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BM-23 Stock Tower Cooler Questions

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  • BM-23 Stock Tower Cooler Questions

    I am hooking up my Beverage Air BM23's stock "Tower Cooler" hose, and I am not sure where you "Hook" the end that goes to the tower to. Does it just hook to the lip at the bottom inside of the tower, or at the top, to the 90* elbow of the shank.

    The end of the hose that connects the the evaporator housing, doesn't sit very flush on the surface, is that how it is supposed to be, or are you supposed to thread/screw the hose itself into the hole in the evap housing?


    I have been playing around with it, and it seems to only blow cold air (and very slightly at that) when the door is open. When I close the door, and try to feel the air in the tower, I feel nothing until I open the door. Is that normal?

  • #2
    whiplash willy,
    "at the top, to the 90* elbow of the shank". It should blow directly on the shank/faucet, hook should be over shank. It is unusual airflow stops when you close door. Used BM-23 members have reported that hose (from pictures I have seen should be between dial and fan) goes in and out, it shouldn't be flush, it should stick inside a few inches (or whatever length that it doesn't get in your way).
    If you need more help, pictures would help.
    KB

    Comment


    • #3
      Blower hose should only go into evap housing a few coils. To much and it won't feed air into it properly. And the other end hooks to the shank like KB says..
      If not blowing sufficient air.
      Is this a used unit? And if so make sure the hose isn't torn at all.
      What I got:
      Beverage Air #BM23
      with a "Sexy" Double Faucet Tower and Celli Eurpean Faucets
      -MM Premium Double Guage Primary Regulator
      -MM Premium 2 Product Secondary Regulator
      -MM S/S Keg Couplers
      YouTube video of the goods

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks guys! I know now I don't have it hooked up properly. It is a used unit, but I bought a new hose from Mircomatic. I will re-attach/fit and see how that works. On a side note, PointPleasantNJBeerguy, for the drip tray drain bottle, where can you get a lid with the fitting on it? I only see the bottle itself on the parts sites, no lid.

        Thanks!

        Comment


        • #6
          Thanks for the link!

          So I was able to hook the tower end of the hose on the shank, however I can't get the other end of the hose threaded into the evap housing. The hose is just too big to fit into the small hole in the evap housing. That wire bracket to hold it on doesn't do that good of a job holding it in place either. The hose is new, from micromatic, but is the exact same size as the old crusty one.

          Any tips on how I can get it connected. Now, no matter what I try, the evap end of the hose will not sit flush.

          BM23TowerCool1s_zps84211cf0.jpg

          Comment


          • #7
            undo the screw holding the hose to evap housing.turn it down the hose a few links, then give the hose a pinch while pushing in.After you get on link in you should be able to "screw" hose in following the wire frame of it.
            What I got:
            Beverage Air #BM23
            with a "Sexy" Double Faucet Tower and Celli Eurpean Faucets
            -MM Premium Double Guage Primary Regulator
            -MM Premium 2 Product Secondary Regulator
            -MM S/S Keg Couplers
            YouTube video of the goods

            Comment


            • #8
              Originally posted by whiplash willy View Post
              Thanks for the link!

              The hose is just too big to fit into the small hole
              Don't you hate when your hose is too big to fit in the small hole....
              Last edited by PointPleasantNJBeerguy; 11-04-2014, 03:07 PM.
              What I got:
              Beverage Air #BM23
              with a "Sexy" Double Faucet Tower and Celli Eurpean Faucets
              -MM Premium Double Guage Primary Regulator
              -MM Premium 2 Product Secondary Regulator
              -MM S/S Keg Couplers
              YouTube video of the goods

              Comment


              • #9
                Yea...thats a hard problem to have....

                I did finally get it in though! I rotated the bracket back, and put the lip of the hose (white wire part) in the hole, then worked around the opening pushing it in, and eventually I finally wedged it in there!

                IMG_3823_zps7d666335.jpg

                This weekend I will be hooking up a Pony Keg of Hopworks Deluxe Organic Ale (DOA). I am excited to finally get to use this thing! Hopefully it all goes well Sanitary wise!

                Thanks for your help all!
                Last edited by whiplash willy; 11-12-2014, 09:19 AM.

                Comment


                • #10
                  Here are a couple more of pics:

                  IMG_3827_zps78734b8d.jpg
                  IMG_3826_zps0cf1084f.jpg
                  IMG_3821_zps656c8de0.jpg

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    whiplash willy,
                    Good to hear, make sure you have some insulation in the inside of the tower, some members have slide beer koozies on the tower to help insulate tower,
                    I can't see why it wouldn't be sanitary, looks like new faucet (maybe shank?), run a brush through the probe of the coupler and new beer line you should be fine. You MAY have to go longer beer line, but everything looks good.
                    Remember it is called a DRIP tray, it is made to catch the drip from the faucet, it isn't made to throw foam (beer) away, just catch the drip from the faucet.
                    KB

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      The plate, it is just so I don't have to set the coupler down on the dirty kegerator floor. I am sure I will be fine because anything that touches the beer is either new, or Stainless that and has been disassembled and cleaned. I just get nervous because I had a contamination issue with a keg in the past, and had to end up dumping it

                      New Stainless Shank
                      New Beer Line
                      New Gas Line
                      Replaced all seals on the perlick and disassembled/cleaned
                      Replaced all seals and disassembled/cleaned coupler (All Stainless)

                      All of the hose fittings are new and stainless.

                      My beer line is 5ft, how long should it be?
                      Last edited by whiplash willy; 11-12-2014, 09:23 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        I have the tower insulated as well.

                        BM23TowerCool2s_zps226fd3e9.jpg

                        Comment


                        • #15
                          whiplash willy,
                          Sorry I noticed the condensation on the tower, what you have is sufficient but if too much condensation, look into a outside tower insulation or a adhesive type foam on the inside.
                          Look at my newbie thread, most members in this section can deal with 7+ feet of 3/16 ID, this will help slow the flow of beer if you have heavy foam.
                          Can you relate what your contamination issue was? Was it with old beer line, old check ball ? (was there a check ball?) was it on CO2 100% of the time (use of hand pump?). If you used brand new line with cleaned (not replaced seals) faucet and coupler, I can't see any contamination problems, I've used that set-up on an old abused Haier and worked perfectly, the only 2 seals I changed were the keg seal on the coupler (no contact with beer) and the seal the stops beer from flowing out (though I used that seal for 2-4 kegs with not off taste), tough an old check ball can cause major taste problems (but taking out will solve problem), sorry I'm just curious.
                          KB

                          Comment

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