5 Lb CO2 Tank Pressure

[SteelersBar]

What is the full reading of the tank if I keep it in the fridge?? Should it dip at all b/c it is cold vs if it is warm?? Mine read about 500 after I wasted a bunch of co2 b/c I had a leak. It was a big leak and I had to replace the MM reg. Over the past 2 days it has dipped below 500 to maybe 350-400 PSI.....am I running out?? Should I refill it if I am trying to have a party for labor day?? Or will it last much longer....I am on my 2nd and third sixtels....

Also, how quickly shopuld the beer equalize from an increase in pressure if I went from 8 PSI to 14 PSI??? How quickly will I notice a foam decrease??

[Scott Zuhse]

Depending on the temperature of the liquid CO2 in the cylinder, it will read around 400 PSIG or so. The pointer will not drop until all of the liquid is gone and then you do not have much gas left. This is why keeping the cylinder outside of the refrigerator is advantageous since it is easier to determine if you are low on gas. At ambient, a correctly filled cylinder should read 825 PSIG and again, the pointer will not drop until the liquid CO2 is depleted.

The change in pressure at the keg should not take more than a minute. As to foam, that depends on the past condition of the beer and the state your system is in. If this is a fresh keg that has acclimated to your kegerator, the foam issue should subside as soon as the keg pressurizes at the higher level.

[SteelersBar]

Thanks for a quick reply scott. I am still getting foam, but I don't think my liquid temp has completely equalized yet. With me having the door open to check things, the temp went up to about 45. This AM it read 40, so it is getting there. I am anticipating that when I get it down to 38 my issues will be solved....HOPEFULLY!!! Speaking of which, what glass of beer should I be measuring the liquid temp....the first or second?? Also, what happens if I don't add 2 lbs for push pressure?? More foam?? Oh, and my fan is pointed towards the door, and drawing air from the front....should I rotate it to draw air from the plate to help?? Or is this more than enough?

I have come to realize in doing some searches on here that you are "God" when it comes to knowledge. Your experience speaks for itself!

and P.S., what ever happened to the test that you were going to run at 10 feet of 3/16 beer line and 12 PSI and 34 degrees??? I was curious as to how much of that thimble you filled....that thread was quite humerous on certain levels......I can't believe that guy got mad at you!!

[Scott Zuhse]

Thanks for the kudos. Much appreciated. Great memory on the flow test! The ten feet @ 14 PSIG resulted in a flow speed of approx. 90oz. / min. A conventional faucet has a difficult time filling the faucet when the flow is slowed below the mid 90's. We will retest this as the extruder that supplies our line has had issues with their tolerances being a little off. We'll wait until the send us new stock and test again.

If you do not use push pressure, you will risk the gas breaking out as you dispense since there is a pressure drop when the faucet is opened. Your pour will be slightly streaked. You might get away with one pound. The two PSI of "push pressure" has been a standard in the industry for centuries. Be aware that this has been applied more so to retail dispensing where the keg turnover is greater than home dispensing. Maybe! After reading the posts from some of the members, I'm not so sure! JK.

Anytime you can keep the air moving, particularly up into the tower and back, this should assist you with managing temperature throughout your entire system. Pulling from the coldest point may help. Not sure what result you will have as to your temperature control with this. Minimal swing temperature and consistency sure helps.