WTF did I get myself into....

[djc]

Air temp or liquid? Also make sure you door seals are good - put a flashlight inside the unit and turn off the lights. Look at the sides to see if there is any light getting out. One other thing to be mindful of is that the air you are forcing up the tower needs to get back down and often times you have to enlarge the hole to do that.

[BKBuilds]

Its the air temp. I switched back to the setup I had before with just a battery fan blowing air around inside the refrigerator. I'll see what the temps look like when I get home from work. The door seal was not fully set since I was running the power wire for the tower cooler out of the door. I don't want to drill into anything until I know where its safe to drill.

[djc]

Air temp is unreliable and you aggravated it by the wire running past the seal. On the hump at the back of the unit, behind the CO2 bottle, is there a drain hole?

[BKBuilds]

Imagine that... It actually does have the drain hole you speak of!

[pvs6]

So I went back to look at your photos more closely to confirm that it's safe to drill the top right hand back corner where on other units the Co2 line enters. Good news and bad news. Good there are no coolant lines on the top, bottom and back of unit (exception being the back where the cold plate supply and return line enter up throught the back shelf). On the cold plate that little cut out notch top right corner where you see the line exit off the plate and go back down through the shelf is where the Co2 line hole is run. Drilled between the cold plate and the line and the bottom of the notch. It's safe to drill a small hole there to run power supply lines, silicone seal it when wires are in place.

The only place left then for the coolant lines is the sides of the unit. Those lines are in direct contact with the metal sides of the unit. They S loop all down the side then run across the very front of the floor of the unit just behind where the bottom door seal makes contact. Then S loop up the other side. The reason they are connected to the sides of the unit is because they use those surfaces as a radiator to disipate the heat.


Now the Bad News.

As the label says on the back of your unit this is a stand alone only unit. Their way of saying it can't be built in and that it needs air space round it to allow it to radiate off the heat it is removing from the keg space. The compressor gets hot when running 100 to 150 degrees is about normal. It needs to cool back down to room temp. again before cycling back on if it is to be efficient. All of the units literature I've seen seen call for 3 inches min if not more from the back of the unit to the wall. Yours appear via your photos to be pushed back tight against the wall. Easy fix just move them forward 3 inches. It also appears in the photos that the units are resting against one another. If this is the case you will cut the cooling efficiency rate in half on both units since your are only allowing one side of each unit to radiate off heat. I would think that you would need at very least 6 inches between them and maybe a fan blowing through the seperation pushing the built up heat out of the confinement.

When it's running and the compressor has been on for a minute or 2 put your hand on the side and feel how much heat is being generated there and you will see that only allowing one side of the unit to release all this heat is not what it was designed for. It will keep the compressor from cooling back down in the off cycle. Also force a shorter off cycle and a longer on cycle since it has to work twice as hard to removed heat, deprived of 1/2 it's radiating surface. This could one might imagine cut the unit's lifetime also in half.

It looks like you have room to allow the min of 3 inches in back, 3 on the out sides and 6 in between the middle. Personally I'd want more or some fan forced air ventilation around both units. Sorry to be a wet blanket but thought you should know this could be a problem.

[BKBuilds]

Actually there is just over 5 inches of space between the back of the unit and the wall. This is due to the large double wide power strip I installed behind them to accommodate the tower fan power.

[djc]

Run the wire through the drain hole.