New tap install question

[67camaro]

I'm installing a new walk-in right below the taps in the basement of my bar. very short air cooled run, no 90's.
My question is on the shank "bore size"????? I see them at 1/4 and 3/16 considering a 6' vertical run which should I use????? I'm running 3/8 beer lines on CO2 only.
thanks in advance for any assistance you may be able to offer.

[Scott Zuhse]

1/4" shanks should be fine. Question is, why are you using 3/8" ID vinyl line? If you are using 100% CO2, you must maintain temperature 24/7 at the keg and all the way to the shank while appying the correct pressure based on carbonation level of the beer and this temperature (38F). Possibly this may be 14 PSIG.

If your vertical distance for gravity is 12' from the bottom of the keg to the faucet, this equates to 6 lbs. restriction. Since you may be propelling the keg with 14 PSIG, you still need 8 lbs. in the beer tubing between the keg and shank to balance PSIG and restriction pressure in the system. This will provide approx. 128 oz / min. flow rate.

Suppose this line length required is estimated at 18'. You could use a combination of 14' of 1/4" ID barrier tubing from the shank to a splicer connected to 4' of 1/4" ID vinyl at the keg for flexibility to tap multiple kegs. For a slightly slower flow rate, add a foot to the vinyl.

Remember, if you cannot sustain temperature with correct PSIG to the keg, you will end up with a wasteful system. So much waste that you probably could have originally purchased a glycol system and gas blender twice over.

Scott Zuhse, Instructor Micro Matic Dispense Institute

[67camaro]

Thanks for the help Scott,
Here's the low down... Very small bar tight budget, but is now expanding.
3/8 ID vinyl from barrel to shank.
Total beer line length 16ft.
Vertical run 11ft (gravity restriction).
100% CO2, set at 14lbs, one regulator for all beers.
Walk-in averages 37 deg.
5 beers, Bud, Bud light, Miller, Miller light, Pabst

Thats what I have now and it works great... Pours better than most I've seen. My initial thought was to just duplicate everything I have now for the new section of bar. the info you replied with has caused some concern for me now though.
Again my beer pours great... What am I missing here?

Thanks so much for your help!

[67camaro]

Thanks Jeff for your help,

I do turn kegs quickly, I have my market down pat rather well and considering I only carry 5 brands it moves fast. My slowest moving brand still goes in about 4 day's most runout in 2 day's.
With that in mind should I switch to 1/4" lines? Strange thing is that none of the distributors have mentioned a need for mixed gas? I'm sure you guys know more than they do though. In fact all of the bars in my nieghborhood use 100% CO2.

I don't carry MGD, and the only foam I ever see is the first 2 glasses of the day on Miller highlife.

Thanks again for your help.

[Scott Zuhse]

The reason 1/4" barrier line was recommended is due to the minimal amount of beer the line carries versus 3/8". The ideal set up for any draught system is one that the least amount of beer between the keg and the faucet. Plus, barrier is much more friendly to the beer than vinyl, which is antiquated technology.

If you are 100% certain that you can maintain temperature 24/7 from the keg to the faucet and you are happy with your existing system design, go for it.

Scott Zuhse, Instructor Micro Matic Dispense Institute

[ernestbud]

try this simple but easy fix just pu 5' of 3/16 line at the faucet the res with3/8 and how far is your lift going to be then just add the app amt of pressure shouldn't be more than a couple pounds higher than the 12-14