Very Newbie mods to Danby DKC645BLS

[CoronaVegas]

First off, tons of good info on here.
However, I do not own a soldering iron so 33K resistor fix is a little out of my league for the Danby.

Here is what I did:
1. cover the sensor panel with Duct tape. (yeah I don't even know if this helps.

2. I bought this cheap desk fan from radio shack (and placed it on top of my keg blowing upwards towards the tower):

[url=http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2781564]RadioShack.com - Home & Office: Air purifiers & fans: 6" Desk and Clip Fan[/url]

3. my first 1/4 barrel was Bud light with no issues of foam. My second keg is a 1/2 barrel of Labatt's blue which I think is just an all around foamier beer?

any other suggestions/ quick fixes? Also, I am hoping that this post might help someone in my situation.

[lunkhead]

You don't necessarily have to solder the resistor in. A few here on the forum have friction fit it into the backside of the connector. Just make sure the resistor leads make good contact with the metal on the connector pins. The fan setup won't cool the tower much but is good for air circulation.

[cubby_swans]

You don't necessarily have to solder the resistor in. A few here on the forum have friction fit it into the backside of the connector. Just make sure the resistor leads make good contact with the metal on the connector pins. The fan setup won't cool the tower much but is good for air circulation.

That's me. I do not own a soldering iron, nor did I want to solder the resistor to the wires, as I'm sure it would have voided the warranty. The temperature sensor is hooked up to the Danby via a plug in connector. I unplugged the sensor, and was able to insert each end of the resistor into either side of the female side of the plug, and re-insert the male sensor end of the plug. So i have a resistor installed with no soldering whatsoever.

[lunkhead]

Cubby, did you ever post a pic of that? Could help others looking for an easier way to hook up the resistor, curious myself.

[CoronaVegas]

yeah any pics would be great. I also bought the extended warranty and don't want to void it by soldering. Or is there a temp sensor adapter that is longer with the same type of plug? So I could just run it up and towards the front.
I was also thinking the same thing for the "so-called" fan that is already installed.
I did say I was a noob right?

[cubby_swans]

Cubby, did you ever post a pic of that? Could help others looking for an easier way to hook up the resistor, curious myself.

I didn't, but I will tonight. Keg's dry right now but at least that makes it easy to get out of the way.

[CoronaVegas]

Wholly Molly!
I did not even know what a resistor was before buying a kegerator. That being said I rigged a resistor as Cubby Swans stated and the difference is unbelievable. I left the sensor out of the built in cubby towards the fron of the Danby. I even took out that mini desk fan and just insulated my beer line in the tower with some standard pipe insulation.
Needless to say, for a grand total of $2, I have refreshingly cold beer with just the right amount of foam 1" on a 20 oz. mug. I can't wait until my next keg. Deciding between Leine's and Killian's.

I cannot thank you guys enough for the advice!

[psychodad]

Man, if you think you got it dialed in go for the Leinies and celebrate.

[pandemonium]

all you need to do is use wirenutts for the resister no need to solder

[cubby_swans]

all you need to do is use wirenutts for the resister no need to solder

True, but the I think you'd still have to cut or strip the wires from the sensor. Which again, I think would invalidate the warranty. Keep in mind I paid an extra $25 for an extended 2 year warranty at Best Buy. If that were not the case, I would have just bought a soldering iron and made it a permanent fix.

Here's my pics. Initially I shoved the resistor into the plug end that was attached to the kegerator, and not the plug attached to the sensor, but when I went to take pics of it, the sensor fell out when I just touched it. Basically I found it difficult to work inside the small space. So I pulled the sensor, and shoved the resistor into the sensor end of the plug, and was able to get it in there further, and pretty snug, so that it sticks even with a little tug, yet it will remove easily. The first option worked, but I think the latter option was probably a better choice to get better contact to the wires.

I also moved the sensor as far forward as it would go, and taped inside one of the recessed shelving slots, so I wouldn't bump when removing/installing a keg.

