FOAM -- Another question

[jdgstat]

Let me start by saying that I've read the other numerous foam questions, but I can't see an answer to my situation.

Every beer I pour has at least half foam. The first pour is 2/3 foam to 1/3 beer. A second pour has half foam. The pour is VERY fast. I pull the full way out and it's done in around 2 seconds (mostly foam, of course).

Here are my specs:

Brand new Danby DKC645BLS.
15.5 gallon Michelob Ultra
11 PSI (I've tried lowering 8 and raising to 15)
36 - 37 degrees on the outside of the Danby
37 - 38 degrees on a liquid thermostat in a cup of water inside the kegerator
Atlanta area (some posts asked for elevation)
Lines are the standard lines that came with the Danby -- no changes yet

Any suggestions to help get a "normal" head on on my draws would be greatly appreciated!

Jon

[CableGuy]

Most likely problem is a temperature differential between the tower and the kegerator itself. There's an entire thread dedicated to improving the Danby units. Have you tried looking there? Also, if the beer is pouring too fast you may need to run a longer beer line (just coil the excess on top of the keg). I use around 8ft of 3/16ID and it works great. The added resistance of the longer line will help slow the beer down.

[rdam65]

Hi I had the same problem with my summit kegerator. I tried adjusting pressure and temp but still no help. But then I talked with someone and went for a long shot, I replaced the tap faucet and that did it. I haven't had any more problems with a lot of foam. My temp still the same and pressure the same. Hope this helps you. PS the original equipment for my unit didn't work with after market faucets so I had to get the whole faucet assy aftermarket not summit and it worked fine.

[jdgstat]

Thanks for the responses. I've read:

Danby Kegerator Improvements

Is this the thread you were referring to? If so, my temperature is fine, so I'm wondering if your thoughts on the temperature difference between the tower and the keg is the problem, or if rdam65's suggestion of a new faucet would help?

Where is the best place to buy longer tubes and faucets from? I'd be willing to throw a little money at it just to see if it fixes it.

I don't see a premade 8' line, so guessing I buy http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...-pid-547C.html and put clamps on the ends? Would longer than 8' help or hinder the situation?

Thanks for the replies folks!

[bard]

Do you have a local home brew store? I was able to buy the length of line I wanted right off the spool.

[jdgstat]

I don't have one that I know of, but I can check around.

I just rechecked my temp, and I think I found the problem. When I have the glass of water at the bottom of the Danby it showed 37 - 38 degrees, but when I put the cup of water ON TOP of the keg itself, it showed 40.4 degrees.

Soooo, what's my best option to lower the overall temperature of the kegerator? I'm a computer guy, but I have no clue on electrical/rigging things.

Also, I had the kegerator put in my bar when I had my basement finished, so that may limit my options.

Thanks again!

[CableGuy]

I don't have one that I know of, but I can check around.

I just rechecked my temp, and I think I found the problem. When I have the glass of water at the bottom of the Danby it showed 37 - 38 degrees, but when I put the cup of water ON TOP of the keg itself, it showed 40.4 degrees.

Soooo, what's my best option to lower the overall temperature of the kegerator? I'm a computer guy, but I have no clue on electrical/rigging things.

Also, I had the kegerator put in my bar when I had my basement finished, so that may limit my options.

Thanks again!

Well I just got done typing a pretty lengthy reply but got logged off before I had a chance to post it, so this one's going to be fairly brief.
-Check the air temp inside the tower. It's probably way too warm. I not only had to install a blower to keep the tower cool, but also a fan to circulate the air inside the kegerator itself. Warm air was rising to the top and causing foam issues.
-Start with around 8ft of line and gradually shorten it if the pour is too slow for your liking. I bought the line, clamps, and crimp tool from here. You could use screw type hose clamps from the hardware store if you're on a budget, but I prefer the crimp type.
-Make sure your CO2 regulator is set to the correct pressure for the temperature and type of beer you are drinking and don't be tempted to run it lower to avoid foam. This will result in a flat keg, and nobody likes that!

