Danby Resistor Question...

[TheSlavik]

Just a quick question regarding the Danby Resistor mod.

If I were to want a resistor that cooled the unit down more than a 100k, but less than a 33k, what resistor would I want? I just want to get a few degrees colder than the 100k is capable of. My liquid temp is 43 - 45 degrees, curently pouring Guinness. I'd like it to be around 40 degrees.

Oh, and I have my Danby t-stat set to its coldest setting.

Thanks in advance.

[cubby_swans]

Originally Posted by TheSlavik

Just a quick question regarding the Danby Resistor mod.

If I were to want a resistor that cooled the unit down more than a 100k, but less than a 33k, what resistor would I want? I just want to get a few degrees colder than the 100k is capable of. My liquid temp is 43 - 45 degrees, curently pouring Guinness. I'd like it to be around 40 degrees.

Oh, and I have my Danby t-stat set to its coldest setting.

Thanks in advance.

The question is, what liquid temp were you getting down to prior to using the 100K resistor? If you truly are getting 43-45 with a 100K resistor it would have had to have been 50+ withouth, which seems highly unlikely, even for a Danby. My guess is that you may not have the resistor making a good connection with the wires on the temperature sensor. Mine gets down to 36 with the 100K resistor (42 or so without).

If you truly are getting these temps with a good resistor connection, I would just use the 33K resistor. You can always adjusty the control panel to a higher setting if it gets too cold.

[TheSlavik]

Temps before were 48 degrees to 51 degrees. What I will do before I change out the resistor, is extend the sensor to the front, top of the Danby, then re-solder the 100k to try to get a better connection.

[cubby_swans]

Originally Posted by TheSlavik

Temps before were 48 degrees to 51 degrees.

Holy cow, that stinks. I would just go with a 33K resistor, then. If it gets colder than your desired 40, simply turn up the temperature on the control panel. You may get a few degrees cooler by moving the sensor.

If I had known in the first place that your temps were that high, I wouldn't have steered you towards the 100K resistor in the first place. My bad. If you ever make it to St. Louis, I'll make it up to you with a beer

[TheSlavik]

Why thank you. If I ever do get down that way, I will take you up on that offer.

Tonight I will move the sensor up and forward then wait a few days and check temps again. Overall I think it was just a bad idea putting that sensor in the lowest corner, next to the coldplate, and stuffed behind a fullsize keg. I think moving it will drop it the few degrees I want.

And don't worry about the resistor suggestion, the pack i bought came with a 33k, so everything is A-OK.

Cheers

PS: I love any chance I get to solder something!

[monkey710]

I know the resistor is cheaper than a new temp controller, but I would still recommend the controller to get a more accurate temperature while getting rid of the defrost cycle.

You can find them on an auction site at pretty good prices.

[TheSlavik]

Pictures of the extended temperature probe. Used 22 gauge white primary wire, with a 40" long piece of white heat shrink tubing over top (to keep it as inconspicuous as possible). Then I ran the wire up behind the cold plate and temporarily attached it to the roof with white electrical tape. I will properly fasten it up there tomorrow. Now the waiting game... I'll wait a day or two then check my liquid temps.

I also ordered the SureTemp liquid thermometer from MicroMatic that I will mount inside up top near the sensor.

[TheSlavik]

Checked my 1 little bottle of water that I have in the kegerator this morning. It had about a 1/2" of ice on the top of it. Temp being 31.5. Poured a glass of Guinness for breakfast and temp was 40.5 degrees. Im assuming this temperature difference is due to the amount of fluid the fridge needs to cool inside of the keg, and that it would take a day or two to chill it, unlike the smaller 1 litre glass of water.

[bstelt]

I'm no expert on these temperature probes, but I've always left the entire probe (that 1 inch white cylinder) fully exposed. You've got yours wrapped up nice and tight under the electrical tape. This might be insulating it from the air in the cooler resulting in false feedback to the thermostat.

[TheSlavik]

Note taken. I will see how this unit performs in the next day or two with my newly moved temp probe. If I can get the readout on the front to read what the keg contents are at, I will be more than pleased. By the look of it, I might make it happen, I just need to find the "sweet spot" for the temperature probe.

Now to just perfect my tower cooler.

[lunkhead]

Originally Posted by TheSlavik

Checked my 1 little bottle of water that I have in the kegerator this morning. It had about a 1/2" of ice on the top of it. Temp being 31.5. Poured a glass of Guinness for breakfast and temp was 40.5 degrees. Im assuming this temperature difference is due to the amount of fluid the fridge needs to cool inside of the keg, and that it would take a day or two to chill it, unlike the smaller 1 litre glass of water.

It will take a couple days to cool down 15 gallons of beer. As far as the tape insulating the sensor, is not an issue. Wrap a layer of tape around your fingers in the winter and see if it keeps them warm.

[TheSlavik]

Beer is now down to 33 degrees... gonna give her another day... the start moving the sensor down the side of the Danby until I can get an accurate-to-display reading.