Any electrical gurus will note, from the colored bands on the resistor, that I did not use a 33K resistor, but a 100K resistor. Lunkhead determined that a 33K resistor would get it a LOT colder (8-10 degrees I believe), and a 150K resistor would cool his about 2 degrees cooler, so I reasoned that a 100K resistor would get me somewhere in the middle of that. My kegerator was pouring roughly 40 degree beer without it, so I didn't really need to get it that much colder. It now pours at about 36 degrees. So with the 100K resistor, I get it 4 degrees cooler, and when I set it to 36, that's what I'm pouring.

[CoronaVegas]

I can't resist,
I kept mine plugged into to the "Female" end and shoved it back into the cubby with the sensor extended towards the front.

[lunkhead]

Thanks for pics cubby, would have been alot easier to go that way, but I am the lunkhead. Will make it easier for those who follow. Unless Danby starts building them correctly from the start.

[kimsta]

I added the resistor and am reading colder ambient temps. Though one thing annoys me, the digital output is reading EE and is blinking constantly (kinda annoying at night since I have a loft and I see everything). Any ways to fix this?

[lunkhead]

If you just stuck the resistor into the sensor connector it sounds like you either opened up the line or shorted the sensor out. Remove the resistor and see if that fixes it. If so carefully reinsert. The resistor is 33k (33,000) ohm, correct?

[kimsta]

Seemed to work after I removed it. So it's ok if it's out a little loosely? If I cram it in there, the systems beeps and flashes the EE

[lunkhead]

Sounds like your either shorting out the sensor or opening the line to it. Each side of the resistor must make metal contact with the pins. If it feels to loose then try bending the resistor leads over at the ends to take up the slack. Your using 33k, correct??

[kimsta]

Sorry for the lack of info on last post. Yes I am using 33K, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance..

[CoronaVegas]

Sounds like your thermostat is not functioning if flashing EE. That happened to mine when I unplugged my thermostat with the unit still plugged in.
On a side note, I went with Cubby's idea and switched to a 100K. THe 33K actually was getting it too cold and I was getting frost on the keg.
Now the Danby is set at 37 degrees, the inside thermometer (located inside door) fluctuates between 31-39, depending if in defrost mode or not, and the temperature of the beer is 37.8 when poured.

[kimsta]

I'll try the 100k out if that seems to work out for you guys. I will be using Soda kegs (1/6 barrels) for my own homebrew so I suppose the need to go really cold isn't too neccessary?

Also, when you mean it needs to touch the pins, do you mean it needs to make contact with the sensor end side? or does the resistor just need to make contact with the metal inside of the wire coming out of the fridge? I'm a visual person so i made a crude drawing of what i'm getting out of this..

[cubby_swans]

Also, when you mean it needs to touch the pins, do you mean it needs to make contact with the sensor end side? or does the resistor just need to make contact with the metal inside of the wire coming out of the fridge? I'm a visual person so i made a crude drawing of what i'm getting out of this..

Either side worked for me. If you look at the pics I have posted above, you can see that I have a pic of each one. Currently I have the resistor connected to the sensor end of the plug. I'm thinking you're probably not getting good contact from both ends of the resistor. Beeping and flashing EE is what it does when you completely unplug the sensor.

I found it easier to insert the resistor as I have pictured by unplugging the sensor and working on it where I had more light and I wasn't huddled inside the kegerator trying to hold a flashlight, a wire, and a resistor all at the same time.

Also, I believe I used a 1/4 watt resistor, not the 1/2 watt. The quarter watt resistor has smaller wires on it and made it easier to insert where it needed to go. I bought the 1/2 watt ones too, becuase when I was at Radio Shack, I didn't know which ones I needed, I didn't want to make a return trip, and they were only a buck. But once I got to it, I didn't think I'd be successfull with the 1/2 watt resistor due to the size of it's wires.

[kimsta]

Thanks Cubby, i'll pick some 1/4 watts on my way home today. If I have more problems i'll post specific pics so I can get some input (which hopefully i'll have this all settled by tonight).

[kimsta]

The 100k did it... 1/2 watt wires made it easy. Thanks all! Now all I need are some kegs..