I've attached some pictures of my setup. Hopefully they will help give you a few ideas. If you're not confident that you can install a blower and/or fan safely, then definitely leave the task to someone else. As far as the "rigging" side of things is concerned, some amount of creativity will definitely be required here. Every kegerator is different and it would be tough for me or anyone else to tell you *exactly* how to do it. Don't be shy if you have any more questions, everyone here tends to be pretty helpful.

[jdgstat]

Thanks for the response Cableguy. And yes, everyone's been very helpful, especially to a noob such as myself. My father in law can fix anything, so if I can get all the parts necessary, he'll help me rig it.

Now, question time:
So in the last picture, is the blower the thing on the left (remember, I'm a noob!)?
Obviously the fan is in the middle, but what's the red thing on the right?
And how does the power come through? Did you drill a hole behind the fan/blower?
I see the blower sends the air out through the faucet. Do you have to keep the cap of the faucet off all the time?
Lastly, can you buy all these parts here? Or is there a kit for these things? I can get a fan from a computer like the one in the picture, but it has a different type of connection.

Or... Does anyone know someone local in Atlanta that does this type thing for a fee? HAHA!

***edit*** Also, I have full access to the back of the Danby as it goes into the next bar cabinet (which is where I store the CO2 tank), but the top is covered with tile (there is a gap between the tile and top of the kegerator for air flow).

Thanks again, and sorry for all these questions.

[jdgstat]

I've spent the better part of the day reading thread after thread, and I'm wondering if the resistor mod would fix my temperature/foam problem.

Copying a post:
dbigrunner Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 9

Got it!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------Well, I soldered the reistor just like the photo showed...It worked great!!!!

I set the digital temp on the front of the danby to 39 last night...woke up this morning and the t-stat I had in the fridge said the ambient temp was 33degrees...poured a glass ( a lot less foam on the first pull only about 2 inches) and stuck my liquid thermometer in it, read @ 36 degrees! PERFECT. I didn't add the fan or pvc pipe or anything.

Soldering Iron: 7.99 @ radio shack
Pack of 5 33k ohm reistors: .99 cents
10 Mintues to shave the plastic off the wires and solder the ends together
2" of electrical tape: free

Ice cold Fat Tire with .5 inch head....

PRICELESS

Couldn't have done it without all your tinkering and experiences that have been logged here.

Thanks agian!!
Darren
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Would this likely by my first step in lessening my foam? Or would installing a Brewers Edge Controller II help more?
What exactly does the resistor accomplish?
I'm not really concerned with putting some money into it. I'm more concerned with ease of installation as I'm far from a "handyman".

[cubby_swans]

I'm a computer guy with no electrical skills myself, and my blower mod was simple. In my Danby, I used a PC power supply, and it's fan, for my blower. I didn't see the need for a seperate fan, I just left one or two of the holes in the power supply un-caulked to create circulation in the lower part of the box. The cap on the tower stays on, that way the air returns to the unit from the tower and also increases circulation.

I spent less thatn $15 on my 'blower' mod. Look at the last few posts in this thread.....

can I use this blower to cool my tower?

And the resistor basically changes the signal from the temp sensor, allowing the unit to continue to cool beyond what you have it 'set' to. The temp sensor is basically inaccurate, which is why it won't actually get as cold as you set it to out of the box. If Danby had allowed us to set it to something like 32 or 33, it would probably get to 37 or 38. Or if Danby had simply made their sensor accurate, no resistor would be necessary. Lunkhead, from this site, has determined that using a 150K resistor in his unit makes the display accurate and allows the unit to cool 1-2 degrees below 'stock' settings, meaning that if it shows 37, it IS 37. But each unit likely has a different level of sensor accuract, so a 150K resistor might not get your Danby cold enough. I would stick with the 33k resistor. You're sure to get it cold enough that way, just realize your temp readout on the unit will be nowhere near correct. You'll have to play with that. You might find that that a setting of 40 on your Danby will actually cool it off to 34 or 35.

[jdgstat]

Thanks for the response Cubby. It sounds like I need to do 3 things, but I want to do them one at a time so I can see the results individually:

1) Move the Danby temperature as close to the front and top as I can. On the new Danby models (I bought mine 3 months ago), where is the sensor? How can I tell where it is from looking at it?

