Tightening shanks?

[bornearly]

What is the best method for tightening the shanks on a glycol tower? There does not appear to be any way to get behind the shanks as on a column because it is riveted closed. Is there a special tool and/or technique?

Thanks in advance.

Dave

[mctripj]

what kind of tower is it? i have yet to find a tower i couldnt find a way into. if you truly cant get to the shank nut inside the tower, i might just remove the tap marker and try and use the faucet to twist the shank clockwise until it tightens. then remove the faucet and realign it. this is ofcourse hoping that the connection on the back end of the faucet is not hardline or an elbow piece... then you may be out of luck.

any other ideas guys?

[bornearly]

The tower in question is a Perlick nine faucet, glycol unit. I did take the top off another one today (because it had screws) just to see inside. There is a block of insulation that appears to be permanently mounted in. This would have to be cut away to get at the rear of the shanks. This is not in my realm as a line cleaner to get into taking these things apart. Twisting the faucet does work but seems to be temporary.

It is interesting to note that most loose shanks that I find are on the most heavily poured brands - Coors Light, etc.

[edramshaw]

For what it is worth Perlick sells their own tools. Maybe they're designed to require special tools to be tightened. Just a thought...

[TAPMAN]

Perlick glycol cooled dispensers, at least most of the ones I have come in contact with, the shank screws into the cooling blocks, much like the MM Kool-Rite towers.With the faucet still on the loose shank, turn the whole thing clockwise, this should tighten it up for you. Tapman

[tapdude]

I have this exact problem at two accounts. They are Perlick "Century " towers,and they are riveted together. I've been afraid to use the faucet twisting method to tighten them,for fear of kinking the lines....was thinking of drilling out the rivets,but i'm sure the towers are shot full of foam anyway... are you saying that if the shank screws into the cooling blocks that kinking wouldn't be a concern?

[Scott Zuhse]

As Tapman indicates, the shanks are threaded directly into a housing located inside the tower which cannot be accessed. You will need to leave the faucet on and turn the shanks counter clockwise to remove or clockwise to tighten. You may get away with simply tightening the shanks and then reset the faucets. Hopefully the "O-ring" seals on the back of the shanks are in good shape. Otherwise they will require replacing.

This applies to a Century system only. If these are air cooled towers, you should be able to remove the tower caps to access the shank nut and tighten.

[Larry Tapper]

I have ran into this more than once, the spline on the shank is bad, so to replace the shank I hac to use a spiral easy out then replace with a new Perlick shank. It is much worse when they break the spot welds on the base of the tower. Perlick could not tell me how ot repair.

[Scott Zuhse]

Larry,

This is why we are very succesful with the Kool-Rite technology in the Micro Matic towers. There are never any issues with the shanks.