I searched and read a few things on this forum regarding my issue. I wanted to create a new thread for my problems for my reference.
I purchased a Danby from homedepot. So far so good!
I did the 100k ohm resistor mod
I got beer temps in the 35-37 range (2nd pour)
Co2 pressure around 13-14psi (I was at 10psi but noticed air in the beer line)
I was pouring almost perfect beers this past sat then last night I was getting almost 80% of foam. Before I left for work, I gave it a quick pull and the foam is still there. I have 1/4 keg of miller. Any idea what could have caused this? Could it be that the keg temp is cooler than before? Is there an equation as to what PSI for what temp?
You're not exactly blazing new trail with Danby foam issues. I think the general consensus is that the Danby's require more than just the resistor mod. See the "Danby Kegerator Improvements" sticky thread in the "Kegerators & Kegerator Kits @ Home" forum for no less than 3 years worth of experimentation.
You're not exactly blazing new trail with Danby foam issues.
More likely Miller foam issues.
If the beer was pouring fine and all of a sudden turned to foam, it's not likely the kegerator, UNLESS the temperature all of a sudden drastically changed. My opinion would be that Miller requires one to pay a whole lot of detail to tap properly, from the beginning.
Last edited by cubby_swans; 10-27-2009 at 11:05 AM.
____________________________________________ Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed.
Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery
and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn't drink this beer, they might
be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself,
"It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than
be selfish and worry about my liver." ____________________________________________
If the beer was pouring fine and all of a sudden turned to foam, it's not likely the kegerator, UNLESS the temperature all of a sudden drastically changed. My opinion would be that Miller requires one to pay a whole lot of detail to tap properly, from the beginning.
I was at 39°f sat all day and now low 35°f
I just ordered a blower to chill the tower, and Im debating on a new regulator. The danby one fluctuates on its own +/- 2 psi. Could the different temps in the keg change the co2 psi?
Last edited by Scott81603; 10-27-2009 at 11:08 AM.
You need to know what the beer temperature is in the glass with a calibrated thermometer. Is it 35 or is it 37? These two temperatures would require different PSI settings. Is your co2 pressure 13 or 14?
You can't use generalizations or estimates when trying to balance a draft system. Need specifics.
____________________________________________ Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed.
Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery
and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn't drink this beer, they might
be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself,
"It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than
be selfish and worry about my liver." ____________________________________________
You need to know what the beer temperature is in the glass with a calibrated thermometer. Is it 35 or is it 37? These two temperatures would require different PSI settings. Is your co2 pressure 13 or 14?
You can't use generalizations or estimates when trying to balance a draft system. Need specifics.
I just checked now, Beer temp is 35°f using a certified ASTM 9F thermometer @ 13psi.
It can take days for a keg to reach temperature. If you're going to tap it when it hasn't reached it's final resting temperature, than you need to monitor the temperature and adjust the pressure setting as the temperature changes.
Hophead, here, taps Miller, and he uses 14psi at 38F. You need to drop pressure 1psi per 2 degrees F drop in beer temp, and raise pressure 1psi per 2 degrees F increase. So if your beer is 35 now, you should lower your pressure to 12psi.
Being tapped for a few days at 14psi at 35F, you may have slightly overcarbonated the beer. You can relieve the beer of a bit of co2 by turning off the co2 supply, and pulling the pressure relief valve on the keg coupler. Shake gently, and pull the valve one more time. Then turn the co2 back on, let the beer settle, and hope your results are better.
____________________________________________ Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed.
Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery
and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn't drink this beer, they might
be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself,
"It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than
be selfish and worry about my liver." ____________________________________________
It can take days for a keg to reach temperature. If you're going to tap it when it hasn't reached it's final resting temperature, than you need to monitor the temperature and adjust the pressure setting as the temperature changes.
Hophead, here, taps Miller, and he uses 14psi at 38F. You need to drop pressure 1psi per 2 degrees F drop in beer temp, and raise pressure 1psi per 2 degrees F increase. So if your beer is 35 now, you should lower your pressure to 12psi.
Being tapped for a few days at 14psi at 35F, you may have slightly overcarbonated the beer. You can relieve the beer of a bit of co2 by turning off the co2 supply, and pulling the pressure relief valve on the keg coupler. Shake gently, and pull the valve one more time. Then turn the co2 back on, let the beer settle, and hope your results are better.
Is there an initial second or two of foam out of the faucet, then clear beer?
Is a second immediate pour also foamy, or fine?
Is the beer pouring clear out of the faucet, and turning to foam when it hits the glass?
