Air in line

[jefe]

I have recently noticed air collecting in my beer line, just above the coupler. Any ideas as to what is wrong?

[Scott Zuhse]

Out of gas? Kinked line? Temperature change? Did you change brands? Could be a number of things. Give us some detail.

Scott Zuhse, Instructor Micro Matic Dispense Institute

[jefe]

Two kegs from one split CO2 source. Shiner and Kirin now (I don’t think I have ever had the same beer twice in a row). I have never noticed air before, but never really looked. Both have air collecting above the coupler (about 1-2inches of air in tube). Recently changed CO2 tank. Kegs are in different coolers, so temperature control is separate so I do not believe temperature is problem.

Thanks in advance for your help

[Scott Zuhse]

What is the actual beer temperature and what is your pressure to the kegs?

Scott Zuhse, Instructor Micro Matic Dispense Institute

[Forced Induction]

I have what sounds like a very similar problem. Except I have been having it for years and just live with it. After I pour a beer, and open the fridge door, I can see bubbles migrating to the top of the beer line, (higest point in my system, coverted fridge), then after a minute or two there is an actual air gap in the line! How can that be? I just installed a brand new american sankey coupler and it still does it.

I only run about 2 psi of pressure, because when I drink Sam Adams I cannot control the foaming, so low pressure with very slow pouring is my only solution. I need some help with getting Sam to pour nicely with minimal head. Right now you get about half a glass of head no matter what I try. Obviously, the faucet does not flow with a full pipe because of the pressure, but more pressure makes it worse.

HELP??

Thanks in Advance.

** SORRY- I just realized this is posted in the commercial area, sorry.

[USMC - Retired]

Forced,
How long is your beer line? If it is less than six feet try installing a longer line to help control the foam. At 2 psi you beer sure to go flat in no time! This may also solve your air gap problem. Once you have a longer line in place get a good liquid beer temp and balance your system from there.

Semper Fi,
The Gunns

"Beer is proof that god loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin

[Forced Induction]

My beer line right now is probably only a little more than 2' long, and I have to check the ID because I'm pretty sure it is larger that 3/16. With a half barrel in the fridge the top of the coupler is very close to the top of the fridge, if I add Line I will have to put a big loop in the line because the faucet goes right out the side of the fridge. Does the size of the line make a big difference? We always run this low pressure and kegs seem to stay fresh for a month, but that is a different story. Do I need to raise the pressure and then pull off a pitcher to bleed any entrained air or what? I have tried to play with the pressure before and it seemed to have only negative effects. The size of the beer line is my biggest concern now, I am thinking it is probably close to 5/16 or 3/8 ID, I will check it tonight accurately.

[USMC - Retired]

Your line is definately too short, that is why you have foam. You need at least five foot of 3/16 inch vinyl beer line to get the right amount of resistance to the flow and stop your foam problems. Dont worry if you have extra line in the system coiled up, we all do. Just make sure not to close the line in the door or anything. Here is a link to where you can get the line.

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...s-cid-365.html

Semper Fi,
The Gunns

"Beer is proof that god loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin

[Forced Induction]

I got the info, not that we really need it any longer since it sounds like we found the problem, but here it is just for reference. I measured the temp in the fridge using the glass of water trick. Temp of the water was 37.1F, and then we poured a beer and checked its temp which came out to be 37.3F, so at least they agree. My beer line size is 5/16" I.D. and is only ~18" long, pressure is currently 2.5 psig. Boy talk about screwed up, I can't imagine how many other home keggers or even restraunts for that matter, make the same mistakes as me. I really learned a lot in the past day, thanks to you guys.

I am going to change the line to 6' of 3/16" as recomended, and will raise my pressure to ~12 psig. I'll report back after this is complete and let you know how I made out.

Oh, is it ok to use tygon tubing for beer transfer? It is food grade tubing.

Thanks again for the help, you guys are great!!

[USMC - Retired]

I've never heard of tygon tubing myself but if it is food grade and won't impart or absorb flavors it should be OK. Although I can't say if beer line cleaner may damage it... Scott should be able to tell....


Scott???

Semper Fi,
The Gunns

"Beer is proof that god loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin

[topgun3208]

we use Tygon in my lab at work, premium stuff

"So many great beers, so little time, and only one liver" Mark

[Scott Zuhse]

Tygon tubing is a brand name of vinyl tubing which is utilized in the food & beverage as well as medical field. It can impart a plastic flavor if used in large amounts and big diameters. 3/16" carries so little beer per foot that it is a non-issue.

As to the air pocket in the line and the low pressure. Yes, many retail accounts are screwed up as well. They may have had the correct set up at one time but eventually a warm keg was delivered by the distributor and of course, due to degassing, foam.

Foam appears to come out of the faucet very fast. The natural inclination would be for the retailer to reduce the pressure and "control the foam". Unfortunately the end result is high pour cost due to waste and lost resale from customers not wanting to reorder a flat beer.





Scott Zuhse, Instructor Micro Matic Dispense Institute