Flat as a tire that has a nail in it

[hesstondc]

NEWBIEEEEEEE!

Purchased my Haier on craiglist. Let it sit overnight with a glass of water and it had ice in the glass over night. So fiqured it was doing its thing.... temp was low around 36-38

Put a 1/4 barrell of miller light tonight. Been playing with PSI. Seems as if 8-10 works for least amount of foam. I pulled the pressure release valve on the tap at least 4-5 times while resetting. But beer is FLAT or at least it seems that way, i can drink it...afterall it is beer. But would like it to be refreshing. What am I doing wrong experts. I did alot of research before I purchased the kegerator and I know it has its problems but it was $200 bucks! I couldn't turn it down. How do I get this thing to be refreshing?

I left it hooked up for a few hours. Found beer in the bottom of the kegerator when I got home. Beer was pooled around the tap where it attached to the keg. I might have had the PSI to high on the CO2 will know more in the morning since I turned the pressure down.

I didn't get an op manual with this unit so I am winging it......

thanks guys and WAR EAGLE
clay

Clay
Knoxville tn

[Hophead]

Beer in the bottom of the kegerator has nothing to do with the CO2 pressure. Either your coupler is bad or the keg has a problem (most likely the coupler).

Any used kegerator should get all new hardware from Micromatic - new lines, new coupler, new faucet.

Miller Lite MUST have 14-15 PSI CO2 pressure at 38 degrees beer temp. Anything less will result in foamy, flat beer. It's a tough beer (like Coors Light) to have in a kegerator and have pour and taste right but it can be done. You have to be able to take the temp of a second beer poured into a glass. That's the only way to know the temp of the beer in the keg!

I also recommend changing the beer line from 5 feet to 8 feet. 5 ft, 3/16" beer line (standard) works fine for most beers but light, commercial beers that require 14+ PSI just seem to pour better will a longer beer line (slows the pour). However, if you decide to try getting it to pour properly with the standard 5 ft beer line (most likely what you have now) it can be done.

I know a bit about pouring Miller Lite since it's what I have in my kegerator 2/3rds of the year. If everything isn't 100% perfect (spotless clean parts, right temp (37-38 F). right pressure (14 PSI), clean glass, etc., it will pour foamy!

[KillianBoy]

hesstondc,
All is not lost, first search forum keyword “flat” this will inform you as to how to re-carbonate the keg. There isn’t much in manual that can’t be found on this site, in the LEARN tab, if you want to a manual, Haier has the manual on their website, as a PDF. First I would disconnect coupler, inspect coupler, look at the first picture part 9 is the washer between coupler and keg, check for cracks or torn rubber.

If fine look to the second picture I think stock beer line looks like this, make sure the you have the washer, if your missing this piece it will leak. If you were missing the washer, you can get one here at MM or your local homebrew shop.

If you can’t find washer locally, best to order that, beer line, tail piece, nut and clamps from MM in one order. I’d order extra washers, spare parts for the coupler. Faucet is more tricky, Haier sometimes uses non-standard parts, MM faucet didn’t fit on my Haier shank, if you order a new faucet make sure buy a shank from MM. Right now the leak and flat beer are you major problems, the leak could be as simple as a missing washer or as bad a deficient coupler.

Just go through parts one at a time and check for worn parts or missing parts then reassemble and try and re-carbonate. Don’t despair its really not that bad, try to solve one problem at a time.

KB

[hesstondc]

I am missing the seal to the beer line for sure. I just have a flat piece of metal there. I am going to see if I can find one at HD to get me started. I will order more beer line tomorrow morning. Temperature in a glass of water is 36-38 degrees so I would think I am cooling enough. I will mod the beer tower eventually.

thanks for the help guys

clay

[KillianBoy]

clay,
Glad the leak was simple, remember beer line with connected nut only comes in 5 feet, and if you want lengthen to 8 feet you need to buy the pieces I mentioned. If your poison of choice is light beer I would lengthen to at least 9 feet then adjust from there (I would buy 20 feet +, one can never have enough beer line).

Buy as much as you think you need (or afford), the shipping cost is a little high so you can save a little by buying small items you may not need now but might need in the future. I replaced Part 9, bought couple extra part 10, parts 1 and 2 did not fit coupler that came with Haier, the check ball has been a source of bad tasting beer in other members’ couplers. Buy lots of washers (fiber for CO2 and neoprene for beer line). Also get the lube and cleaning brushes and the BLC.
Pouring light beer takes a perfect system, you need to get exact temperature of the beer in keg (temperature of a glass of water will tell you the temperature of a glass a water and not beer temperature). Look through forum, nearly every thread has best way to get temperature of beer, you will need to buy a digital thermometer.

After you get temperature of the beer then you can set the PSI (not set for best flow). Your going to need the tower cooler or a fan to get a constant even temperature in the Haier, you need to get one or the other in ASAP. But right now, it’s washer, beer line and components, thermometer and fan/tower cooler. If the cooling plate starts to ice up you may need an appliance timer.

KB

[cubby_swans]

Temperature in a glass of water is 36-38 degrees so I would think I am cooling enough.

