Coupler Issue

[Box Jockey]

Hello,

I have been troubleshooting several issues which has lead me to a question about the following tap:

D System - Keg Coupler - Low Profile - FT44T-PR
FT44T-PR

I am a green horn to say the least so apologies if this is a dumb question. I have the tap disconnect from everything. If I put it in the tapped position, as it would be in use, I can blow through the C02 side and there are not obstructions. If I blow through the CO2 side when it is in the "off" position, de-coupled from the keg, I can still blow some air through though it is restricted. Is this intended to prevent beer heading up the CO2 line or should I not be able to blow through it at all when it is disconnected?

[KillianBoy]

Box Jockey,
I guess everything is going good, quote from your last elderly post ("I will let you know how it goes.")
If probe is disengaged, you shouldn't be able to blow anything through, when you twist coupler on keg first part locks coupler to keg as it stops top of coupler should continue which engages the coupler and lowers the probe into keg which opens the CO2 to keg, hope that helps, will check back in couple of months and await your reply.
KB

[Box Jockey]

Have not responded in a while as I have spent enough to buy another complete kegerator on parts and have yet to experience a completely successful keg so I have been discouraged. That being said a digital thermostat has gotten me as close to success as I have ever been. However beer still pours white with foam (it is always clear in the line from the keg to the faucet but never pours clear as I see in bars and restaurants).

So if I can blow through the coupler even when it is disengaged does that mean something needs to be replaced internally? It doesn't look like you can take any of this apart.

[KillianBoy]

Box Jockey,
Don't know if you understanding what I am saying, honestly don't think it is the coupler anyway.
OK, look at your old coupler, pull the lever up and down, you will see the probe go up and down, up CO2 stops flowing, down it flows, on low profile, it is the little extra it has to travel to engage the probe in the on position. If you just take it off keg, you can't blow through it, you have to rotate top of coupler to "blow through".
Again don't think it is coupler, if line is clear beer color as it flows from coupler but white as video shows from faucet then problem is in faucet.
I'll run through old thread and see what was suggested and what it looks like again but don't think it is the coupler, if you think it is try the stock coupler (without beer check valve) and see.
Yup, my assessment is the same as before, look at the faucet/shank area, 90 degree turn is usual problem area on shank, faucet the adding of extra washer is the usual problem.
So, if you can post pictures of faucet/shank area or describe parts that you see or come off, if replaced, again did you put together exactly the same as original? Did you extend or replace line to 7+ feet?
KB

[pvs6]

I use this sweet flush mount coupler too. Loving it.
How are you blowing through it anyway? If the co2 line is intact you're pumping air into your tank by blowing into the probe? Of course not. Guess it's just the coupler with no lines and you're blowing into it. WHY? And from which end? Me having fun at your expense. Down to business.

If you suspect it's flawed then that's easy. Cut a gallon milk jug in half, fill it with water. Attach the co2 line like your ready to tap a keg. Indeed set it up like you will be using it. Immerse the coupler untapped with gas on and coupler disengaged then check for bubbles.

If you see some then yeah it's flawed. BUT so what.

I alway turn off the gas when re-tapping, you should too, just good practice.

Even if it is a 2 way street the keg won't be blowing extra co2 into your tank.

Turn the valve off at the reg. when you re-tap and all is swell.

[Box Jockey]

Thank you Killian and pvs6 for the responses!

I am quite good at confusing issues so you were correct in that I didn't understand. I did lengthen the beer line along with the new thermostat and new faucet.

To pvs6's point, yes I had no hoses connected to it. It is as if I just received it in the mail. As it stands it would have failed the milk jug test which is why I could blow through it. Figured out how to take it apart and there were some solids that I was able to clean off and now it seems much better. Out of curiosity, is the location where the probe touches the tap when it is disengaged supposed to me a metal on metal contact or is there supposed to be an O-ring? I assume since this was the way I received it that it is not supposed to have an O-ring but let me know if that is not the case!

Anyways on to another one of your points. Looks like I am succeeding in doing everything 100% wrong so far. Its almost like my super power! So take a look at the pic, I am assuming as you stated that there should only be 1 O-ring here, not one on the faucet side and one on the tower side.