[Fletchdogg]

Ok, so I am the ignorant one. I've ordered my Danby, read all about the mods and am excited to get it deliered in the next few days. I plan on adding the resistor. Loved the pics and the info. I am not sure about is whether or not I am adding it in series or parallel. I am not familiar with anything electrical. If I install it into the female plug of the sensor, how ill I know if it's parallel?
Thanks for any help,
Fletch

[cubby_swans]

Ok, so I am the ignorant one. I've ordered my Danby, read all about the mods and am excited to get it deliered in the next few days. I plan on adding the resistor. Loved the pics and the info. I am not sure about is whether or not I am adding it in series or parallel. I am not familiar with anything electrical. If I install it into the female plug of the sensor, how ill I know if it's parallel?
Thanks for any help,
Fletch

You are adding it in parallel. Just do what's in the pics, it will be correct. You would have to attach both ends of the resistor to one of the two sensor wires in order for it to be in series.

[Fletchdogg]

Thanks Cubby. I think I may extend the sensor wire as well, so I may just splice it into that as I move the sensor closer to the door and the top.

Since I will be adding my Danby to an outdoor built in BBQ, I may need the 33k due to the warmer weather her in California. All the other mods to the tower and adding the fan may also be a must.

Thanks again,
you have been very helpful.

Fletch

[Fletchdogg]

I just ran power to my new Danby, placed a glass of water inside and let it run without a keg for 24 hours with the temp setting at 36 degrees. The inside glass of water read 37 on the digital thermometer.

I was ready to add the resistor, but it looks like it is cold enough. I am aiming for 38 degrees. Should I add it anyway? Will the keg get as cold as a glass of water? Of course the Kegerator is outdoors and it will get hotter during the summer, so I am thinking it may be a good idea to add the resistor and just monitor the inside temp.

Here are a pic of the outdoor bar.

Bar.jpg

[psychodad]

If you are hitting the target temp, I'd not worry about the resistor. Keep in mind though the Danby is not rated for outdoor use and the resistor isn't going to help in that regard. It may struggle to keep cool no matter what you try when the days get really hot..

[Fletchdogg]

Thanks,
That's what I've been thinking. At least for now I should be OK. I know when it gets hotter it will be tough. Any other ways to keep it cooler? I know I could have paid big bucks for an outdoor kegger, but with it being built into the bar, I am thinking it "may" be ok.

Fletch

[cubby_swans]

Thanks,
That's what I've been thinking. At least for now I should be OK. I know when it gets hotter it will be tough. Any other ways to keep it cooler? I know I could have paid big bucks for an outdoor kegger, but with it being built into the bar, I am thinking it "may" be ok.

Fletch

I was able to get a glass of water to read 37, also, without a resistor. But it just couldn't seem to get that keg below 41. I added the resistor and a blower, and now when the box is empty, my liquid temp is 32. However, it never dips below 36 with a keg in it. You could try a keg first to see how it goes, but I suspect you'll be wanting to add the resistor after a few days.

[Minnesota]

I just bought the Danby and I just happened to stumble on this forum. I am going tomorrow and buy the resistor. I was wondering can I use this Idea on my gladiator garage refrigerator? What kind of store can you buy blowers and fans without buying them online.

thanks again, you guys are great!

[cubby_swans]

I just bought the Danby and I just happened to stumble on this forum. I am going tomorrow and buy the resistor. I was wondering can I use this Idea on my gladiator garage refrigerator? What kind of store can you buy blowers and fans without buying them online.

thanks again, you guys are great!

a few people here have used a project box, fan, and power supply all from radio shack.

I pulled mine from an old PC that was slated for trash - this post has detailed instructions how to put together, starting about halfway down. You could basically use the same instructions for the Radioshack parts, if you don't have spares lying around.

[url]http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-en/kegerators-kegerator-kits-home/2163-can-i-use-blower-cool-my-tower.html[/url]

[walkjr]

If I pull a resistor in line with the temp probe will I be able to stick everything back in the hole or will it short the resistor out ? I tryed it and tape it to the side of the kegerator but it's right next to the keg.

