Bm23 freezing

[djshakes]

What would cause these coils to freeze up? Door seal seems fine. Put a flash light in it and **** the door. Don't see any gaps in door seal. Only thing I did different was switch from corny kegs to full sized.

[djshakes]

I put a super high powered led light in the unit and can see the light ever so slightly in a couple spots. Took the seal off, cleaned and used a heat gun once sealed to soften up seal. Still the same but I can't imagine that subtlety causing this. I did order a new temp control knob although this one does shut off compressor when switched to off.

[THE ICEMAN]

The ice pattern looks like the unit was just running & running, trying to come down to temp but but never shutting off. Where did you have your temp control set? Typically they should be set at about 4 to 5 on the dial... Make sure the coils get completely defrosted all the way though the coil, not just the surface ice. Start at about the 3 setting & make sure the compressor will shut off. If it is not cold enough move it clockwise in small increments until you reach the temp you're looking for.


THE ICEMAN

[djshakes]

Thanks iceman. Over the past couple days I defrosted and ordered a new stock temp controller. Installed it today. I only had my setting set to four previously. I kept it the same with new temp controller. My thought was that could be the only reason it isn't shutting off bc it isn't detecting the temp. Let's see what happens. It has been running for about two hours and every time I check the compressor it was still running and starting to form ice on the coil. I wasn't sure if it was hooked up correctly so I switched the wires around. The double wire is on the out tab. It is the correct part number but looked a little different. The connection tabs on the controller were labeled in and out. The old one didn't have that. The unit turned on either way I had it connected. Pic is how it is now.

It wouldn't be the relay or overload, correct? I have spares of those if needed.

This is my second bm23 and I'm half tempted to junk it. Pissing me off. Someone has a kegco for sale locally I could pickup that is new in the box.

Maybe I should buy this?

https://www.kegerators.com/equipment/wall-oulet-kegerator-temperature-control/

temp.jpg

[djshakes]

Followup, I swapped the relay and overload just because I had spares. Still no change. Compressor keeps running even with dial set at 1.

Could low refrigerant cause this? I have a thermometer in the unit and it is cooling to mid 30s. I could go to auto zone and pic up some coolant. The unit already had a refill port attached.

[djshakes]

Well this morning it was only at 50 degrees with setting on four. So I swapped wires back around on thermostat as I felt it was getting cooler before. It was starting to form ice also. I'm running it again before I go to work to see if it gets colder. If not, I'll buy some refrigerant. I also ordered the external temp shut off outlet I posted above. If neither work Im dumping the unit and will never buy bev air again.

[THE ICEMAN]

As far as your control goes, it makes no difference where the wires are connected. The in/out labeling had nothing to do with the terminals, it is for internal adjustments - nothing to worry about. The temp control is simply an on/off switch controlled by temperature.

Your latest pic shows me that your unit is definitely low on refrigerant. If you choose to recharge the unit be very careful not to overcharge it. That unit only holds 3.75 ozs. Over charging can destroy the compressor valves over time. Try to find the R134A that has the 'leak stop' in it. When charging, add very slowly with the can upside down to the point where the suction line near the compressor starts to feel cold. Button things up, keep the door closed & let the unit come down to temp. If you start to see frost form on the line going all the way to the compressor you have overcharged it. What you're looking for is a suction line that is very cold & sweating, not frosting, all the way back to the compressor. Be patient & give time for things to work.

Don't blame Bev Air, leaks can & do happen to all brands.


THE ICEMAN

[djshakes]

Thank you Iceman. I won't blame Bev Air, just frustrated. I know someone that will charge it for me. My only other concern is that I put the new thermostat in the unit and it doesn't seem to be working. I wanted to test the thermostat to make sure it wasn't an issue. I turned the thermostat down to 1 and held a piece of ice at the end of the temp sensor for about 3-5 minutes. It never switched off the unit. Is this a sufficient test? The guy that said he would charge the unit (retired HVAC guy) told me to do that. Would the compressor continuously run if low on refrigerant despite a functional sensor or could the new sensor I bought be the issue? I figured it would shut it off as you can turn the knob to off and it turns it off. Tonight I'm going to put probe end in a big glass of ice water instead of just holding an ice cube to the end. Thanks again Iceman, you're an asset.