You would think.... but you NEED to take the temperature of the beer in the glass, regardless. All you know is that a glass of water is 36-38 degrees. That's great to know, if you plan on drinking the glass of water. A keg can cool quite differently than a glass of water.

[hesstondc]

Well I have given up, I think my bottle is empty so I am going to have it refilled in the morning. I got a temp of 42 in the beer glass, but glass was hot. I had to the pressure at 12-13psi and it was sold foam.

I couldn't get the pressure to go higher so I believe I am out of gas. Tank is very light. Can a carbonate the beer again, or is it best to turn it in and start all over again. I will be gone for 4 days this week so if I get it in the morning and install then I will not touch it. Should get the proper temp then. I will have my wife watch and make sure things aren't freezing.

I am getting a new tap this week as well so I will just leave the keg untapped in the kegeratgor.

I will order some beer line tonight. What size do I need it says the average line is for 5' and less aplications....

Could the leak i had from the beer line cause the beer to go flat?

thanks for all the help

[KillianBoy]

Clay,
Sorry I was going to mention the CO2 but you had enough problems (I drained my tank after a small leak). After disconnecting from regulator, you can open main tank valve a little if hiss you still have gas, if nothing then refill, but after the slow leak overnight I think your empty and have flat beer.

When you mean hot you mean room temperature or "hot" like out of dishwasher, temps should be room temperature in glass of second pour.

Up to you if you want to give up on keg, guys and gals on forum have re-carbonated kegs before, depends on how much you have left anything over 1/2 left would be worth saving. If your not going to be home, and have no leaks in your system, full tank of CO2, regulator set for what people say to re-carbonate keg and 4 days left untouched, you might be able to revive keg, again search forum and see what people have to say.

Honestly freezing shouldn't be a concern, unless thermostat is turned full on (dial should be somewhere between 3/4 and 1/2 "normal")

New coupler is fine but would have gone with faucet/shank or regulator first, I think leaving untapped fine but other members might have opinions about that.

"What size do I need it says the average line is for 5' and less aplications...."

What???

For Miller Light go for 9+ of 3/16 ID and cut down from there.

The leak will cause the beer to go flat and the CO2 to escape, just like a tiny hole in a can of pop or beer, it will make it go flat.

KB

[hesstondc]

Just got new line 9' from micromatic, all new seals, new tap, and new seals for the faucet. hooked everything up, new keg has been at 40 for 5 days.

Just taped the keg and turned on C02 at 14psi, when can I make the first pour?
Going to go the gym for a bit and let the new lines cool down to temp for an hour or so. Fan box for the tower worked like a champ really cool idea

clay

[KillianBoy]

clay,
The faucet washers are a little tricky, Faucet Shaft Seat Washer (one that seals beer flow from shank) didn't fit well on the Haier I work on, it was a little big, hopefully there isn't a pool of beer when you come back. Other then that all good, I usually pull enough beer the fill lines before I let cool, so be prepared for a little foam on first pour. How are you getting this 40 degree temperature for 5 days? and make sure you fan box is sucking enough air (hold piece of paper over fan if bends toward fan then good away bad) and try not to open too often.

KB

[hesstondc]

KB first three tall glasses were solid foam at 14PSI...Cranked down to 10 PSI now only 1/2 foam...STILL FLAT...What in the hell is the problem here.

New bottle of CO2
New CO2 line
New beer line
All new conections and o rings.
Beer temp is 40 degrees...I turned it down two more click will let sit over night.
I just have no clue why I can't get a nice refreshing beer like a drank all week at the bar at the hotel....

I am about to give up!
Purchased the new keg of bud light on monday and it sat in the fridge un taped for 5 days.....It would have sat in the grocery store for that long....RRRRRR

All my co2 fitings are very tight....

One question I have....Do you still need an o ring to attach to the CO2 line into the tap...I don't see one in the illistration above. I didn't add one but I have all parts in like I see in the picture. Dang it...I am going to buy a 12 pack and think about this...ha

[hesstondc]

one more thing...could this be causing the keg to go flat.

I have been tinkering with the pressure on my regulator. in order to get the needle to move at all I have to back the screw out plus pull the release valve on the tap. If I have done that a few times will that make the beer go flat? I wouldn't think so.

If you open a 2 liter coke a few times it still keeps carbination.....

I am at my wits end here. I can make a combine, or big square baler work (i am in the farm equipment business) but keg beer is going to drive me crazy

thanks to anyone with help...I have set it at 12psi, turned down the temp.....and I am now in the waiting stage having a shot of burbon! ha

clay

[KillianBoy]

clay,
Pulling pressure release to get the gauge to move down a bit a few times should effect the carbonation of beer (I do the same thing). Part 10 in the coupler illustration is the gasket, it's the duck bill check valve (it prevents the beer from flowing to the regulator), you can try an disconnect to see if it is worn, but don't think so.

Did previous owner say he had problems, if so what kind? Did you take apart the faucet? You should clean the faucet that it looks like the attached diagram, part 6 and 9 in the Haier I work on was filthy.

