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want to add a kegerator to my camper.

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  • want to add a kegerator to my camper.

    OK looking at the brochure for my camper I noticed that there was an option for a Kegerator where a cabinet sits now that I do not use. What I want to do is take the Dandy kegerator I have and install it in that opening. My question is today I have a tower cooler and with the Tap coming out of the wall I am not sure how I can Cool the tower. if I am over thinking this let me know But the kegerator will be installed in the wall and on the side somewhere I will need to have a Faucet coming out the side. this is in a 43' toy hauler that I am tired of loading and unloading my kegerator every time. I do this purely for the environment as you know a weekend camping can create quite a few empties

  • #2
    A short run from kegerator top to mounted tap 6' and under can easily and cheaply be cooled by forced air tower fan and PVC pipe.. The shorter the span the better the efficiency. The least amount of 90 deg angles the better also. In tight space like a camper I would imagine you meet all this criteria.

    What may be an issue for you is the space surrounding the unit and the enclosure. Unless your Dandy vents in front of the unit, you need for efficiency and compressor life a 3" to 6" air gap around the sides and back of the unit since this is where the heat exchange takes place.

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    • #3
      PVC is a great idea. The space I am putting it in was designed for 1 of 3 options. 1 Cabinet. (I have this now) 2. Kegerator 3. Washer Dryer. I have not removed the cabinet insert yet but it is suppose to have power and water back there already. i also know there is a vent that goes out for the Dryer vent. I am hoping this will help with cooling. But maybe not. I will have 3.5" wider than what the Dandy is. This will go under the stairs that go up to the Loft for the kids. I do have the Tower cooler fan in there. pushes alot of air. I did not think about the 3-6" around the back side I will have to see what I can do there.
      the garage on the toy hauler does have AC so that may help. I think the PCV would work I will check that out to see if that will be the trick. it is about a 14" run from the front of the Kegerator to the front of the Tower.

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      • #4
        This should work. Luevors all the way up both 2" gap on front between the sides for air intake. P.C. fan forcing air out the dryer vent. Will move enough air to expelled the heat. One foot and a half easily cooled with tower fan and pvc.
        You will have to use 2 " pvc with foam pipe wrap around the outside (hardware store, cheap). A 1" flex tube inside that along with beer line blowing air all the way up the pvc to the tap shank. You will be of course removing the tower and sealing the pvc to keg top with short wood screws and silicone for a tight seal. Same where the pvc mets the back where you mounted the tap shank.

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        • #5
          As far as removing the tower. call me crazy but I was thinking about something like this https://www.kegworks.com/24-wall-shank-assembly inside the PVC that is covered in insulation. I was thinking just put it in there and run the shank into the original tower? Found this today. Do you think this is a terrible idea?

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          • #6
            Might be problematic. You would have to put a 90 deg bent in it right. With this small Dia tube it's easy to get a crimp in the bent joint that will restrict the flow and may cause foaming issues. Also you would still need to run PVC from tower top 90'ed to / sealed to the wall around the shank. Personally I don't see any real advantage to this.

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            • #7
              My current setup does not have a 90 deg bend it is actually straight out of the shank

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              • #8
                Can't see any benefit to this, and likely more of a pain in the neck. You'll have this thin walled tube sticking into the tower. As the camper is bounding down the road that tube will be moving around in the hole and getting bent / pushed and whatever else. I think the more practical approach would be making the rigid section as small as possible and rely on flexible beer line as much as possible. Also a hassle to clean, beer line you throw away.
                What I have: Haier two tap, 525 faucets, tower cooler, 10' lines

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                • #9
                  Great point on the bouncing around. Give me more to think about. I have found a 14" shank that may be a better option. thanks for all your replies this will take some going over.

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                  • #10
                    Still can't see why you are so dead set on the long shank idea. Still hard to clean, still no benefit.
                    What I have: Haier two tap, 525 faucets, tower cooler, 10' lines

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                    • #11
                      I am not actually.

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