2) Solder a single 33k resistor to cool the unit further. Buy this at Radio Shack, etc. Where am I putting this resistor? How? The diagram I saw in a different thread, but it was totally greek to me.

3) Setup a blower to cool the tube to lessen foam, such as the one Lunkhead posted about. I'll do this once I see the results from the first 2 mods.

I'm at work now, so I can't look around, but I reallly want this thing working without 90% foam for a party on the 31st, so I'm frantic for answers.

Thanks!

[cubby_swans]

Thanks for the response Cubby. It sounds like I need to do 3 things, but I want to do them one at a time so I can see the results individually:

1) Move the Danby temperature as close to the front and top as I can. On the new Danby models (I bought mine 3 months ago), where is the sensor? How can I tell where it is from looking at it?

2) Solder a single 33k resistor to cool the unit further. Buy this at Radio Shack, etc. Where am I putting this resistor? How? The diagram I saw in a different thread, but it was totally greek to me.

3) Setup a blower to cool the tube to lessen foam, such as the one Lunkhead posted about. I'll do this once I see the results from the first 2 mods.

I'm at work now, so I can't look around, but I reallly want this thing working without 90% foam for a party on the 31st, so I'm frantic for answers.

Thanks!

1)Your sensor is behind the grill plate on the LEFT lower wall of the inside of the unit, as you are looking into the unit. It just pries off. The sensor wire only stretches out about 6 - 8 inches, so I just pulled mine as far to the front as it would go, and electrical taped it to the wall in one of the railing recesses, so I didn't break it when putting in a keg.

2)you can unplug the sensor wire. You'll see where once you've completed step one. I was able to insert each side of the resistor into the female end of the plug, and then plug back in the sensor. That way you've got the resistor installed with no soldering. Othersise just seperate the two wires coming from the sensor, and solder one resistor lead to each of the wires. Basically bridging them.

[jdgstat]

1)Your sensor is behind the grill plate on the LEFT lower wall of the inside of the unit, as you are looking into the unit. It just pries off. The sensor wire only stretches out about 6 - 8 inches, so I just pulled mine as far to the front as it would go, and electrical taped it to the wall in one of the railing recesses, so I didn't break it when putting in a keg.

2)you can unplug the sensor wire. You'll see where once you've completed step one. I was able to insert each side of the resistor into the female end of the plug, and then plug back in the sensor. That way you've got the resistor installed with no soldering. Othersise just seperate the two wires coming from the sensor, and solder one resistor lead to each of the wires. Basically bridging them.

Thanks again!

1) Can I extent the sensor wire by soldering something longer? 6" to 8" won't take it that far forward or higher, which seems to be my main focus.

2) So in 1 and 2, I'm modding the same wire? Moving it up/forward in step 1, and putting the resistor in during step 2? Or will this make a whole lot more sense once I open up the grill plate?

[cubby_swans]

Thanks again!

1) Can I extent the sensor wire by soldering something longer? 6" to 8" won't take it that far forward or higher, which seems to be my main focus.

2) So in 1 and 2, I'm modding the same wire? Moving it up/forward in step 1, and putting the resistor in during step 2? Or will this make a whole lot more sense once I open up the grill plate?

yeah, you can extend it by soldering in some extra wire. And yep, those are the same wires you're attaching the resistor to.

[jdgstat]

yeah, you can extend it by soldering in some extra wire. And yep, those are the same wires you're attaching the resistor to.

Thanks. What gauge wire would you extend it with? Or do you think just moving the wire up/forward the 6" to 8" is enough?

[cubby_swans]

Thanks. What gauge wire would you extend it with? Or do you think just extending the wire the 6" to 8" is enough?

the length I had worked fine for me, but mine was already cooling my beer down to 39, so I didn't need much along with the resistor. I would try it with what's there, first, and if then add to that if you think you need to. Then I guess I'd try to match the guage with what's there. A small guage, like maybe 28? Not sure what's there, or if it matters, even, I'm no electrician. This is a question for Lunkhead.

[jdgstat]

the length I had worked fine for me, but mine was already cooling my beer down to 39, so I didn't need much along with the resistor. I would try it with what's there, first, and if then add to that if you think you need to. Then I guess I'd try to match the guage with what's there. A small guage, like maybe 28? Not sure what's there, or if it matters, even, I'm no electrician. This is a question for Lunkhead.

