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Old 09-30-2006, 06:21 PM
brady brady is offline
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I just moved a keg from one kegerator to a converted fridge a couple days ago. When I pour, I get a big belch of air followed by foam each glass. Does anyone have any advice. This is a new conversion kit from micromatic. I have only poured about 10-12 beers so far after moving it.

38 degrees, 12 psi, Miller Lite
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Old 10-26-2006, 11:18 AM
brian92 brian92 is offline
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Most likely, the temp of the beer is higher than what you think. Air in the line means that co2 is escaping out of the beer. The higher the temp, the more pressure required to keep the co2 in the beer. At 38 and 12 PSI, you are fine. But if the beer is a higher temperature, you would need higher pressure (basic gas laws apply - PV=nRT). I would just make sure the beer is reading 38 degrees after you pour it.
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Old 10-26-2006, 11:27 AM
darck1 darck1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brady View Post
I just moved a keg from one kegerator to a converted fridge a couple days ago. When I pour, I get a big belch of air followed by foam each glass. Does anyone have any advice. This is a new conversion kit from micromatic. I have only poured about 10-12 beers so far after moving it.

38 degrees, 12 psi, Miller Lite
Could also be a kink in the line... check your fittings also, make sure they're all tight and you're using washers.
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Old 10-26-2006, 01:09 PM
larryhoy larryhoy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brady View Post
When I pour, I get a big belch of air followed by foam each glass. Does anyone have any advice.

38 degrees, 12 psi, Miller Lite
Had the exact same problem, chased it for a long time. I did two things, one of which worked. I'm not sure which, because they happened at the same time. I switched from Miller Draft to a 'winter' beer, Dundee Honey Brown; and I lowered my CO2 pressure to about 5 lbs. No foam. I will be increasing the pressure over time to see if the problem is CO2 pressure related (which is what I suspect).

After you draw a beer take a look at your beer line. Do you see a small string of bubbles coming from the keg coupler? Do they create an air pocket/bubble in the line? That was happening to my system, it isn't any more.
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Old 10-26-2006, 01:13 PM
darck1 darck1 is offline
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Had the exact same problem, chased it for a long time. I did two things, one of which worked. I'm not sure which, because they happened at the same time. I switched from Miller Draft to a 'winter' beer, Dundee Honey Brown; and I lowered my CO2 pressure to about 5 lbs. No foam. I will be increasing the pressure over time to see if the problem is CO2 pressure related (which is what I suspect).

After you draw a beer take a look at your beer line. Do you see a small string of bubbles coming from the keg coupler? Do they create an air pocket/bubble in the line? That was happening to my system, it isn't any more.
DO NOT DO THIS.

Never adjust your CO2 pressure for foam issues. Calculate what your CO2 pressure should be for the beer you're serving and the temperature it's at (and compensate for altitude above sea level). Then stick with it! If you have foam issues and your temperature and pressure are right (make sure temp is right by measuring the temperature of the 2nd beer your pour)

If you do what this guy did you will eventually end up with half a keg of flat beer.
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Old 10-26-2006, 11:31 PM
larryhoy larryhoy is offline
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DO NOT DO THIS....

...If you do what this guy did you will eventually end up with half a keg of flat beer.
Your previous suggestion was to check for a kink in the line, and check to see if all fitting are tight and washers are good. If these have been checked and double checked what would your suggestion be?

Specifically if you see a small stream of bubbles coming up the beer line from the keg? I've replaced my coupler, that made no difference. It has happened on the last three kegs.

Last edited by larryhoy : 10-26-2006 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 10-27-2006, 07:52 AM
beerboy52 beerboy52 is offline
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If you are getting the front of your shirt wet when youopen the faucet check three things.
1. Is the tip on the bottom of your coupler tight? (Some are adjustable-some not)
2. flashlight the keg neck and look at the rubber ring around the ball. Is there any kind of divot or chip or cut in it? If so, return it as the keg is defective. There is nothing you could or should do to fix it.
3. flashlight the large bottom washer on the bottom of the coupler. Is it mashed or mis-shapen? Is it cut or out of round? If so, replace it. Pull it off and put a new one on using a screwdriver (like putting a tire on a rim).

I think this should solve your 'blast' problem.
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Old 12-14-2006, 10:31 AM
jayfredweb jayfredweb is offline
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Originally Posted by beerboy52 View Post
If you are getting the front of your shirt wet when youopen the faucet check three things.
1. Is the tip on the bottom of your coupler tight? (Some are adjustable-some not)
2. flashlight the keg neck and look at the rubber ring around the ball. Is there any kind of divot or chip or cut in it? If so, return it as the keg is defective. There is nothing you could or should do to fix it.
3. flashlight the large bottom washer on the bottom of the coupler. Is it mashed or mis-shapen? Is it cut or out of round? If so, replace it. Pull it off and put a new one on using a screwdriver (like putting a tire on a rim).

I think this should solve your 'blast' problem.

Is this what you mean in number 2??? See the gash in the ring (at about 2 o'clock)??

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Old 12-14-2006, 11:41 AM
Scott Zuhse Scott Zuhse is offline
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Ouch! That isn't just a tear or cut, that is a crater! The pressure will byp*** the keg and will drive itself right into the beer stream as it leaves the keg. Take this back for a refund.

As to the move to the refrigerator form the kegerator. You must determine the temperature of the beer at the keg after it has acclimated to it's new home. At 38F, you may want to adjust to 14 PSIG. 12 may take care of gas equilibrium at the keg but may not do the job when the faucet is open.

Conduct a pressure leak test. Gauges are difficult to set correctly if the system is not tight. Finally, the faucet and shank will probably pick up some heat and this will cause gas breakout right behind the faucet. Not much can be done to overcome this. Recommendation would be to allow this initial shot of foam to hit the gl***, then close faucet. Dump this small amount of waste out and start over with clear beer. You will be much more successful pouring the beer since it is physically impossible to pour clear beer on top of foam.

As to dropping the pressure to five pounds to overcome dispensing issues. No, unless the Dundee Honey Nut Brown Ale is already flat off of the packaging line. Find out what the specification of carbonation in volumes is and that will determine the PSIG for your dispensing system.

Or you can do the same thing that hundreds of bartenders perform at retail everyday - keep tipping the foam off of the gl*** as they dispense until they think they have a good gl*** of beer. Not! This bad habit results in substantial waste and flat beer since they knocked all the carbonation out of the beer while dispensing.
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Last edited by Scott Zuhse : 12-14-2006 at 12:22 PM.
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