Very Newbie mods to Danby DKC645BLS

[adamy7779]

Did you read the post you've responded to, here? I even have pictures in THIS post of a resistor installed without soldering.

Yeah, I saw your method, but only after I had already implemented Lunkhead's (or else I would have gone your route). So, instead of removing the resistor, taping back over the bare wires, and reinstalling it into the plug, I was asking if I could just leave it as is without soldering.

[adamy7779]

With a good resistor lead wrap around the sensor wires soldering isn't really required. You have a good physical connection. But, after a while tarnish and corrosion will build up on the expose leads. A good tape seal over the leads will slow this process down. It may take a several years but the connection may eventually fail. In which case the danby will act like there's no resistor installed. When this happens, clean the wiring up and you'll be good for a few more years. The solder job will last for decades and out live me.

Thanks Lunkhead! This is exactly the response I was hoping for!

[ekrohn]

Hey Guys,

I just installed a summit under counter kegerator and sure enough only able to drop the temperature to around 42. Assuming I could add this same resistor to the temp probe of my Summit? Any suggestions sure would be appreciated.

thank you,

Eric in Austin

[psychodad]

Do you have a wiring diagram? I suspect the Summit is a capillary tube type controller and a resistor is out of the question.

[MediaMike]

I did the 33K resistor mod tonight and built a custom blower with an old computer fan housed in a custom built enclosure. Tomorrow I am going to run the plumbing to feed the cold air into the tower but I'm not sure how to tie the hot and ground wire into the Danby. Can I do that or do I need an external power supply (old cell phone charger) or can I tie the fan into the power on the fridge? Sorry, I'm a newbie and just got my Danby (for an Xbox 360, I fix them).

[psychodad]

An old cell phone charger is easier, but you can tie the output for the original Danby fan high and power it off of it like I did. Sorry, I don't have pictures.

[MediaMike]

I just went ahead and ran a 7.5Volt external power supply through the CO2 hole and powered it that way. I tested the beer this morning before doing the tower mod and my beer came out at 34*, plenty cold for me here in the Texas panhandle. Still too much foam but I'm sure it's because I'm overdue on cleaning everything. Much better though so far.

[MediaMike]

Got the tower mod done (The spigot is ice cold now) and cleaned the lines and hardware and the beer is flowing like a pro now. Thanks guys for all the help. I have one heck of kegerator now and it was easy on the pocket book.

[rowdy117]

Thought this would be an easy fix, but obviously I need some more help. I have it set at 36, and the display would fluctuate between 34 and 41. I put a thermometer inside the unit and it has been pretty steady around 42-43. Tonight I moved the sensor towards the front and added a 33k resistor. I had no error messages on the display, so I thought everything was great. However I have not seen any change in the temperature. It still can't get lower than the low 40s. Does this mean that the resistor is not making proper connections? I could only find 1/2 watt sizes at radio shack. Would a 1/4 size make it easier for the connections to be made? Is there anyway to know for sure that the connections are good? Is it possible that adding the resistor could actually have no affect if there was an issue with another component? Sorry for all the questions, but my mother-in-law just bought this from a friend for me, and I'm dying for some COLD keg beer.

[psychodad]

Just solder the wires for a good connection. This thing with poking them in the connector to not void the warranty is not the best way to make electrical circuits work. I would be willing to wager a pint or three of IPA that nobody has ever been denied warranty status on one of these for something like this.

[rowdy117]

Thanks for the unbelievably quick reply. Warranty definitely isn't my issue since the unit was made sometime in 2005. It's my complete lack of electrical knowledge/skills that leaves me apprehensive about soldering. You feel confident that the lack of cooling capability is just a manufacturer defect and not something else that could be wrong with this unit such as not enough refrigerant? If so, I will see if I can convince my much more 'handy' neighbor to solder it for me.

[psychodad]

Lacking tools or experience in soldering, mechanical connectors such as butt splices would be OK too. I admit a soldering iron is not something that everyone has in their home.

[lukeduke]

is this fix pretty standard for all danby kegerators whether they were sold in 2005 or 2009? Mine is less than a year old......

[cubby_swans]

is this fix pretty standard for all danby kegerators whether they were sold in 2005 or 2009? Mine is less than a year old......

