Kegerator Help

[ccschoch]

Last year I purchased a Haier Kegerator. I am having troubles and the people at Haier are no help so I am turning to these pages.

First problem. I think I have a leak. I have a 5 Lb Co2 tank and only get about 1.5 half barrels per tank. I thought I corrected the problem when I put some suds on the regulator where the red hose plugs in and seen bubbles, I put some plumbers tape around the connection and tightened and thought that did the trick. The reason I thought I had it fixed was my regulator FINALLY read a 10 psi (I could never get it above 4 before I did that)...but I went down to pour a beer the other night (w/out pouring one for a good 5 days) and I had no c02 left...so it has to be leaking some where for the c02 to escape w/out it being used...correct? I have checked w/ suds all over the red hose, both ends where it connects to keg / regulator and no bubbles...what else can I do???

Secondly...this is my first kegerator so I do not know if this is normal or not. IF I do not pour a beer for 4 - 5 days the tap handle starts to get really tight and is hard to pull. If I go longer than a week or two w/out a beer that tap handle is EXTREMELY TIGHT and hard to pull to the point where it feels like I might break it off to pour a beer. Is this normal if the tap isn't pulled regularly? If not, any ideas what could cause this?

Thanks for any help!!!

Chris

[topgun3208]

Chris, you do have a problem with the Co2 somewhere. was the bottle filled all the way? I believe it is 1800psi full. I got my kegerator in april, on the sixth keg now with the same bottle, constantly reads 500psi because it is inside the unit. also, I have noticed when I dont use the unit for a few days my tap handle is a bit sticky when u pull a beer. I guess it is the sugars in the suds that cause it.

[ccschoch]

I'll look at my regulator when I get home. I just always looked at the little #'s...and keep it on about 8. Do you have the haier unit? Are you using a 5lb tank? My tank "should" have been filled all the way, got it from exchanging my old ones in. When you say 6th keg, are you using 1/2 barrels or 1/4 barrels?

I HAD a problem w/ a leak, but found that the "nozzel" connecting the regulator to the Co2 tank but now I have plumbers tape wrapped around it and really crank it tight...seems to work for that leak at least. But I have to have another one somewhere because the tank runs out on its own when not in use...went to pour beer the other night and no Co2 left.

Are you using the regulator that came w/ the kegerator or did you upgrade to a better one??? I am using just the one that came w/ the kegerator, (with only one reading on it)

I'll look at mine again when I get home, please let me know more about your kegerator.

Thanks for the help.

Chris

[ccschoch]

I am not sure what you mean by 1800 psi or 500 psi. My gauge only has one reading, reading the pressure going into the keg, and my manual says to keep this around 10 psi. Are you using a double gauge where one reading tells the amount of Co2 left in the tank and one where it reads the pressure going to the keg?

[topgun3208]

alright Chris here we go, I have a Sears Kenmore unit, heard not too good things bout Haier units (thermostats) I understand there is a fix tho, I have a 5# co2 bottle that I do an exchange on, I use 1/4 barrel kegs, 1/2 barrels are too heavy to hump. my unit came with a single stage regulator that showed "delivery" psi to keg, not what is left in the cylinder. I upgraded to a two stage regulator from micromatic that shows both delivery and remaining psi. lastly bout the tank psi thing, my understanding with that is this, when a co2 tank is put into a refridgerated unit the psi reading will drop to approx. 500psi, compared to if you hang your bottle outside the unit it will read 1800psi if completely filled. now if mine drops below the 500 mark, it is time for a refill, hope this helps you bud, dam now im thirsty []

[ccschoch]

Thanks for the info top gun. I've read the posts on the Haier units....my temp seems to be just fine....cool and frosty...my only problem is the # of Co2 tanks I am using.

I still don't understand what you mean by 1800 / 500 psi...is that on the second reading on the regulator (reading the Co2 left inthe tank)? My manual states to keep my regulator on 10 psi ( Co2 being delivered to the keg).

ANy suggestions out there on how to search for a leak? Also, how many 1/2 barrels should I be getting on a 5 lb tank?

