to keep this one a bit longer since it worked great for 8 or 9 years since I got it used. If I can hold out a bit longer, I can save up for a 3 or 4 keg unit that I am planning on putting in the room behind the bar and then plumb the taps to the back of the bar wall...if not I might have to go without for awhile, or do a conversion...also Shiner Bock is now available in my area, so...really want it running again haha. Thanks again for all the help and if I can get that motor out, I will see what people have to say. Thanks a million again, ACE

                Comment


                • #9
                  ok, here is what I'm looking for...any advice?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Perlick Part number C15239A, or equivalent; Evaporator fan.

                    You will need to remove the blade from that one and re-install on the new one.

                    Should be around $30-$40 depending on where you live in the country and your supplier.

                    Good luck!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks so much for all the help...picked up a similar motor to the one you suggested at a local refrigeration place for $45...popped it in an next morning we were quiet and cold at 30 degrees..still need to do some work as a lot of the screws in the evap unit were rusted to the point that they were breaking, so getting some replacement screws with nuts and washers in stainless steel, so nothing breaks looks in the future. Here's to hopefully another 10 years with my antique. Thanks again, ACE

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Glad to hear that you're up and running again! Replacing rusted out hardware such as screws, washers, and bolts, with new stainless steel parts is a good move.

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