Need some input on designing a 3 tap BM23

[KillianBoy]

UniqueUserName,
1) You have to use your own screws, best sheet metal screws and you still have to drill small holes to secure to metal.

2) Wait on a BM-23 pro on where to drill but to secure to sheet metal all you need is 1/8-1/4 inch long screws, you can use a drill stop attachment to make sure you don't drill too deep. You can look for yourself and see exactly where to drill to prevent problems.

3) Really not dumb question, yup it locks the adjustment knob from drifting.

4) Don't know if faucets are nipples or 90 degree, if 90 degree the best way is get a 1 inch box wrench and cut a gap for beer line, this is the simplest way, if nipple, you probably can just cut beer line off at nipple. On how to replace, check my newbie thread.

5) Not sure will check, was going to say, you don't really need, honestly just get a $12 thermometer from some big box store. Checked really you don't need, this meant for coolers, you could mount anyway you want but above mentioned thermometer is all you need. The only temperature you need to monitor is the beer temperature (as it comes out of faucet).
KB

[UniqueUserName]

Thanks for the info.

Regarding question #4 above: I know how to remove the beer line and how to reattach new line to the 90 degree elbow shanks. My issue is that the beer line connects to the shank way up near the top of the tower, The tower is only 3" in diameter, and I have fat hands, so I need to remove the top to be able to get to the connections. Once I get the top removed and get into the tower, I think I'll be fine. Does anyone have a reco on removing the top of the tower? I don't see anything external that is holding it together, so do I just try to pop the top off by pushing up through the inside with a rod? I don't want to break anything...

[djc]

It pops right off, use your finger nails. Or a stick from inside.

[KillianBoy]

UniqueUserName,
Sorry, most are troubled about how to take the shank off tower not cap off tower (though there were a couple), it is basically held in by friction, the rubber gasket can be a little tight.
KB

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

A few more questions while I wait for my BM23 to arrive...

1) I assume I use screws to mount my secondary regulators to the back wall, correct? (rather than drilling)... What size screws? I read that the screws should be <1/4" in length. Is that correct? The 3 regulator bank has a mounting bracket already attached, but it didn't come with any screws. I used self tapping sheet metal screws #8x5/8" I think I mentioned in prior posts be careful along left inner wall. Check back of unit for idea where the refrigeration line is. (small separate strip)

2) Based on input on this thread, I shouldn't put screws on the LEFT side of the back wall. I'm gonna need to put a screw in at least 1 of the 2 brackets on teh left side. Should I do top or bottom? Once I get the Bm23 delivered, I'll be able to take a look, but I wanted to get input if someone already knew what to do while i wait. see answer above. I will also post my pick below where to I avoided it.

3) REALLY dumb question: On the Micromatic Premium secondary regulators, there's a knob to adjust pressure and a another thin nut just below it. What's that nut for? Do you tighten it against the main knob to lock the pressure?YES

4) My tower came with 5' of quality beer line for each faucet. I'd have to completely disassemble the tower to change to a longer line because there are 3 faucets with the short elbow shanks near the top. Anyone have experience taking a tower apart? Tips on how to make it run smoothly? I purchased this tower off Birdman Brewing (with upgraded Perlick faucets): Draft Beer Kegerator Tower Stainless Steel Triple Faucet Its a pain in the ***... Either buy an expensive tower wrench or make on out of a 1" wrench and dremel a slot in it.

5) I purchased a Sure Temp liquid thermometer. There's no bracket with the thermometer. Any tips on mounting to the side of the BM23? e.g. mounting location, where to find a mounting bracket, size of screw...Should of came with clamp if you bought from micromatic.

Again, thanks sooooooo much for all the help. I found out that the liquor store 5min from my house can get all the 1/6 kegs I could want - St Bernardus Apt 12, Tripel Karmeliet, Unibroue La Terrible, etc... I'm gonna start with Fat Tire as an inexpensive everyday beer to pilot my system before I put one of the more expensive beers at risk... I have all the parts, and now I'm just waiting for the BM23 to arrive... Congrats. let us know if more questions.

B

[UniqueUserName]

PointPleasantNJBeerguy,

I've watched your video a few times, but the high res image above is very helpful to see screw placement, etc.

What is the rubber square mat on the bottom of your kegerator? Where did you get it? Do you have to clean it, or does it stay pretty clean?

[KillianBoy]

UniqueUserName,
Another member asked the same question, I'll link the thread:

http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-en/kegerators-and-kegerator-kits-home/13994-beverage-air-b23-b-protective-mat.html?highlight=mats

KB

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

Thanks for finding that link KB.
Those mats are more a soft plastic material. Sturdy and not too soft where they cant hold up kegs. I used four of them and just used a pair of snips to trim them down to size. And a little snip to fit around front edge to close door.

[UniqueUserName]

Thanks for the links. Got some versa-mats today.

Regarding secondary regulator placement, where is the strip that I need to avoid? I don't see anything on the inside. Is it the vertical strip on the back that has all the coolant lines, etc that I need to avoid?