[sftjr]

You have a leak in the system somewhere. I would check for a washer on the in side of the coupler. There should be a washer there and on the co2 tank as well. The 1500/500 reading is on the second guage (high side) You should soap everything down and try to find the leak. It could be the coupler that you are using as well. You should also get in the habit of shutting the tank off when not in use. As far as your faucet sticking if you do not use it frequently enough that is dead on the money. If you have a flushing bottle and you know that you are not going to use it for some time I would flush the line out and clean all of the sugar and beerstone out of the system.

[ccschoch]

Thanks for the reply. Some more questions arise now....

I was told to keep tank on to keep it under pressure...would keep beer from going flat...not true? IF not, is it fine just to keep tank turned on, but just use shut off valve?

This is a stupid question, BUT will ask just to be sure...once I tap a keg, can I "untap" and take coupler off to flush out the beer line to clean it, then re-tap it? Wasn't sure if this was bad to do or not.

I do have a washer on the connection to the regulator, where should washer be on the cuppler? My red hose is clamped over the opening for the gas line to make sure it's snug so no gas leaks...are you talking about part the actually touches the keg that you turn 1/4 of a turn to tap?

[ccschoch]

Any answers to last questions would be appreciated.

Anyone....Bueller, Bueller, Bueller, Bueller

[Scott Zuhse]

When beer dries it is like glue. Take a glass of tepid water and pour over faucet to loosen this glue. You have a leak. Soap every fitting to determine where it is. A properly filled cylinder should read approx, 850 PSI at 70F enviroment and around 400-500 PSI at 38F. Same amount of gas and 5# should dispense close to nine half bbls if there are no leaks. You do not have this gauge to read. Upgrade to either a double gauge regulator or purchase a high side gauge .Not only are you loosing gas but it is difficult to set correct pressure with a leak. You can actually use the high side regulator to check for leaks. Later on that. Your beer will not go flat if you remove the coupler or turn off the gas at the cylinder. This is a sealed system ( after leaks are repaired) and carbonation cannot go anywhere. What causes flat beer is incorrect CO2 PSIG.

Scott Zuhse, Instructor Micro Matic Dispense Institute

[ccschoch]

Well I am at a loss. I put suds everywhere and seen no bubbling that would indicate a leak. I put soap suds on both ends of the red hose where they connect to the regulator / coupler...I put on all over the regulator to make sure all connections were sealed, I put all over the Keg coupler....I even did the beer tower / faucet....nothing.

Guess I'll just have to wait and see how long this tank lasts...maybe I have it sealed and just won't know until this tank lasts longer than the others.

Any other ideas?

[ccschoch]

Two questions:

1. I only have a single gauge regulator. I read that a double gauge will help you test for leaks. How does this work?

2. Since I can't seem to find any leaks w/ suds, if I were to turn off the Co2 tank all together then check it in a day or two w/out dispensing any beer, SHOULD the single gauge regulator still read 10 psi (what I have it at right now) ? If it were dropping toward 0, does that tell me I am leaking or will that drop anyway since the tank was turned off?

Thanks

[ccschoch]

Any help on those last two questions would be appreciated. I cannot find the leak!!!

Thanks

[lillyjb]

well firstly a double gauge regulator is a must really, well for me anyway. One gauge recommends how much is in the gas tank and the other regulates how much PSI you are putting into your system.

With the leaks, you should use hose clamps on all of your connections, keeps all leaks out. Also check all of your seals on your kegs and couplers, gas easily leaks out there. make sure the regulator is also connected to the gas bottle properly, check the pressure relief valve on the regulator also, could be faulty

Your taps should be cleaned after every day of using them, I just put a glass of hot water over the tip before at the end of drinking, saves beer drying out

[ccschoch]

How do I check ALL connections are secure properly? It looks to me like they are, but I am new to this and not 100% sure. Like I said, I put suds ALL OVER the place, every connection/fitting/cuppler and everywhere else I could think of...NO BUBBLES at all to show leakage.

I have hose clamps in place at both ends of the red hose (Are those removable or do I need to cut them off and get new ones?) Thinking of taking everything apart and re-assembling.

When you say clean the taps after every day of use....is this to help prevent sticking??? Not sure what you're referring to as tap? You mean clean the cuppler on top of the keg OR the tower handle (what is sticking on me after using)? I think the tap is the cuppler on top of the keg, but how is that going to prevent my handle sticking problem?