Mine's cooling down to 40.4 or so, so I'm not that far off from you.

"Just connect one side of the resistor to each wire coming from the sensor, so that the resistor is connecting the two wires, that makes it parallel."
So I can insert the resistor in many ways it sounds like? At the base of the sensor, or put a sensor in between the current wire and the extension I put in to make it go toward the top/front of the Danby?

I'm basically making a loop of these wires? Or am I attaching one resistor to each wire?

[cubby_swans]

Mine's cooling down to 40.4 or so, so I'm not that far off from you.

"Just connect one side of the resistor to each wire coming from the sensor, so that the resistor is connecting the two wires, that makes it parallel."
So I can insert the resistor in many ways it sounds like? At the base of the sensor, or put a sensor in between the current wire and the extension I put in to make it go toward the top/front of the Danby?

I'm basically making a loop of these wires? Or am I attaching one resistor to each wire?

this is about as simple as it gets.... once you see the sensor and resistor, it will be quite obvious. There are two wires leading from the sensor to the plug. Attach each end of the sensor to each of the wires.

I also found lunkhead's picture of what he did... it's here.
http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-e...bytempsens.jpg

[CableGuy]

Thanks for the response Cableguy. And yes, everyone's been very helpful, especially to a noob such as myself. My father in law can fix anything, so if I can get all the parts necessary, he'll help me rig it.

Now, question time:
So in the last picture, is the blower the thing on the left (remember, I'm a noob!)?
Obviously the fan is in the middle, but what's the red thing on the right?
And how does the power come through? Did you drill a hole behind the fan/blower?
I see the blower sends the air out through the faucet. Do you have to keep the cap of the faucet off all the time?
Lastly, can you buy all these parts here? Or is there a kit for these things? I can get a fan from a computer like the one in the picture, but it has a different type of connection.

Or... Does anyone know someone local in Atlanta that does this type thing for a fee? HAHA!

***edit*** Also, I have full access to the back of the Danby as it goes into the next bar cabinet (which is where I store the CO2 tank), but the top is covered with tile (there is a gap between the tile and top of the kegerator for air flow).

Thanks again, and sorry for all these questions.

Yes, the blower is on the left and the fan is in the middle. The red bracket you see on the right is from when I used to keep the CO2 tank inside. I now have it mounted outside of the kegerator for easier access. I drilled a small hole behind the blower and ran the power wires through a grommet to prevent abrasion. Be careful when drilling through the side or back of your kegerator. You wouldn't want to hit anything important! You'll want to keep the cap on the tower at all times, otherwise the blower will not be able to keep it cold. I removed the cap to give you an idea how I set mine up. Also, when you drill the hole for the blower hose and beer line going to the tower, you'll want to be sure to make it large enough to allow for air to return from the tower to the kegerator. I think mine is somewhere around 2-1/2". You'll definitely need to remove the tower in order to drill the hole. Will you be able to do this? I'm not aware of anywhere that sells all of the items needed for a fan and blower install as a kit. I purchased the blower, mounting bracket and tubing at a local industrial supply house, got the fan (120v) from an electrical surplus store, and the rest were just pieces and parts I had sitting around the house. Before you attempt the resistor mod it's worth noting that the temperature inside my kegerator dropped quite a bit once I added the fan. The circulation helped quite a bit!

[jdgstat]

Yes, the blower is on the left and the fan is in the middle. The red bracket you see on the right is from when I used to keep the CO2 tank inside. I now have it mounted outside of the kegerator for easier access. I drilled a small hole behind the blower and ran the power wires through a grommet to prevent abrasion. Be careful when drilling through the side or back of your kegerator. You wouldn't want to hit anything important! You'll want to keep the cap on the tower at all times, otherwise the blower will not be able to keep it cold. I removed the cap to give you an idea how I set mine up. Also, when you drill the hole for the blower hose and beer line going to the tower, you'll want to be sure to make it large enough to allow for air to return from the tower to the kegerator. I think mine is somewhere around 2-1/2". You'll definitely need to remove the tower in order to drill the hole. Will you be able to do this? I'm not aware of anywhere that sells all of the items needed for a fan and blower install as a kit. I purchased the blower, mounting bracket and tubing at a local industrial supply house, got the fan (120v) from an electrical surplus store, and the rest were just pieces and parts I had sitting around the house. Before you attempt the resistor mod it's worth noting that the temperature inside my kegerator dropped quite a bit once I added the fan. The circulation helped quite a bit!