Everything is squeaky clean now and I have removed the O-ring on the tower side. Also read in another post that the probe on my digital thermostat should not be submerged, it should be reading air temp. I had assumed since the model I purchased came with a submersible probe that that is what I was supposed to do. Got a fresh keg acclimating now, I am hoping with these 3 fixes I should be in business. I will keep you posted and I will try not to make it a month this time

[KillianBoy]

Box Jockey,
Why is it that members buy fancy new faucets and not buy cleaning gear. Your shank is really dirty, you may have to get a green scrubber and clean the round area, then buy:
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To clean the 90 degree bend, get the soft brush to go further down, hope the faucet fits the shank, if it doesn't you have to get a new shank.
Honestly stick with old faucet, clean shank and see, don't go changing everything at one time, get running with gear you have, then worry about changing parts out.
When you start changing faucets on me it hard to say what is what, rear closing faucets have a flat washer, forward sealing faucets (like the Perlick) have a "O" ring, which is on the faucet side and NOT shank (tower) side, it might be that the shank and faucet may not fit right together (I assume it is the Nostalgia?), that is why the "O" ring ended up on shank.
Pretty sure the connection between the probe and keg is the same on all couplers, should be a prong (like cylinder with 2 channels cut into it) this prong contacts the metal ball in keg and I think beer passes through channels, bottom (coupler side)of the prong it should have 1 washer, this missing will cause gas and beer to mix and cause white pours, post picture of bottom to confirm if missing.
If you need help with the External Temperature Controller, post make and model and see if any member has same, most digital can go water and air but settings are different.
KB

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

KB his shank isn't dirty its just a cheaper chrome shank that the chrome is already worn off on.Thats just bare brass surface we are looking at.See this all the time on those towers.

[KillianBoy]

PointPleasantNJBeerguy,
D'know, I have chrome and doesn't look that bad, a pass with green scrubber should show if it is chrome worn off or something else, but if NE shank it may not fit Perlick faucet and point is moot, needs to be replaced if OP wants to use the fancy new faucet.
KB

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

Some "older" NE shanks won't take any faucet properly against their shank except their own.

[Box Jockey]

Correct it is nostalgia.

Faucet was a gift: Polished 304 Stainless Steel Faucet

Photo of shank is after scrubbing. There are parts that are a darker copper color but it doesnt seem to scrub off. Wipe down with white paper towel yields no residue on towel.

Close up of coupler. As it stands which is the way I received it, there is no washer or anything between the back side of the probe and the coupler body.





Parts of the coupler around the probe and such appear dirty in the photo, but they have been soaked in this and scrubbed with a scour pad.



Is there a way to tell simply by attaching the faucet if it is a no go? For instance should it be able to seat back onto the shank a certain distance?

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

coupler looks ok..Get rid of those $hit plastic hose clamps on your co2 line.

[KillianBoy]

Am I mistaken but isn't the probe seal not there? Coupler looks non-standard, never seen one like it, so don't know if just the way it is or missing?
Box Jockey,
Without screwing on, just put faucet on shank it should be a really tight fit, teeth from one should fit on teeth of other, should be a perfect fit, twist right of left it shouldn't move at all. It is a compression joint, faucet and shank are pushed together with washer or "O" ring between.
KB

[PointPleasantNJBeerguy]

KB.I did post that the probe washer was missing too and erased that post. I went and looked at an "OLD" perlick low profile coupler I had in my inventory and it doesn't have a probe washer either.

[KillianBoy]

PointPleasantNJBeerguy,
OK, so are Perlick low profile couplers different from MM low profile? If neither need a probe seal/washer, then does it rely on the keg seal for airtight fit? If so, Box Jockey, is this the same keg as one from video or another keg?
Are you sure it is a Polished 304 and not another brand? I can't see the faucet shaft assembly.
I hate to say this but you HAVE TO identify parts properly, if it is a 304 then fine but it doesn't look like 304, if it is MM low profile then fine but PointPleasantNJBeerguy what makes you think it a Perlick?
So as I asked in the other thread, was it used before you started using it, do you still have a standard coupler and not the low profile?
KB