[THE ICEMAN]

Chances are that your original control was still good. The ice test would not necessarily work. Those type of controls don't sense air temp, they sense the evaporator coil temp which can be much colder than an ice cube. For example: an aftermarket control I used to use a lot for beer boxes, a Ranco A12-700, has an adjustable cut-out temp of 18

[THE ICEMAN]

The server is screwing up again... More later...

[djshakes]

Chances are that your original control was still good. The ice test would not necessarily work. Those type of controls don't sense air temp, they sense the evaporator coil temp which can be much colder than an ice cube. For example: an aftermarket control I used to use a lot for beer boxes, a Ranco A12-700, has an adjustable cut-out temp of 18

Thank Iceman, but I think I am thoroughly confused now but am trying to make sense of it. So maybe because my coils aren't producing enough cold air because low on refrigerant than it is not tripping the thermostat? I wonder if there is a way I can test with an ohm meter. For example, if I connect my DMM to the thermostat and when I turn the knob through the various settings I should get different readings? Although I am sure that isn't the problem, as a new one didn't fix it, I would love to rule it out. Or I just say screw it, charge it and plug it into my external temp outlet that should be here tomorrow, call it a day. I would assume I run the unit at 9 (coldest) once I set that external temp shut off plug to desired temp settings, let it take over the work of the thermostat.

[THE ICEMAN]

Chances are that your original control was still good. The ice test would not necessarily work. Those type of controls don't sense air temp, they sense the evaporator coil temp which can be much colder than an ice cube. For example: an aftermarket control I used to use a lot for beer boxes, a Ranco A12-700, has an adjustable cut-out temp of 18

Continued from my previous attempt at a post...

...18 degrees to 26 degrees & a constant cut-in temp of 37 degrees. This type of control's capillary tube/sensor is in physical contact with the evaporator. However, if your control's sensor runs though a tube mounted to the back of the cabinet sensing the air coming off the evaporator coil, the numbers would be much higher I prefer the type where the sensor is in contact with the coil, more accurate IMO.

In due respect to your friend, HVAC is a different animal than Low-temp. When he charges your unit, have him pull a vacuum on the system first if possible or at least bring the system to zero psi & then carefully weigh in 3.75 ozs of refrigerant. Refer him to my instructions on my previous post. FWIW: I had worked on those types of units for about 27 years or so. In other words, I have seen your type of problem many times before.


THE ICEMAN

[djshakes]

Fully understood. He was a refrigerator guy. I'm sorry, thought it was synonymous with hvac. My only other question is even if it isn't getting cold enough shouldn't the compressor shut off to cycle? My never does.

FYI, you were right, my original thermostat is good. Just checked it and got .01 ohm when on

[djshakes]

We added freon like iceman said. I met a retired low temp guy and he was happy to help. Showed me some tricks, etc. We vacuumed it, charged and I used my external thermostat from link above which I really like. It's hovering between 36 and 40 degrees now. Hope it lasts.

[THE ICEMAN]

Fully understood. He was a refrigerator guy. I'm sorry, thought it was synonymous with hvac. My only other question is even if it isn't getting cold enough shouldn't the compressor shut off to cycle? My never does.

FYI, you were right, my original thermostat is good. Just checked it and got .01 ohm when on...

******************
We added freon like iceman said. I met a retired low temp guy and he was happy to help. Showed me some tricks, etc. We vacuumed it, charged and I used my external thermostat from link above which I really like.It's hovering between 36 and 40 degrees now. Hope it lasts.

First of all, it's good to hear you're back in business. The reason you're compressor was not shutting off is because the unit was low on refrigerant. R134a has a boiling point of somewhere around -15 & the way it works in an evaporator is when the air flows through the coil the R134a will pull the heat from the air causing it to boil off or "evaporate". If the evaporator coil isn't full of refrigerant then that can't happen & the cabinet temp never gets cold enough to shut down the compressor.

Unless your friend did something to repair the leak, like the Stop-Leak I mentioned above, you can be sure you will be having this problem again. Keep a close eye on it & check for any ice buildup like you had before. If it lasts only 2-3 months then you have a fairly good leak, if it lasts 10 to 12 months or more then you have a relatively small leak.


THE ICEMAN