Nostalgia Electrics Kegerator really works

[Krc784]

Killian,

You are correct. I have a perfect flow going on this second keg (shiner bock). I think it's just a matter of me getting the temperature dialed in along with the appropriate PSI as everyone has mentioned here. I have the 7ft of hose sitting in the box now, and I'll keep if for spare parts I think at this point. I am looking at some dual towers on this site, and will probably end up purchasing one of those in the future. Any suggestions on a good one (bang for your buck)? I anticipate once I purchase one of those and get ready to install it, I would have some questions, but it appears most of them are already on this forum and I could just reference back here when I get to doing that project. My first thought is to try and have the C02 system setup so I can regulate each keg with a different pressure, just in case I have two types of beer that need to be kept at different PSI. As I mentioned, I'm sure that information is on this site, and I have just not dug for it yet.

All in all, this has been a fun experience and I think I finally have this kegerator figured out, and intend on doing some modifications in the near future to it.

Thanks,

[KillianBoy]

Krc784,
Thank you for the update, If you are still getting foam on the 1st pour, then its the warm faucet. If you don't have a fan, get one, all you need is air circulation at the beginning (this will even out the cold air inside unit), when you get it running, look through forum for the way to make a tower cooler, this will take care of the 1st pour foam and also circulate air.
Towers and faucets are a matter of taste, guys love that look of the forward sealing faucet, the standard SS faucet is good enough in my opinion. You want easy off faucets, get the "Spin Stop" faucets with the dual tower, faucets lock onto tower and all you have to do is use a 1 inch modified box wrench.
I, myself, don't like towers, you have to cool them in one shape or form and DO IT RIGHT. If not done right, it will cause more problems then it solves. If you are running Glycol, then perfect, no tweaking or experimenting, but very expensive. If I did this for myself I would go with a refrigerator or freezer conversion and drill holes in side or skirt, towers are for looks, I'm just in it for the beer, not the pretty shiny.
KB

[EWngreps]

First off I would like to introduce my self. Engreps Barry from southern Virginia.
I have pick up a lot of great information from this thread. Thanks to all that has contributed.

I bought a Nostalga Electric Double Kegorator off of Ebay. I bought it for the Double tap tower and all of the keg taps and lines and the CO2 tank with a double regulator. Said the unit did not work and was for parts only. So I bought it for $140.00 with the shipping. Hooked it up and it wouldn't cool. No biggie as the store on Ebay said it was for parts only.
I was thinking of using the parts to set up a refrigarator. One of my friends said he could fix the unit,
He put a freon tap on the compressor and set up the freon guages and there was no freon.
When we started adding freon we found the problem. Some one must have tried cutting a hole in the side to put the CO2 tank out side. They cut one of the high pressure lines in the side. These lines are to cool the freon on the return back to the compressor. We cut the line and slide a larger diameter tubing over the bad spot ans silver soldered it.
Put a vacume pump on the tap and have pulled vacume on the unit to get out and moisture and so we can install freon.
HE did great no leaks.

Maybe some one on the forum was the person who tried to use a hole saw on the side of the unit. You can't do that., well mayybe if he had of drilled a half inch higher. One of the first thing I noticed the both beer taps would not move. I removed them and soaked them in hot water and was finaly able to get the apart. Cleaned them up and they work great. I bought some beverage cleaning solution and am going to clean the lines. If I had of read this forum first I would have bought new line
I have a couple question .
cooling the tower. The tower is open under the tower into the beer storage are, cold air must get to the tower. from the inside of the unit. The lines have a rubber sleave that will insolate the from the outside of the tower.

I read on this thread about cooling the tower with blowers . What do you think?

I read about a marble. I think maybe goes under the keg tap? I don't have such an animal. Do I need one for each tap?

I am excited to get this unit up and running. Going to set up Miller Lite and Miller 64 First. Getting a deal on both.

[djc]

Congrats on the good deal.
A tower cooler will definately improve your pours, as will longer beer lines. Not enough cold air goes into the tower unless it is forced into it. Think about it....cold air sinks and there is no outlet for the air at the top of the tower. There is no reason for any significant amount of air to voluntarily go into the tower. Even small temperature changes can give you foamy pours. Marble? You mean check ball maybe? It is in the keg coupler just below where the beer line attaches. Not a required part.
I would double think your beer selections....deal or no deal, you are essentially putting the same product on both sides.