"Will you be able to do this? " Getting the hole bigger in the kegerator is doable, but difficult. The tower itself is 3" in width, but the hole in the top of the Danby is about 1 1/2". In between these is a layer of tile, which is what makes it difficult. Also, the tower has NO insulation on the sides. It only has a little foam insulation on the top cap. I'll find some over the weekend and add it.

I'm buying 33k resistors, right? Radio Shack had a ton of them, including 33k and 33 ohm. I bought both, but I feel pretty sure 33k are right.

Lastly, I opened the temp gauge grill and taped it to the side. The Danby and the temp immediately shot to 43 degrees (I had it open for a couple minutes playing around, so that's probably responsible for a degree or so). The temp gauge wire is only about 3" long, which makes extending it to the front top impossible unless I add more length to the wire.

I'll get some insulation for the tower, add it, and see what the temperature goes to. Then I'll add the resistor and go from there.

[jdgstat]

So far, so good. Here's what I've done so far:

1) Installed a blower setup very close to what Lunkhead did. I used the blower he suggested from mpja.com, a 10.2 output power adapter (6 and 9 didn't seem to put out enough oomph and I didn't have a 12 handy). I used a flexible tube instead of copper as I needed the play due to the kegerator being part of my bar. The tube goes to around 1" to 2" from the top of the tower.

2) Stretched the thermostat as far forward as I could. This lowered the temperature from 40.4 to right at 37 as measured by a liquid thermostat. Now the liquid thermostat temp matches the external Danby temp. If it's off, it's no more than 1 degree.

3) Stuff insulation in the gap between the top of the kegerator and the bottom of the tile. Basically, some of the cold air was escaping as the tower was on top of the tile.

4) Insulated the tower itself, both the top and sides.

Results: beer temp dropped 3 degrees to 37 and I have no more than 1/2" of foam after the first pour. First pour is foamy if there is a length of time between pours.

What I haven't done:
Resistor mod. Do I still need to do this since I'm at 37 degrees? If so, do I still use a 33k resistor or should I use something different since I'm not that far off temperature wise?

Thanks for all the help! I have cold, non foamy beer!

[CableGuy]

The resistor mod is to help get your temp down. If it's getting down to the desired temperature I would just leave it alone. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Right?

[jdgstat]

The resistor mod is to help get your temp down. If it's getting down to the desired temperature I would just leave it alone. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Right?

As long as 37 degrees is low enough, I agree Cable. Or would lowering it to 33 - 34 help lower the overall temperature of the kegerator and tower, thus lowering the amount of foam?

But how do I fix the first pour having over half foam? Add a separate fan for the internal part of the kegerator?

[CableGuy]

Do you have any pictures of your current setup that you can post? Even after installing a blower I had to add a fan as well. Turns out that even though the tower was cold, and the beer was coming out cold, the line that was coiled up on top of the keg was still getting warm. Turns out that the air temp in the upper part of the kegerator was significantly higher than the lower. When I added the fan, the foam went away. All of my temps (air, tower, liquid) dropped as well. Yes, they can be a little noisy depending on what type you use, but pretty much all of the "commercial grade" units have them, and for good reason too! While not unreasonable, the noise from mine is noticable, but only if it is relatively quiet in the room. I would add a fan before doing anything else.

[CableGuy]

You're still going to have a little foam on the first pour of the day, but every bar I've ever worked at has been like that too.

