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06-17-2008, 07:29 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 55
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CO2 leak advice
Ok, I'm getting really tired of messing with this thing so I need some advice from anybody who has experienced this. I have the Danby dkc644bls. My CO2 tank lasted about a week and a half and I know I'm not even half way through this keg because I'm the only one drinking out of it. I've read that it could be everything from the coupler to the regulator to the beer line. I just replaced the beer line from MM so I know it's not that.
I'm going to get another tank today, but I don't want to spend money on CO2 every week. I'm pretty confident that if I get a new coupler and regulator from MM that my problems would be solved, but I don't want to spend money if I don't have to. Is it worth it to just buy the new parts or is it worth the aggravation to search for the leak? And if the answer depends on my current level of aggravation, I would say it's pretty high right now!
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06-17-2008, 08:00 AM
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Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 20
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I know your pain.
I have experienced several problems w/ CO2 and my Danby. I think they just use really crappy parts. Utilize their customer service. The item is still under warranty for me. They literally have replaced every item except the refrigerator on the unit (tower, beer line, CO2 line, coupler, gas line, regulator, and tank). Pretty amazing. They actually replaced the coupler 2 times for me.
I think I finally have it down. But my point is, searching for a CO2 leak can be frustrating to say the least, especially if the leak is so small it won't show up using the soapy water.
There is a CO2 leak test method posted elsewhere on this forum utilizing the readout high pressure gauge that will help you isolate the general area of the leak (i.e. regulator, gas line, or coupler). Scott could point you to the actual post. That won't actually fix it, you will probably need new parts anyway. The cost of those parts is what you want to keep down so it may be worth it for you to search. It would suck to buy a new regulator when you didn't actually need one.
Some common sources of the CO2 leak stem from a faulty regulator, missing check valve in gas line to coupler connection, missing washer from coupler to beer line connection, or your lines are not secured tightly. The coupler can also cause a leak if it is not making a good connection to the keg (check the seals on bottom of the coupler for damage).
I went through all of these items. Actually I am still not convinced it is fixed, but the CO2 seems to be going at a normal rate (2.5 kegs, 5# CO2 tank still weighs 12.5 lb from a 7.5 tare weight). My next step is to put a stick of dynamite inside the thing, or alternatively, get my money back.
Good luck. Hope this helps.
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06-17-2008, 08:26 AM
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Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 20
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Found the leak test from another thread for you...
Refer to this:
Quote:
To leak test the entire system, leave all valves open with the keg couplers in on position. Be certain that no one is dispensing while testing. Turn the gas cylinder wheel off and observe the high pressure gauge (indicates pressure in cylinder). If the needle begins to drop, you have a leak somewhere in the system.
To isolate, turn all the valves off and raise the handles on the keg couplers turning beer off but leave them in the keg well. Turn the wheel back on pressurizinfg system and then again turn off noting the needle on the high side gauge. If it drops, your leak is right at the regulator since the shut off below it is in the off position.
If it does not drop, your leak is downstream. Open the regulator shut off and repeat turning wheel on and off. Continue this process until you isolate where the leak may be. Using leak detector soap or other detection device, find and repair. Be aware that the leak could reside at the coupler or even the keg itself.
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06-17-2008, 08:52 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 55
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Thanks, that helps a ton! I guess I will have a little more patience and do these tests tonight to see where the problem is. I guess if I can find the leak and only have to replace one part I won't flip out! Unfortunately my unit is not under warranty (and it's a discontinued model from what I've seen), so I'll have to buy any parts I need. The only good thing about this is that I got a pretty good deal on the unit so even if I spend money and have brand new parts, I should still come out cheaper or around the cost of a new unit...then again, if I had the money to spare for a new unit I would've bought one!! Thanks for the help!
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06-23-2008, 03:15 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: , , .
Posts: 6
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leak help too
Here is how my test is turning out and I need some advice on what to do.
I have the barrel disconnected and the air line valve turned off. I turn my tank on and pressurize the system. I then turn the bottle off. I let things sit for a day or so. When I recheck it. The bottle pressure gauge is now at 0 and the barrell pressure is still at 8psi. I cannot locate any leaks with soapy water. Is this normal or is there a small leak at the bottle connection? Any ideas?
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06-24-2008, 11:43 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 55
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When I got my new tank, somehow I convinced myself that it was something that I did when I connected it that caused it to leak. Instead of doing the tests, I just hooked it up and tightened everything as tight as I could without doing damage. Less than a week later and guess what? Empty again! I can't help but wonder why it goes from full pressure to almost empty so quickly. You would think the high pressure would gradually decrease, but it seems like it just drops overnight.
Anyway, I shut off my tank and ordered a new MM premium regulator last night without testing and before I gave myself enough time to think about it or get mad about it. Just out of curiosity I checked it this morning to see if I could tell where the leak was coming from. I sat the tank on top of the fridge and turned it on. I could actually hear the leak this time. I put my ear next to the regulator and co2 was actually blowing onto my head like an air hose. It was coming out of the hole that the pressure adjust screw is in. I tightened the nut as tight as possible, but it didn't help. At least I know I ordered the right part...not that there are too many more parts that I can replace on this thing!
If anybody is looking for a leak, don't forget to look at the pressure adjust screw area (or whatever it's called). Like they say at the tables, I'm pot commited at this point. Hopefully this will be the last thing I have to replace for a while. Maybe it will help with some of the foaming issues I have as well.
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06-24-2008, 12:21 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,643
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If your regulator is leaking at this area it is the result of three potential defective components. Either the diaphragm is damaged and leaking, the bonnet assembly is loose or the seat capsule assemble is loose or damaged. Check this exploded view of a regulator to assist you in identifying these components.
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07-01-2008, 07:57 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 55
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New MM premium regulator seems to be working great! Glad I got one when I did, they're sold out. I got a new tank and did all of the pressure tests and my high pressure is holding.
The guy at the store gave me a tip and said to soak the washer that goes between the regulator and the tank before I use it. He said it will give it a better seal. Seems to be working. I noticed that one side of the washer is plastic/ceramic and the other side is more cardboard type material. Does it matter which direction it's facing?
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