Use large cup or pitcher, pour beer full and watch pour if white then clear, your close, if all white you have problems. If all white something disturbing the flow (sharp edge, dirt, misaligned washer, etc), if white then clear might just be temp differences. Check temp of second beer. If there wasn't beer in the line then it could have become super cold and caused the temps differences then foam. You can try and pour to beer turns clear, then switch glasses and see that solves foam problem.


You said

"new keg has been at 40 for 5 days"

How was this temperature taken if you didn't pour beer, if it was water in glass, some members have said water is about 5 degrees warmer then beer. Do not trust water in kegerator, it's inaccurate. Test the beer, it usually tells you temp of beer in keg.

You say new tap you mean coupler (the thing on top of the keg), if it's new, you sure it's the right type (D or S). If the thing on top of the keg is used, make sure it's clean, if new it should have been cleaned. Look at beer line, is there air pockets or patches of white? It should be clear and filled with beer.

When you tapped keg, was there any beer leaking or gas leaking from keg? I usually tap keg when I put in kegerator. Make sure the beer line doesn't touch cold plate, that can cause problems. 12 PSI should be fine overnight, if still not pouring well then reset to 14 (PSI shouldn't be changed to control flow only set to what the beer CO2 level is).

You sure the fan is pushing air up and not pulling air from the tower? If you don't think the tower cooler is working just put a small fan inside to circulate air.

Don't despair, take one problem at a time, slowly and methodically. Clean faucet, lines and coupler thoroughly, get beer to temp (not water) and set PSI to temp, then see.

KB

[hesstondc]

Problem one is beer temp!

2nd glass this morning and its 45 degrees...I almost have the thermostate on its coldest point. I am going to go to atlanta for the day and be back in the morning. I am going to sell the kegerator I don't have patience for it

Plus the back plate has Ice all over it...I don't think it is working right

clay

[psychodad]

Plus the back plate has Ice all over it...I don't think it is working right

This is likely due to your opening of the door often to work on this. Defrost the unit as this ice buildup is not letting the unit work efficiently

[KillianBoy]

hesstondc,

I guess it wasn’t such a good deal, if you wanted a worry free, buy a brand new Beverage Aire or True, of course you’d have lay down $800-1300. Buying a brand new Haier, Kenmore, Summit, Sanyo or Vissani won’t guarantee any problems, let alone a used unit. If you don’t have the patience for these units then don’t buy them, pay for the better unit.

By the way if you’re selling unit and giving up, why worry about the ice?

Last piece of advice before you sell the unit, read the forum, searching all posts regarding the Haier can solve most problems.

By the way, the ice is formed by too much moisture in unit and thermostat set a little high (I did say to where to set thermostat), problem can be solved by turning unit off at night using an appliance timer, (mentioned numerous times in forum). Ice is a fantastic insulator, once ice forms, plate won't get cold enough to keep your beer cold, you need to melt ice (there is a right and wrong way to get rid of ice, also in forum). I hope you understand patience is needed, unless you want to lay down serious money for the higher end units.

KB

[hesstondc]

Beer temp is chilly now 34 degrees, I got digital themometer

I gave up and turned the pressure down to 9-10 psi...Now I get a burp then foam then clear beer that tastes flat. Man oh man this is driving me nuts only thing left to replace now is the regulator....Could that be my foam problems....

If I went and got a micelob regular keg will that be better to pour...I just can't seem to get light beer working for me.....

Thanks KB

[Hophead]

You gotta get that temp under control. Based on your posts, it's either too warm or too cold. It's possible that the keg you have is just flat now and bringing it back to life might be too much work. Before you change it out though, I recommend you do everything you can to get consistant 38 degree pours over the course of a few days. Then, when you do get a new keg, let it sit in the keg for at least 24 hours before tapping it.

It's certainly possible that the regulator and/or gauge are no good but the only way to know is to get a quality one from Micromatic or install another gauge in the line between the tank and keg.

[hesstondc]

Question

Were beer line attaches to the top of the tap. Do you add a washer to the top and bottom of the fitting and then screw on. Just reading around the sight and it sounds like that is what you do but i can't find a print. I made the line up from scratch with parts and hose from micromatic. As of now I just have a washer at the bottom of the fitting and then screw on. I don't have one between the fitting and the metal piece that goes inside the beer line

thanks

[KillianBoy]

hesstondc,

There should be 1 washer on tap (coupler) side, it goes between the tap (coupler) and fitting (tailpiece).

Don't know what else to say to solve your problems, you haven't answered any of my questions, it seems you want quick answers, but there aren't any quick answers if you want it working right and don't care about price, I'd get a external temperature controller and a tower cooler, with these 2 you can stabilize the temperature, but will cost $100+.

In your new keg I'd set the PSI at 16, I know high but I think your regulator is off, if you want, you can do the flashlight test to see if the CO2 is breaking out at 14 PSI, and adjust from there.

If you get the 2 above it might solve most of your problems, if you do problems with new keg and need to post, start a new post in the home dispenser section instead of the commercial section, good luck.

KB