[EWngreps]

Congrats on the good deal.
A tower cooler will definately improve your pours, as will longer beer lines. Not enough cold air goes into the tower unless it is forced into it. Think about it....cold air sinks and there is no outlet for the air at the top of the tower. There is no reason for any significant amount of air to voluntarily go into the tower. Even small temperature changes can give you foamy pours. Marble? You mean check ball maybe? It is in the keg coupler just below where the beer line attaches. Not a required part.
I would double think your beer selections....deal or no deal, you are essentially putting the same product on both sides.

Thanks for the reply. My wife is the Miller 64. I am going to try and convince her to try something else..

[djc]

You should work on that. "I've got low cal yellow water on this side, and I've got low cal yellow water on that side. What'll it be?"
If it comes down to that pairing, you should just go with a 1/2 of one of them and call it a day. At least you'll save money. You don't save any money with 1/6ths.

[EWngreps]

We repaired the leak and pulled vacume on the unit. Filled with freon. It.s ben running for one hour . Temp set a little under medium.. Temp holding at 34. Looks like I am ready to get a keg...

[KillianBoy]

EWngreps,
Good to hear, if you are talking about 34 degrees air temperature or small glass of water, then it MIGHT be fine. The only way to be certain everything works for a keg is to put a large bucket of water (usually 5 gallon), then turn to between 3/4 and 1/2 setting and WAIT, 12-24 hours is recommended, if between 35-39 degrees, then you know everything works right.
KB

[EWngreps]

EWngreps,
Good to hear, if you are talking about 34 degrees air temperature or small glass of water, then it MIGHT be fine. The only way to be certain everything works for a keg is to put a large bucket of water (usually 5 gallon), then turn to between 3/4 and 1/2 setting and WAIT, 12-24 hours is recommended, if between 35-39 degrees, then you know everything works right.
KB

Thanks for ther info.. The temp is with a thermometer. I will put five gallons of water in it and check the temp.
I should have plenty of adjustment room. We checked the temp with a digital professional unit and on high setting we were getting the back plate to freeze

[KillianBoy]

EWngreps,
I'm really sorry but I've been called elitist, snotty and that I discriminated against a person that had a disability but you really have be clear unless you are calling me slow (pardon me if I use the un-PC term retarded), I KNOW YOU ARE TAKING THE TEMPERATURE WITH A THERMOMETER, I am just asking if it's air temperature, water in glass or some other way but I am just saying there is a big difference between air, water in a glass and some other way, a big difference. You really need to read through forum, and understand that air temperature will vary, ESPECIALLY IF IT HAS NO AIR CIRCULATION, 43 degrees air temperature might be fine but its good that you will use a bucket of water, and make sure its calibrated we've had members post that they have had temperatures with professional units before and -oops- 1-2 degrees off, and EVERYTHING depends on the actual temperature of the beer (setting of PSI), please read the "Read before Posting" thread and PLEASE spell check or take care to post PLEASE, pretty please, and I'm sorry if you have some sort of disability, I'm just asking for clarity in your posts., thank you and again if I am offending you in any way I mean no malice or ill will.
KB

[pvs6]

I have a ext temp controller attached to the bottom of the keg at dip tube level that is insulated from inside air temp. I also record temp from the units bottom, top, tower and compressor. Killianbay is right just reading air temp doesn't help. My 2nd pour is at 37F. which the ext. temp probe validates but the air inside ranges from 30 to 40F. in a half hour, if you avg. that you'd expect the keg was at 35F not the 37F real 2nd pour from the bottom of the keg. The plastic 5 gallon pail test he spoke of is the proof but at 34 air temp for the lowest I'd bet real beer temp in the mid 38-40 range.

[fdm500]

Yes Help adjusting the thermostat

I have fixed my temp problem. Long story short, I needed to play with and adjust all 3 screws on the thermostat to get the proper adjustments. If anyone ever has any problems getting their unit cold enough, let me know I may be able to help you out.

Im now pouring Anchor Steam at 37* F consistently. Delicious.

I just got my Nostalgia KRS2100 and new keg turned it on max cool for two days and it does not get down below 50 deg. I took the thermostat off and turned the phillips screw above the know one turn clockwise and it turns on then turns off. ???

[pvs6]

Just got? is it new if so take it back for a replacement. If used You will have to determine if the unit is capable of cooling to 35F. That's done by bypassing the T-stat connecting both T-stat wires to each other causing the compressor to run full time. Before you do that we need more information, constant running of the compress runs the risk of over heating and damaging the compressor. Tell us now the cycle times of the compressor (how long is it running and how long is it off for.)