[beausug]

Your pictures are great, thanks so much! Now i plugged in the resistor but i keep on getting the ee and high ptich noise after i plug the danby back in. I tried the resistor several times and keep getting the ee and noise. Any suggestions thanks. beausug

[cubby_swans]

Your pictures are great, thanks so much! Now i plugged in the resistor but i keep on getting the ee and high ptich noise after i plug the danby back in. I tried the resistor several times and keep getting the ee and noise. Any suggestions thanks. beausug

Are you sure you used a 100k (or 33k) resistor? The EE flashing happens when the connection isn't made. I've seen it happen when A) the resistor has't made a solid connection with the wires or B) the wrong resistor was used. Some have accidetally purchased a 33OHM or 100OHM resistor instead of a 33k OHM Or 100K ohm resistor.

If you look at your resistor, and plug in the color bands you see into this website, [url=http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm]Graphical Resistance Calculator[/url] you will see if you have the correct resistor.

[mondoholocaust]

when i look inside of the end of the plug that the wires are coming out of i can see metal down in there. if my resistor makes contact with those is that sufficient?

[washingtonbc]

For all of you that are worried about voiding the Danby warranty.

I called Danby and ordered an extra sensor for $9.00 shipped.

I took the original out, put it in the box the new one came in. Then I added extra wire and soldered the resistor in the new sensor. I put the end of the sensor up to the top of the unit, by the door.

COLD BEER. $10.00 spent.

If anything were to happen...I can put the original sensor on again.

[adamy7779]

Hello all,

First off, thanks for the boatload of information and help you've provided in moding the Danby. This is a great forum!

Now, for my first question ...

I just bought my first Kegerator (the Danby). I read Lunkhead's post about installing the resistor and I decided to go his route. I stripped the wires and wrapped the leads of the resistor around each wire (like shown in Lunkhead's picture). I then just wrapped the assembly in electrical tape and taped it to the inside wall of the kegerator. This seems to work just fine, I've decreased the temperature by about 5 degrees. Do I really have to solder it? I'd rather not ... I've never done this before and I really don't want to destroy the wires. I'm sure this creates a tighter bond, but if it's working, why do that?

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[dvandriesen]

i did the mod also and didnt solder anything will be very soon though you can cut the plastic around both wires and just wrap the leads from the resistor around them and as long as in contact and wrapped in electrical tape you will be fine the solder is just a better contact. mine is working fine also with no solder but just wrapped if that helps.

[cubby_swans]

Hello all,

First off, thanks for the boatload of information and help you've provided in moding the Danby. This is a great forum!

Now, for my first question ...

I just bought my first Kegerator (the Danby). I read Lunkhead's post about installing the resistor and I decided to go his route. I stripped the wires and wrapped the leads of the resistor around each wire (like shown in Lunkhead's picture). I then just wrapped the assembly in electrical tape and taped it to the inside wall of the kegerator. This seems to work just fine, I've decreased the temperature by about 5 degrees. Do I really have to solder it? I'd rather not ... I've never done this before and I really don't want to destroy the wires. I'm sure this creates a tighter bond, but if it's working, why do that?

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Did you read the post you've responded to, here? I even have pictures in THIS post of a resistor installed without soldering.

[lunkhead]

Hello all,

First off, thanks for the boatload of information and help you've provided in moding the Danby. This is a great forum!

Now, for my first question ...

I just bought my first Kegerator (the Danby). I read Lunkhead's post about installing the resistor and I decided to go his route. I stripped the wires and wrapped the leads of the resistor around each wire (like shown in Lunkhead's picture). I then just wrapped the assembly in electrical tape and taped it to the inside wall of the kegerator. This seems to work just fine, I've decreased the temperature by about 5 degrees. Do I really have to solder it? I'd rather not ... I've never done this before and I really don't want to destroy the wires. I'm sure this creates a tighter bond, but if it's working, why do that?

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

With a good resistor lead wrap around the sensor wires soldering isn't really required. You have a good physical connection. But, after a while tarnish and corrosion will build up on the expose leads. A good tape seal over the leads will slow this process down. It may take a several years but the connection may eventually fail. In which case the danby will act like there's no resistor installed. When this happens, clean the wiring up and you'll be good for a few more years. The solder job will last for decades and out live me.