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  • Power supply for fans

    I bought 2 Cooler Master JetFlo 120 fans. I am going to let the kegerator control the 1 fan by mounting it in the same position as the original. The 2nd fan is in my tower cooler which I will need a power supply. I tried using a 12vdc cord I had laying around the house but it shorted the fan immediately. What would be a suitable power cord for this particular fan?
    I came across this one:
    CG 110v AC to 5v DC Power Supply with 4 Pin Molex (500mA)

  • #2
    These are pc fans you can use a wall wart to run them. Hun? the kegerator can't control the fan? These are 12 volt dc fans with .4 amp max supplied to them. Find a wall wart 12 dc volts and no more than 400 milliamps. These are over kill fans for whats needed. At 4.8 watts apiece or about a 9 watt light bulb for the pair your doing more interior heating than moving the air around. It's a balance, move just enough air to make the temp uniform without adding to much heat to the system.

    These fans are best installed on your computer where their performance will make a difference. I have 2 on my flow master 240 radiator on this CPU and they are a cyclone but nosiy as hell pushing all that air. You don't want this in your kegerator trust me. The smallest fans necassary to blend the air while giving off the least amount of heat is what your after here.

    Tell us more about your system and we can steer you to the best chocie. We need to know what brand/model the unit is, and if it's new or used. Then there will be many more ? asked of you to fine tune it to perfection. If you stick with us and answer the ? your asked to the best of your ability you will get to having a well functioning system sooner than if you try to go it alone.

    In a sense you're lucky you haven't blindly built a tower cooler or chamber fan yet so if you can take advice from whose here that have build their units to perfection and are willing to explain their experinces and what they found worked and didn't you will be ahead of the game.
    Last edited by pvs6; 05-13-2015, 11:56 PM.

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    • #3
      How do I power this?
      Fahrenheit Centigrade Digital LCD Thermometer Temperature Meter Gauge C F PC Mod | eBay

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      • #4
        It has a 4 pin male / female connecter that just plug splices into the HD power supply plug. Are you trying to use this inside a kegerater? The 4 pin drive plugs on a computer power supply are 5 volt dc.

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        • #5
          yes the plan is to install this in the kegerator

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          • #6
            Chunkyblamm,
            Why, for what purpose? Yes, I understand it is a thermometer, but there are simpler ways to read an interior temperature.
            KB

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            • #7
              it's small enough to recess it into the top of my kegerator so that I don't have to open the door

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              • #8
                Chunkyblamm,
                Honestly, though it might fit, it will be too much trouble to get it hooked up, just get a wireless thermometer like attached, Wal-Mart $10. Also you really don't need to show what the temperature inside unit, just bells and whistles.
                KB
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Just as Killian says, if you want toys with bells and whistles get a digital temp. controller. It will give you the same LED temp readout but also do a much better job keeping a steady temp inside than your stoct T-stat does now.

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                  • #10
                    Anyone have any experience with this?
                    Kegco TC-321 Digital Thermostat Power Control Unit Temperature Controller Johnson Controls | BeverageFactory.com
                    Looks like the temp control display is small enough to recess into the top

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                    • #11
                      Chunkyblamm,
                      I really don't want to be blunt, but I really don't want to answer 1000 questions, what is exactly your problem and what do you want to do to solve it?
                      My assumption is you have temperature problems with an inherited Danby, depending on problem, you might be able to fix but others not so much so. How cold does your unit get and how old is the unit?
                      What I have seen of Kegco, many of their products are questionable and I'd stick to JC ETCs
                      KB
                      Last edited by KillianBoy; 05-17-2015, 08:44 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Sorry for asking questions on a forum I guess. But what I am trying to accomplish is to have an external temp control. However, if I go with the JC A419 I'd like to have a digital readout in the front of the unit, hence the thermometer listed above. If I can have the controls and the read out on the front that would be ideal as may be possible with the kegco TC-321. However, if kegco is not a quality product or will not function the way I'd like then I am also considering a ITC-1000f. I am completely re-painting and doing some custom fabrication so aesthetics are just as much a priority as functionality and usability.
                        Last edited by Chunkyblamm; 05-17-2015, 09:44 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Chunkyblamm,
                          I really don't mind questions but if it goes round and round and round where the questions were basically senseless because in the end what you wanted to do couldn't or should've not been done.
                          OK, it is all about looking good and getting a pretty digital display, then get the eBay one, either run an old computer power supply to it you should be good or get battery power pack from Radio Shack, run 6 volts, it should work.
                          If it is about temperature control, there more to it than hooking up a ETC for a Danby. If you want to get the Kegco (or any other temperature control) the control board needs to be bypassed, read the Danby sticky on how.
                          If you want to make the unit colder, don't think fans or ETC will help if the unit won't get below 45 degrees, most likely unit needs service.
                          Again I don't mind questions, but if you ask me how to bypass I'll just refer you to the sticky, if you ask questions about control board, I'll say check in sticky.
                          Again I can help you get to your destination, but if I don't know what it is, it makes it harder on me.
                          KB

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                          • #14
                            I get you Chunky we are alike to a point. I tend to over engineer too. I'm function, your wanting form and function that results in coolness at least that's how I'm seeing it. I get Killian too. He's been here helping people get their systems to function right for a long time. He has a knowledge base to do that for almost anyone willing to work with him. He's goal oriented, explain the problem or what you're trying to do and he wants to help you get it done.

                            Asking ? on a forum is what it's about to learn, we weren't being curt. I won't speak for Killian but I confess to wondering about your focus reading this and your other posts, they seem to have a shotgun nature to them. You yourself may just be exploring what's all possible to do with the unit to give you a plan of where to start and what you want it to be when finished. If so say so and the information you receive will be tailored to that ends. If there's an issue you need fixed explain what the problem is and you will get information geared to a remedy.

                            Flush mounting a temp controller into a unit is problematic. You have to carver away insulation to make room for it. This can result in the controller being too close to the cold air inside. That can cause condensation to attack the controller. As you know water is an enemy of circuitry.

                            I have digital temp read outs measuring the shank in my tower, the top of the keg box, the bottom too and the compressor's temp. Also the Ranco temp controller's L.E.D shows the temp of the beer inside the bottom of my keg and adjust it to stay within 1 degree. So you see I have bells and whistles too but I grant you I don't care much for form as you see in the picture's.

                            Since you do I suggest that it would be easier to build a display housing for all these instrument to be flush encased in on the back of your unit. Your friends will still have a wow factor. When their pouring a beer they can see the back but not the front.

                            Read outs
                            Picture 005.jpg

                            Tower blower
                            P1010001.jpg

                            !st beer even after 24 hours
                            Killians Red
                            DSC_0739.jpg
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by pvs6; 05-18-2015, 12:23 AM.

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                            • #15
                              pvs6,
                              Yup
                              KB

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