Sankey Tap Question

[Gary7770]

I have a question about a Sankey type tap (US Type D I believe). I understand that there should be some rattling from a ball inside the tap. Is it possible for that ball to come out? And if so, what are the ramifications of using the tap without that ball inside?

Thanks,
Gary

[mmwmike]

The rattling sound is the check ball moving. You should hear it freely rattling around when the keg coupler is not attached to the keg. The check ball prevents beer that has left the keg from flowing back into the keg in the event CO2 pressure is lost. If it does not freely move, the coupler probably needs cleaning. The coupler will work without the check ball, it just won't prevent back flow.

[Gary7770]

Mike,

Thank you for your reply.

1) Is it possible for that "check ball" to come out of the coupler under ordinary conditions?

The problem that I am trying to troubleshoot is Wild Beer. The first keg that I had was fine, the second keg was wild throughout its life. I'm trying to figure out if I have a problem with my system, or if I just got a "bad keg" (is there such a thing?)

The reason that I'm asking about that Check Ball is that I believe it is not in the coupler (little white plastic ball) and I'm wondering if that has anything to do with my problem?

Thanks,
Gary

[mmwmike]

The check ball should not come out of the coupler, the retainer at the top of the probe should keep it in. But if the retainer was missing the check ball may block beer from flowing up the line - agitating the beer and creating foam. But if you are missing the check ball - that would not cause foam.

Wild beer could be a result of poor seals with CO2 leaking out and air entering. Check out:
1. Bottom seal on your coupler. Is it there? Is it in good condition - no breaks or chips?
2. It is possible to have a "bad" keg. Sometimes the CO2 valve (black rubber seal) in the keg valve has been damaged during previous uses.

Wild beer could also be the result of:
1. Over pressurized beer - check the regulator
2. Beer temperature - should be 36° to 38°

[Gary7770]

Excellent ... I'll be getting a new keg tonight, so that should run out a "bad" keg.

I've tried various CO2 pressures ranging from 5 to 15 psi, so I don't think thats the problem. And I believe that the tempurature is ok but I will double check that ...

I'll also take a look that the bottom seal on the coupler, but since this is only the second keg, I can't imagine that it would be having a problem already. I will however double check it.

I'll let you know how I make out with the new keg or if one of the other suggestions was the cause of the problem.

Thanks,
Gary

[Scott Zuhse]

If the seal on the top of the keg is cracked, cut, torn,etc., this will allow the pressure to flow into the beer stream and cause foam. This unfortunately is not uncommom. If this is the case and you have not dispensed to much beer, try to take it back for credit. As to pressure, use an accurate thermometer to check beer temperature and if you are at sea level and temperature is 38 degrees F, your pressure should be around 14 PSIG if it is a domestic beer. 16 if it is a Coors Brewing CO. product. Adjust up one pound for 40 degrees, down one pound for 36 degrees.

[Gary7770]

The Results Show:

A couple of things happened, so I'm not going to be sure of the exact cause of my previous problem. But I'm going to have to believe that I just was unlucky enough to have had a bad keg.

1) Replaced the check ball & retainer (To answer my own question, yes the check ball can come out if that retainer comes out)
2) New Keg

And I have Wild Beer no more

Now I did inspect the seal around the top of the keg that I was replacing and didn't see anything obvious that could have been wrong with the seal or anything else.

Thanks for all the help,
Gary

[turnerhq]

Gary,

I had a keg doing much the same thing and as it turns out my regulator was bad and it over-carbonated the beer. I replaced the regulator and spent two days flattening the beer until it was manageable. I've got no problems now.

Q