[jdgstat]

Do you have any pictures of your current setup that you can post? Even after installing a blower I had to add a fan as well. Turns out that even though the tower was cold, and the beer was coming out cold, the line that was coiled up on top of the keg was still getting warm. Turns out that the air temp in the upper part of the kegerator was significantly higher than the lower. When I added the fan, the foam went away. All of my temps (air, tower, liquid) dropped as well. Yes, they can be a little noisy depending on what type you use, but pretty much all of the "commercial grade" units have them, and for good reason too! While not unreasonable, the noise from mine is noticable, but only if it is relatively quiet in the room. I would add a fan before doing anything else.

I can take some pics when I get home. My line is the standard 4.5 or 5' that came with the Danby. I bought 9' of line from micromatic, but I think I got the wrong thing. The diameter of the inside of the tube looks to be way too small to fit on either end. I believe I bought 3/16" inside / 7/16" outside diameter. Is this the wrong tube?

As far as adding a fan, I see you put it above your cooling plate. My Danby doesn't give me that option. Mine comes within an inch of the top and then it curves out about 1.5 inches. I'll post pics tonight and maybe you or someone can give me suggestions on a fan.

Thanks!

[lunkhead]

jdgstat, glad to see your making progress. I've been gone since before your first post. If you have have the same blower that I have, how's it mounted? In my set up over half the blower opening is uncovered and is actually moving air around the unit but it still blows enough air up the pipe to cool the tower. Sounds like your using a higher voltage for your blower so you should be moving even more air. Your first pour will have some foam. I see about 1 to 2 inches and it does vary from keg to keg.

As I have now gone to an external temp control I removed the 33k resistor and with some experimentation found that 150k gives me an accurate temp display (also installed in parallel) This by itself should lower the temp in the danby about 2 deg, with a good reading. The 33k lowers the temp about 5-6 degrees. Relocating the temp sensor to the upper front (it's a little warmer there) should also run the unit cooler. Extending the wires with 20 to 28 gauge wires will work fine.

[lunkhead]

I bought 9' of line from micromatic, but I think I got the wrong thing. The diameter of the inside of the tube looks to be way too small to fit on either end. I believe I bought 3/16" inside / 7/16" outside diameter. Is this the wrong tube?

That's the right size. I use about 6 ft. The stock danby hose should also be 3/16 ID. Dip the hose ends in hot water to get them over the barbs on the fittings

[jdgstat]

jdgstat, glad to see your making progress. I've been gone since before your first post. If you have have the same blower that I have, how's it mounted?

As I have now gone to an external temp control I removed the 33k resistor and with some experimentation found that 150k gives me an accurate temp display (also installed in parallel) This by itself should lower the temp in the danby about 2 deg, with a good reading. The 33k lowers the temp about 5-6 degrees. Relocating the temp sensor to the upper front (it's a little warmer there) should also run the unit cooler. Extending the wires with 20 to 28 gauge wires will work fine.

I have almost the same exact setup you have Lunk. I'll post some pics tomorrow as I'm changing the keg on Friday. the only differences are I mounted my blower directly to the 1" x 2" wood piece and I used a flexible 3/4 pipe instead of copper.

[jdgstat]

Help, ASAP please! My wife and I have 40+ people coming over tomorrow....

I thought I had everything figured out, but I put in a new 15.5 gallon keg of Mich Ultra 8 hours ago and I'm back to 90% foam.

Danby shows 36 degrees, liquid temp gauge in the beer shows 38.
PSI is at 12

I'm not sure what's wrong.... Basically, nothing changed except for a new keg.

Thoughts? Could it purely be that the keg hasn't sat long enough? I thought 8 hours would be long enough, but I'm new to this. It's cold in the tower as I can feel the blower working if I take off the tower cap.

[psychodad]

Basically, nothing changed except for a new keg.

Did you clean before tapping the new keg? If nothing else is wrong, check the probe seal on the keg coupler (Item 4). http://www.micromatic.com/images/3/schema/2.gif If it is knicked or the surface of the the keg is dinged around the probe, you will be putting co2 into the beer at the coupler.

[jdgstat]

I have a spare coupler that I bought from Micromatic, so if that's bad I can easily replace it. Plus, isn't the Micromatic one better than the one from Danby? I already had to replace the Danby one as it was leaking beer from inside the mechanics of the coupler itself.

I'll go check it out.