[Scott Zuhse]

When any moving part begins to stick, pour warm water on it. Again, beer is like glue when it dries. You need to soften up this beer glue prior to moving the part. This is due to inactivity and submersing the spout in the glass.

As to leak testing - faucet must be closed, keg tapped (coupler), and all the pressure valves in the open position. Note the high side pressure reading and close the cylinder wheel. If the needle drops slowly, you have a slow leak. If it takes a dive, you will get soap in your eye if you swab the leak!This procedure simply tells you that you have a leak. Slow or fast - you need to repair this or the low side reading will be all over the place.

Scott Zuhse, Instructor Micro Matic Dispense Institute

[ccschoch]

Thanks for the leak test info mmcscott. Quick couple of ?'s though. Sorry, but am new to this....but when you say cylinder wheel, you mean the top of the C02 tank... to turn that off and leave the shut off valve open on the regulator itself ???? Basically I don't know what you mean by cylinder wheel.

Secondly, what is the high side pressure reading? I only have a single gauge regulator, so you mean to note if my keg is at 10 psi, then se if it drops once I do the leak test?

[topgun3208]

schoch, yeah the cylinder wheel scott is referring to is the valve on top of the co2 tank. you need a 2 gauge regulator to check for leaks that way. (one gauge is for delivery psi to keg, the other is remaining co2 psi) if you turn the co2 tank off and the co2 needle on the tank drops u have a leak somewhere

[ccschoch]

OK. I ordered and received the dual gauge. Hooked it up and got it to 500 PSI (Is this called the high gauge?) Anyway, I then turned off the knob on top of the Co2 tank and left open the shut off valve on the regulator. The 500 dropped to zero in about 5 minutes.

SO, I put soap suds on both ends of the gas line at the connecting points and found the gas leaking on the regulator where it connects to the gas line, it was actually leaking at the connecing point where the nozzel connects AND behind the wing nut on the regulator on the copper gas line....SO, I took plumbers tape and put wrapped the threaded nozzel on the tank so it would seal better, and also wrapped the tape REALLY THICK behind the wing nut on the regulator where gas was escaping.

I THOUGHT this solved my problem since when I did the leak test again the needle seemed to stay put, HOWEVER when I re-checked the readings in a coupple hours, it was down to 250PSI...so I must have only slowed the leak down??? Is this normal or should the needle drop over hours????

I NEED SERIOUS HELP!!!! Am I doing right by using plumbers tape to wrap around the nozzel? My cuppler seems fine since I suds the heck out of that and I see no bubbles....in fact, I re-soaped the regulator connections too after I noticed it at 250psi and couldn't see bubbles. I have sudsed the beer tower faucet, NOTHING, gas line...NOTHING.

I know this thread won't go away w/ my continuous questions, but I am at a loss...am I doing right???

[ccschoch]

A little further insight. I installed a new red hose last night too (didn't see any holes/cracks in the old one, but wanted to be safe), anyway, set gauge back to 500psi, and turned knob off (leaving shut off valve open on regulator). This was 8PM last night, at 7AM this morning, reading was at 250psi. Is this normal? From past replies, sounds like it should stay at 500psi if no leaks.

Again, is plumbers tape what I should use around nozzel? Also, I am using the metal clamps on both ends of the red hose...I turn those pretty tight where I am leaving a slighe indention mark on the hose...I am thinking I don't want to crank them relly hard so not to puncture the hose...is this correct or should I turn the screw and tighten them REALLY REALLY tight where the red hose will have a huge mark?

PLEASE HELP....This is getting on my nerves!!!!

[shahzadmasih]

Hi, this post is very informative; however I would like some specific information. If someone can help me then please send me a private message. Best Regards,

[indianaroller]

Use teflon tape to wrap the threads!!!

[Larry Tapper]

Originally Posted by indianaroller

Use teflon tape to wrap the threads!!!

If you have a leak at the adjusting knob, (wing nut) you have a bad diaphram in your regulator, Just get a new one and it will pay for itself on the co2 you save. When you open your tank valve, turn it all the way out, these top end seat also.