____________________________________________ Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed.
Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery
and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn't drink this beer, they might
be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself,
"It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than
be selfish and worry about my liver." ____________________________________________
If the beer was pouring fine and all of a sudden turned to foam, it's not likely the kegerator, UNLESS the temperature all of a sudden drastically changed. My opinion would be that Miller requires one to pay a whole lot of detail to tap properly, from the beginning.
I had given the "pouring fine" over to the original pressure setting of 10 psi, but maybe not. I got my only "perfect pours" out of a of keg of Bud Light after I had inadvertently left the CO2 turned off for some unknown period.
Is there an initial second or two of foam out of the faucet, then clear beer? Yes
Is a second immediate pour also foamy, or fine? Foamy
Is the beer pouring clear out of the faucet, and turning to foam when it hits the glass? No
Once you have foam in the glass, you can't pour beer on top of it. Pouring beer on top of foam creates more foam. Try stopping your pour as soon as the beer turns clear and switch to a fresh glass and resume pouring. See if that makes a better pour.
You MAY need a longer line to slow down the flow of the beer. 5' is generally good, but with miller or coors products, often people find out they need 7' or 8' of beer line to slow the flow of the beer down.
____________________________________________ Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed.
Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery
and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn't drink this beer, they might
be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself,
"It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than
be selfish and worry about my liver." ____________________________________________
Like I said Im new to this kegerator stuff. I think I may be near the end of my keg. Do my problems sound like it could cause lots of foam. Im at 98% foam now
Unfortunately draught beer hates temperature swings. At some point your pressure was too high for the beer temperature and as cubby_swan indicated, you over carbonated the beer. You could shake the excess gas out of the beer but you may risk shaking too much gas out and ending up with flat beer.
Before the next keg, attempt to apply the mods recommended in earlier posts. Your goal should be to acquire to the best of your ability constant temperature at the keg and all the way to the faucet. The 14 PSIG @ sea level is valid for Miller. The pressure adjustment for temperature difference from 38F is accurate as well.
That certified ASTM 9F thermometer you have - calibrate it in ice water.
I went from a 1/4 keg to 1/2 and when the keg sits for 12 hrs or so, I see air in the line again. This wasnt happening with the 1/4 or at least I didnt see it. Using miller lite 38 degs constant and 14psi. 1st pic is the faucet, then the coupler then the gauge.
hey scott i just got the danby as well about two months ago , just wanted to let you know i changed the gauge on my reg because it was about 7 psi off. had it at 14 and really 21. i had a liquid filled gauge in my garage so i just thought check to see if the danby one was right, it wasn't.
I didnt do any mods yet, im not sure if i going to keep it, i dont know how the wife would like the idea of me doing all of this.
hey scott i just got the danby as well about two months ago , just wanted to let you know i changed the gauge on my reg because it was about 7 psi off. had it at 14 and really 21. i had a liquid filled gauge in my garage so i just thought check to see if the danby one was right, it wasn't.
I didnt do any mods yet, im not sure if i going to keep it, i dont know how the wife would like the idea of me doing all of this.
Thanks for the reply. I'll look into this. I think I got a temp related issue.
After playing with this all night and this morning, I'm thinking it's got to be a temp related issue. The 1/4 keg (all metal) was perfect. Then I changed over to 1/2 (rubber coated) since then I cant get the temp to be consistent. Is this common? I know the danby temp display isnt 100% accurate, but Im watching the display temp go up and down. Either way I ordered an external temp controller to solve this issue. At least Im hoping its gonna solve it.
How many kegs have you been through? Are these your first two or have you had more? Have they all been the same? The black/rubber kegs do not get or stay as cold as the metal ones, IMO
Don't know much about the Danby unit but where is the temp display? Inside or outside? If you are opening the door a lot this can cause temp problems. Do you clean your lines, coupler and faucet thoroughly between kegs? Have you tried going to a longer beer line?
How many kegs have you been through? Are these your first two or have you had more? Have they all been the same? The black/rubber kegs do not get or stay as cold as the metal ones, IMO
Don't know much about the Danby unit but where is the temp display? Inside or outside? If you are opening the door a lot this can cause temp problems. Do you clean your lines, coupler and faucet thoroughly between kegs? Have you tried going to a longer beer line?
The 1/2 keg is my 3rd keg since I purchased the unit. I agree with you on the black kegs dont chill properly. Last night I installed the brewers edge temp controller and I got my beer temp much lower now. VERY little foam. Now Im happy. After this keg is done, Im gonna wash the entire unit inside and out.
If the beer was pouring fine and all of a sudden turned to foam, it's not likely the kegerator, UNLESS the temperature all of a sudden drastically changed. My opinion would be that Miller requires one to pay a whole lot of detail to tap properly, from the beginning.
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