Mostly. You need to determine what the coldest temperature it achieves before guessing what resistor to use, though. I used a 100K resistor, which worked great for me. My kegerator cooled down to 41 or so pre-resistor, and now it cools a 1/2 barrel down to 36. Others have used a 33K resistor because they needed more. The lower the resistor number, the colder your unit will get compared to it's current capabilities. Others have used a 33K resistor and have frozen kegs, so you have to be careful in monitoring your beer temps if you go that route. 29F is about where beer starts to freeze, depending on the ABV.

[coop521]

Thanks to everyone here for sharing their stories with the Danby kegerator, and making it easier on the rest of us.

Special thanks to cubby_swans. I copied your mod design almost to a tee. I, too, had an old junk PC laying around and built a blower out of a 3" LED fan and power supply box. A little duct tape, and some 3/4 " hose -- chilled tower. Also, for some reason my Danby tower had no insulation (so I added some good pipe insulation). Finally, did the water test with the sensor yesterday and it cut the foam problem out completely by the second pour. So today I added the 100k 1/4 watt resistor. Will be tapping a fresh keg of Bell's tomorrow. Can't wait.

Cheers y'all.

[cubby_swans]

Thanks to everyone here for sharing their stories with the Danby kegerator, and making it easier on the rest of us.

Special thanks to cubby_swans. I copied your mod design almost to a tee. I, too, had an old junk PC laying around and built a blower out of a 3" LED fan and power supply box. A little duct tape, and some 3/4 " hose -- chilled tower. Also, for some reason my Danby tower had no insulation (so I added some good pipe insulation). Finally, did the water test with the sensor yesterday and it cut the foam problem out completely by the second pour. So today I added the 100k 1/4 watt resistor. Will be tapping a fresh keg of Bell's tomorrow. Can't wait.

Cheers y'all.

You're welcome! Enjoy that Bell's. I love most of their beers.

[coop521]

I decided I wanted options, so I recently added a two-faucet tower to my Danby. Chose the one from Micromatic. I no longer have any foam on the first pour. It's perfect even if it has been sitting idle for days. Also, the regulator from Micromatic is much more precise than the Draughtworks piece of sh*t that comes out-of-the-box with the Danby. It was working very good before (thanks to the mods recommended here). But if you want it perfect, I suggest paying extra for the Micromatic dispenser.

BTW, the Danby DKC645BLS -- even with its awkward design -- can fit a slim 1/4 barrel and a sixtel (plus a 5lb. CO2 tank) at the same time.

[auwdawg]

First of all, I am newer that any newbie on this stuff. Just bought my Danby (yesterday) and have started reading. Here's a thought with respect to the warranty issues. Don't know if this would work or not...but maybe. Couldn't one get a male and female plug, compatible with the ******* plugs, and in effect insert a link between the refer and the sensor? In that link you could hard wire (solder) the resistor. Then, when it comes time to take it out, just unplug the bridge and plug it in the way it was from the *******? Just a thought and one that I'm sure someone else before me has come up with.

[cubby_swans]

yeah, that would work fine. Frankly, I don't think you have to worry about the warranty by tinkering with the sensor, either way. I had to have someone come out and look at mine once and they never even opened up the thing. All the stuff they need to work on (compressor, electronics, etc) are all external.

I didn't even bother to remove the resistor that I had installed or move the sensor back to it's original spot.

[GPoilfire]

OK, so I like my beer at 40 degrees, my friends like it colder, today I went to Radio Shack & picked up the 100K resistor, installed it like Cubby said (inbetween kegs), inside cabnet temp was 29 degrees. 2 hours later I picked up my new 1/2 keg. Put it in & the temp was steady at 48 degrees for about 4 hours now, just starting to lower to 48 above keg & 32 below keg. Think this was just chilled & not cold when I picked it up. will give it a good 24 hours to see any difference! I need to hard wire the resistor, cant be sure if the leads are really making contact & like another post said, Order another (Quick disconnect to sensor probe) for a back up, just incase you screw up with the little tiny wires as you try to hard wire, Great Idea, BUT, when I called Danby to order it today, The women from India did not understand the part I was looking for nor did she speak very good Engish! Can't find the part # on the website, Can you guys help me out on a link to the part I am looking for for the Danby DKC645BLS

[daswerve]

Should be just a Temperature Sensor, isn't it? As far as a part number, I have no idea...

