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  1. #1
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    Aug 2010
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    Default Haier Kegerator Temp Problem

    I recently bought a used Haier HBF05EBSS Kegerator, KegShell, and Numerous tap handles from my cousin for $100. Hes getting rid of all his college stuff and his loss is my gain. I cleaned everything up and it looks brand new but the temp will not get below 50 degrees. Is there a way I can remedy this?

  2. #2

    Default

    Few questions:
    What is the outside temp?
    where do you have the kegerator sitting(is the back close to a wall)
    how long have you had it plugged in?
    was the unit on its side for any length of time before you plugged it in?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Modman View Post
    Few questions:
    What is the outside temp?
    where do you have the kegerator sitting(is the back close to a wall)
    how long have you had it plugged in?
    was the unit on its side for any length of time before you plugged it in?
    95
    Yes it is sitting in a corner but not too close to the back of the wall.
    Its been plugged in for a day and a half
    I let it sit for a day upright before I plugged it in.

    I did notice that I probabally have a few leaks in the door seal but im not shure how to go about fixing those also the door is a little slanted. Also Ive read that you could adjust the thermostat and was wondering if someone had pictures on how to do that.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    24

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    http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-e...nyo-haier.html

    Go to this thread...post number 9 for pics and explanation of how to adjust the Haier or Kenmore Thermostat.

    However, you probably should fix your door hang and door seal before you mess with the thermostat.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    jwoelfel79,
    Killmeyer000 got right idea, don't mod thermostat until door issue resolved, throw bright flashlight inside and see where light leaking out, sounds like the door is bent out at the bottom, take door off and check door posts, it might be bent out a little (inpatient guys push on door if it doesn't close when keg is inside causing post to bend back a bit), this might be why your cousin sold it to you. After the door issue resolved, then use wireless thermometer or mercury type to get temps inside, then look at all Haier posts to see what mods (thermostat mod should be last) can be made.
    KB

  6. #6

    Default

    Agree, Fix the door first. I have a wireless temp gauge in my unit. If i just open the door then shut it, I can see the temp raise a few degrees. For whatever reason, these things are really sensitive.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Iowa
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    Default

    Yep first place to start has got to be sealing the door because these things make lousy portable room air conditioners. Do the light test, and you can also duct tape the door closed let it run for 24 hrs. and then see if the temp. dropped any, if it does then likely it's the seal and not low on freon which would also account for the sub-standard cooling performance. How did you arrive at the 50 degrees? Are you measuring the air temp. inside, or the temp. of a glass of water, was there anything inside the unit when you took your reading? If there is no keg tapped in there to get a 2nd. pour beer temp. from then I would fill a 5 gallon bucket with water and put it in there tape the door closed and give it 2 days run time to get the water to it's stable temp. and measure it's temp. This will give you the closest readings to what the true 2nd pour would be. If you decide to try this also pay close attention to how the compressor is cycling and report that back. Does it run all the time, if not how long does it run and then how long does it shut off for.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Default

    Well I leveled up the door as well as I could and ran a piece of paper around the gasket seal and found 3 placed where I could slide it in so I called Haier today about buying a new gasket but they havent gotten back to me yet. Does anyone know how much that will cost?

    Also what is the correct way to measure the temperature? When I took the first reading it was with an empty shell inside. I then took the shell out and placed an 12oz glass of water inside with a cooking thermometer inside overnight and got a reading of 40 degrees

    The compressor seems to run continously so I imagine that the leaks in the gasket are pretty big. Would the leaks be the reason for the continous compresor cycle?

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by jwoelfel79 View Post
    The compressor seems to run continously so I imagine that the leaks in the gasket are pretty big. Would the leaks be the reason for the continous compresor cycle?
    Quite possibly. As someone else suggested, seal the door tight with some kind of tape for 24 hours, then check the temp and monitor the compressor.

  10. #10
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    Apr 2009
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    jwoelfel79,
    You could try and clean the gasket make sure the gasket lies flat against metal, could glue strips of sheet metal to make up gap, also make sure the ice isn't building up inside, ice can prevent the unit getting colder then 32 degrees and do as Modman says, patience is your friend. I have NEVER been able to monitor beer temperature by using container of water, it's all about cycle times, air temperature below 30 degrees and not opening the door, also can you say where your thermostat is set.
    KB
    Last edited by KillianBoy; 09-02-2010 at 03:10 AM.

  11. #11
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    Aug 2010
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    I called Haier today to get a price for the door gasket and they told me that they couldnt sell me just the gasket but they could sell me a whole new door. Any advice because I really dont want to spend $100 for a new door.

  12. #12
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    Apr 2009
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    jwoelfel79,
    You could do as I suggested in post before, check the mounts themselves if you haven't already, also can you post where you have thermostat set and if there is heavy ice on cold plate. A new door won't help if your mounts are crooked, you could to see how much the mounts from Haier are if they are really crooked.
    KB

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Iowa
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    Default

    Okay now you're talking $100. door, don't go there yet. You could pop for the door just to find out that the compressor had a leak and that was instead giving you the problem. There are other reasons this could be happening too. If you really think it's the door then prove it by sealing first and testing. If you find that that's there the cooling loss is coming from then you can address that. The sheet metal idea is good, 2 more I've seen used where hot glue gun and hot shot expanding foam. In both cases the glue \ foam was applied where the gap was to the unit frame not the door then covered with plastic wrap and the door closed on it until it set. Reported good results.