[beer_hunter]

with my danby the two biggest improvement was the blower mod and the 33k ressitor I keep rolling rock in mine just after putting in a new keg I get about a glass or two of foam ( that comes from moving it from the liquid store to my house) and then it is all beer I found out that to much insulation had cut air flow in the tower so I removed the insulation took the rubber o ring off the tower cap to help the air flow better I found that 37 on the danby with the 33k is got my tower at 33 degrees right at the hose barb where the line is.If I go to 36 on the danby disply beer starts to freeze if I go 39 or 40 the beer is more foamy what I did that may help you out is remove some insulation in the tower not all so that you have a return of air.I took off my o-ring in the cap on the tower lets out just enough air to keep mine cold and no foam but I think you are not cold enough yet .have you done the 33k ressitor mod ? the resisstor was the biggest factor and the length of beer line I live in Denver and choose to start with ten feet of beer line others use 6 to 8 feet have you done that ? 10 feet of beer line works great here hope this helps

[CableGuy]

I live in Denver and choose to start with ten feet of beer line others use 6 to 8 feet have you done that ? 10 feet of beer line works great here hope this helps

The long beer line is needed on your setup due to the higher applied pressure required for the altitude you live at.

[jdgstat]

Thanks for the responses. I guess I didn't give it enough time. After 8 or so draws, the foam went away and back to normal. Sorry for the overreaction, but it was getting down to that time.

How often should I clean my lines?

[Scott Zuhse]

Is air actually leaking at the tower cap? If so, your refrigerator is going to work very hard to compensate for this loss. To improve air flow, be certain that the hole at the base of the tower is large enough for return air. Most towers have 1/4" thick insulation on the inside walls and cap.

Rolling Rock at Denver's elevation requires 16 PSIG @ 38 F beer temperature. Adjust one pound for every two degree change. Up for warmer, down for colder.

Ten feet of 3/16" is excessive and your flow will be slower than most systems. If is is desired, leave it. If you want a quicker flow, trim it back in six inch increments.

[beer_hunter]

thanks scott, the length of the hose is a little long but it pours great that is why I have said I live in denver it seems we have to do things a little different my pressure is at 12 . 16 seems a bit much as for air coming out of the tower it is very very little the cap is on but I removed the o_ring my beer is cold from first draw to the last draw it may be working a little harder but I am not to worried this is a temporary fix, I plan on dressing up my danby with oak panel and build a oak tower with plenty of room for air movment and insulation it should be a week or two so that it will match my home better, thanks to all I call my danby a dandy now thanks to all of my fellow beer drinkers here! cheers!

[jdgstat]

Here are pics of my setup. It's basically a copy of Lunkhead's for the most part. The kegerator is built into my bar, so I had to insulate the small section between the top of the kegerator and the tile.

Tower

Full Back View

Blower

Bar

[Scott Zuhse]

As you know, with the atmoshperic pressure in Denver less than at sea level, an adjustment must be made with pressure. This would be one pound for every 2000' feet change. You would make a two pound change. At sea level, the Rolling Rock requires 14 PSIG with 38F. In Denver, it should be 16 PSIG. If you are getting away with 12, your beer must be very cold.

[beer_hunter]

yes sir like I have said I got the coldest beer in littleton I have always liked my beer to be just a bit warmer than freezing the dress up kit that I plan should help the tower even better than what I have seen here not to toot my own horn I just like to improve almost everything to fit my needs and never will settle for average like most of the people on this forum (thank the beer gods) if not for this forum the danby would be junk. this forum is great and I never claimed to be an expert on this subject I just know what I like and hope that my input can help others they way that it has been so graciously helpful to me!I am however a master certified auto tech so I understand alot more than the averge joe,it has been my experince that even folowing the manufactor specs ,say a carburtor for example they say the same thing one jet size per 2000 feet that is not right we climb up to 15,000 feet in altitude from a mile high now if this was true about the jetting of a carb it would be easier to to ride a horse you would have to stop at every mountian town along the way to re jet your carb however you are 100% right altitude does affect alot of things I just have mine set they way I like it the beer is cold and never flat pours great from first to last when I am done with the dress Ill send a pic in of with the results cheers my friend! p.s. by the way I am very impressed with you knowledege!