[GPoilfire]

Morning temp check, above keg 35 degrees, below 25. Beer temp 42, last night it was 48, unit is still running with the resitor in place. Will do another check at 4:00 PM when I pour my first one of the day.

[GPoilfire]

At 5:00 PM Beer temp is at 38 degrees, it might be alittle colder if my basement was not at 80 degrees or maybe I will have to try the 33k resistor. Thanks for all the great tips in this forum!

[hobby]

hello i have a danby kegorator 3 yrs old the other day noticed for first time temp was 54 unplugged for 10 min plugged back in set for 36 and it was alright the next day it went up higher i tapped box in back with the three srews beside the compressor a fan kicked on and com cycled today it was 82 tapped box again same thing its been about an hour down to 50 called danby lady was no help could it be a temp sensor or circuit board dont think its low on gas or could it be the compressor theres no keg inside went all the night before thought maybe temp was up because defrost without the cold barrel to keep temp down if something broke timing on the keg happened good

[johnnycsuperior]

hey guys could you tell me exactly were the sensor is I believe it is behind a white grill inside the fridge it almost sounds like this the fix I need to decrease about 4-5 degreese 100k resistor

[daswerve]

Yup, that's where it is

[johnnycsuperior]

if I buy a 100k resistor plug it in the coupling it will reduce temp around 4-5 degreese?? sounds to easy I would be a happy man

[daswerve]

It seems most people that use the 100k do in fact achieve the results you're looking for, but all Danby's are different. You'll just have to try it and see what it gets you.

[johnnycsuperior]

I removed the grill and looked at the sensor it seem to me there should be a sensor i could buy that would plug in and do the job????

[cubby_swans]

Maybe there is... but a pack of 5 resistors is a dollar, and basically plugs in, as well. If you find a sensor you can plug in that works perfectly, please share.

[johnnycsuperior]

I just installed 100 k on a piece of bell wire in order to raise sensor to top of the fridge the LCD is reading EE help

[johnnycsuperior]

Chubby I looked at all your earlier posts I am sure I have 100k-ohm 1/4 watt and I tried 1/2 watt 5% Resistors I bought them from Radio Shack when I extended the wire it worked fine as soon as I touch the wires with resistor it beeps and flashes EE I am trying to see if by raising the sensor should help??

[cubby_swans]

maybe take a picture of what you have and post it. I got an EE when the resistor was not making good contact with the wires. Make sure you attach it in parallel, and not in series, also. Also, I don't know what bell wire is. You really don't need to add any wiring.

[johnnycsuperior]

bell wire is a 2 wire solid thin wire I think 18 guage used for thermostates I wanted to raise the sensor and soder the resistor away from the keg and higher to get a better reading as the cold air is at the bottom

[cubby_swans]

I can't see the color bands on the resistor, there. It's pretty fuzzy. Try the macro setting on your camera. I know you said you're sure it's 100K, but can you get a clearer picture, and/or tell us what the color bands are on the resistor? The wrong resistor could easily cause the EE error, you're seeing also.

[johnnycsuperior]

Hey thanks for the help hard to see colors clear but looks like to me brown black brown gold I checked with calulator says they are 100 k I raised the sensor up about 12 inches seems to be geting colder in fridge thermo is not shuting off as soon

[Sketch]

I don't know a terrible lot about resistors and Danbys, but it looks to me as one package says 100 Ohm and one package says 100K ohm. And the package that says 100 ohm seems to be the one resistors have been taken from. Could this be your problem?

[johnnycsuperior]

Ok I see that I am going to try that now what do you think about raising sensor seems to be getting colder??

[cubby_swans]

I think we've found your EE display problem. A 100 Ohm resistor (which is shown in the packaging that's mostly empty) absolutely will give you an EE reading. 100 is a huge difference from 100,000 (100k) ohms. You aren't the first person to have picked up the 100 Ohm resistors on accident, and get the EE reading as a result. Brown Black Brown is 100 Ohms. 100K is Brown Black Yellow.

Raising the sensor makes sense if there is little or no air flow to even out temperatures in the unit. With no air flow, temps can very several degrees from top to bottom of the unit. One thing you may want to consider is adding a tower cooling blower fan. Once you do this, air circulation pretty much evens out the temperatures within the unit from top to bottom.

[johnnycsuperior]

HEY I think we got it no more EE error nice pick up I will see tonight if any change