I was thinking of mounting in the spot shown in this pic. Would that work? Also, is it best to mark the screw locations and partially install the screw and fit the regulator mounts just before tightening, OR install the screws through the mounts directly. I'm an idiot, and I want to do it the easiest way possible.

image.jpg

[THE ICEMAN]

Thanks for the links. Got some versa-mats today.

Regarding secondary regulator placement, where is the strip that I need to avoid? I don't see anything on the inside. Is it the vertical strip on the back that has all the coolant lines, etc that I need to avoid?

I was thinking of mounting in the spot shown in this pic. Would that work? Also, is it best to mark the screw locations and partially install the screw and fit the regulator mounts just before tightening, OR install the screws through the mounts directly. I'm an idiot, and I want to do it the easiest way possible.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3001[/ATTACH]

You should be fine mounting to the inside of the cabinet as long as... You will notice as you look at the back of the unit you will see a channel running from the condensing unit up to the evaporator inside. As long as your screws don't line up with that channel, you will have no problem.


THE ICEMAN

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

You will be perfectly fine mounting like that.Just dont use the lower left mount tab. the other three tabs with a screw will hold fine..

[UniqueUserName]

You should be fine mounting to the inside of the cabinet as long as... You will notice as you look at the back of the unit you will see a channel running from the condensing unit up to the evaporator inside. As long as your screws don't line up with that channel, you will have no problem.


THE ICEMAN

To clarify, there's a vertical strip on the back of the unit that is the "no screw zone". I attached a pic of it. If that's not it, please lemme know... I measured the strip to be 2"-3.5" from the outer side of the unit. Then I went inside the unit and measured the side wall to be 1.5" thick. So as long as I don't put a screw 0.5"-2" from the interior side wall, I should be fine. Only one out of the 4 mounting brackets is in that area, so I'll use the other 3.

A few questions:
1) In my pic above showing my planned secondary regulator placement, does anyone have concerns with it sitting that low? I assume it's fine as long as I can attach the gas lines to the regulator, but wanted to confirm.
2) Per my question above, what's the best process to mount the regulator? It's HEAVY and in a small space, so I can't hold the regulator bank while installing the screws through the brackets. I'm planning to mark spots for the top 2 screws, install them halfway, then hook the regulator to the top 2 screws, tighten, and then install the 3rd (and final) screw to complete the mounting. Is that the easiest way?

Sorry for all the small questions, but I'm NOT a handyman and this kegerator ain't cheap

image.jpg

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

To clarify, there's a vertical strip on the back of the unit that is the "no screw zone". I attached a pic of it. If that's not it, please lemme know... I measured the strip to be 2"-3.5" from the outer side of the unit. Then I went inside the unit and measured the side wall to be 1.5" thick. So as long as I don't put a screw 0.5"-2" from the interior side wall, I should be fine. Only one out of the 4 mounting brackets is in that area, so I'll use the other 3.YES thats the strip I was referring to.Like I said just don't use the bottom left mounting tab and you will be just fine.The regulator will be secure with just three screws.

A few questions:
1) In my pic above showing my planned secondary regulator placement, does anyone have concerns with it sitting that low? I assume it's fine as long as I can attach the gas lines to the regulator, but wanted to confirm. Not sure why you want to mount so low?? Its easier access if mounted as high as possible. You will thank yourself when reaching behind kegs to adjust pressure or shut off a co2 line.plus you will still be able to use the back step to put some cans or bottles on if needed.Only thing I can think of to maybe mounting slightly lower than center of primary regulator is because the three product secondary will be in the way of the primary regulator.
2) Per my question above, what's the best process to mount the regulator? It's HEAVY and in a small space, so I can't hold the regulator bank while installing the screws through the brackets. I'm planning to mark spots for the top 2 screws, install them halfway, then hook the regulator to the top 2 screws, tighten, and then install the 3rd (and final) screw to complete the mounting. Is that the easiest way?Hold up to desired mounting position. Mark spots with a sharpie marker, then get yourself a punch or a nail and hold up to marks and give a few hits with hammer to indent the marks(so screws don't walk on you out of position) Then use some self tapping sheet metal screws to drive in with a power drill. (just don't over tighten the screws or they will just spin)

[UniqueUserName]

PointPleasantNJBeerguy: The low mounting of the secondary was to allow room for the primary. Based on your pics, the secondary looked very close to the primary, and adding a 3rd secondary would interfere. I'll try to get it as high as I can while making room for everything.

Regarding the screws, did you use self TAPPING or self DRILLING screws? I thought self drilling was needed if there wasn't already a hole, but you used self tapping.

Also, it's REALLY hard to hold up the triple bank secondary due to weight. I was going to start the top 2 screws before hanging he regulator on them and tightening. Then add the 3rd screw. The way you described your process, it sounded like you just drilled the screws while they were in the bracket. Any issues with my approach?

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

Sorry should of said self drilling screws...As far as holding while screwing put one or two screws in 1/2 way with out regulator in there since mounting tabs have slotted hole to slide onto screw. then let the screw hold the reg up while putting in next screw(kinda like you already stated).OR also start all holes remove screws then re set screws with holes already there will make install alot easier.
You could mount just slightly lower than center to clear tank guage of primary.you can see alittle better from this pic you probably would have an issue mounting in line with primary.