    Your cousin out of collage with student loans now just coming in the tightest job market since the 80's would it be possible that he sold you a white elephant knowing that the compressor was shot and this thing was junk? Just sayin. No I'm not trying to start a family feud, just pointing out that information is key to getting a handle on these things. Your Cousin was the last person to run this system before you. I assume he presented it as a working unit less you wouldn't have bought it. So have you told him of your experience and asked for his assistance? That conservation may shed some light and help to get this resolved sooner. Information like my cousin had it running fine when he graduated and put it in storage these last 9 months and it got stored on it's side would be useful. It's all in the details as Holmes would say. People here want to help you and it's kind of like playing the board game "Clue" without the information cards it's kinda just going to be shots in the dark. I was there too once so I know that it's hard to tell what maybe important and what isn't so the way to play it is to give all the info. you know even if you don't think it matters and when asked a question give a direct answer to it, and if you don't understand what they are asking of you say so and they will better define it.

    Well were all headed in the way of the door seal because that's where your limited info. pointed us but it could be blocked cooling, low freon, etc. and I don't want you to shell out a C note just to find out the compressor is shot and you bought a cool collection of tapper handles and a really big paper weight.

    PLEASE tell us more.
    Last edited by pvs6; 09-04-2010 at 09:23 AM. Reason: Because I knew I could and then presented with an opperitunity you should take it.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    895

    Default

    If you apply pressure on the door does it compress the gasket enough to complete the seal? If it does you could simply try a bungee cord or some sort of a strap to squeeze the unit and pull the door tight. That might at least give you an answer before going the route of fabricating anything or spending any money.

  15. #15
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    Aug 2010
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    Ok guy ive been busy so lets try to answer all these questions.

    First off my cousin said that if I had any problems that he would refund me so no worries there as hes employed and doing very well for himself.

    I have the thermostat set to coldest and yes theres ice on the plate. and I do not believe that the mounts are crooked.

    He told me that he has always had heavy ice on the plate and that the beer has always been cold but not cold enough to prevent chugging. He never measured the temp inside.

    He said the last time he ran the thing was a year ago and it has been sitting upright in his garage since then.

    Any questions I missed or more information needed please dont heistate to ask. Thanks

  16. #16
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    Apr 2009
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    jwoelfel79,
    OK, you got 2 choices, do what your cousin did and run the unit near full bore, the ice will build up and beer won't get that cold, but will be drinkable or you can do what others have done and mod the unit. Most units will have slight gaps in gasket where you can slip a piece of paper through easily, the magnets usually takes care of this problem, to see if you have a serious problem throw a very bright flashlight inside and close door, if you see lines of light anywhere coming from gaps in gasket then you have a problem. I don't think your 50 degree is from a loose gasket. Ice is a fantastic insulator, the cold plate without ice will radiate at 23-28 degrees, with ice about 35-40. A unit set to the maximum will run continuously, yet with ice build up the temperature inside won't go below 40 degrees, you can try this
    1) Turn off unit, defrost, DO NOT MANUALLY CHIP ICE OFF COLD PLATE, let nature melt ice
    2) Set thermostat near the 3/4 mark (somewhere between normal and colder)
    3) Put in a wireless thermometer that measures present temp, highest and lowest
    4) Let stand for a couple of days (you can do it with or without empty keg)
    Check the highest and lowest temperature daily and rest after you check, I've had lows of 28 and highs of 48, that gives me pours of 36-38 degrees. If you get these temps, you can search under Haier and get tons of ideas for fans and tower coolers and timers (to prevent ice build up), again last thing you should do is the thermostat mod.
    KB

  17. #17
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    Aug 2010
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    Default

    Well I turned on the kegerator last night after I leveled the door and cleaned all necessary parts just to see where I was temp wise. I woke up this morning to a temp of 10 degrees. The compressor cycles when it reaches 20 degrees and cuts off at 10. Temp was taken with a food thermometer and measured air temp of the empty fridge. Please note this is with the thermostat turned down to coldest and unmodded. I guess that leveling the door did more than I thought. Is there anything I need to do/check or can I cut the temp back to 30-40 and try out a keg? Thanks for all the help.

  18. #18
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    Apr 2009
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    jwoelfel79,
    Are your sure you are reading the Fahrenheit and not Celsius? I have NEVER known the Haier to get that cold, I'd kill to get those temps from a Haier (in Celsius 10-20 would be 50-68 Fahrenheit), if it is Fahrenheit, I would cut back to normal setting see what happens, at that temperature you'll freeze the beer for sure.
    KB

  19. #19
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    Aug 2010
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    thermometer is in fahrenheit but again its just a little thermometer that you would buy in your local supermarket but it definetly says 10 degrees fahrenheit. Ill back it off tonight and see what temp it gives me tomorrow morning.

  20. #20
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    Apr 2009
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    jwoelfel79,
    Either calibrate your little thermometer or pick up a cheap wireless from Wal-Mart or other, you really need to get an accurate reading before you make any changes, again I have never known the Haier to get that low in temperature, 10 is EXTREMELY LOW.
    KB

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    24

    Default

    The ice is probably because you had leaks in the door...sucking in humid air. maybe now that's fixed.

    My Haier/Kenmore will get very cold. Don't know about 10 F air temp...but I have had 20 F using an accurate thermometer...with room to get colder on the thermostat. That's after I made adjustments to the thermostat. The keg froze...blah, blah, blah...long story.

    Clean the lines and tap really well. Buy a keg and enjoy. I'm no expert...by any stretch.

    Keep reading this forum. As you do, you will want to make some changes...like longer beer line, one or two computer fans inside, etc.

    For now though...it sounds like you got a good deal on a kegerator. Cool!

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