Recharged Haier Kegerator will not shut off

[Johnrevis]

I had to reharge the freon my kegerator. I thought it went well, until I realized that now the compressor does not shut off. The inside of the box is well cold now (below freezing) but the compressor does not cycle off. I changed out the thermostat with a new one and I am still having the issue. Does anyone have any suggestions? I can't quite figure out how to get this done. Thank you all!

[KillianBoy]

Johnrevis,
Recharging the freon shouldn't cause any problems with whether compressor goes on and off, thermostat on the other hand does.
Make sure it doesn't go off and check with a wireless thermometer, "below freezing" really doesn't mean anything, units can go below 28 degrees without turning off. If it falls to 22 degrees then I'd say it might be the thermostat.
PLEASE don't take this the wrong way but are you sure it was hooked up correctly? Is it EXACTLY the same as stock Haier?
If all fails, just buy a external temperature controller.
KB

[Johnrevis]

Thank you for taking the time to reply. That's good to know. I will wait it out a little longer and see how low it goes. I'm not optimistic as it does not turn off when l lower the thermostat setting. I did replace it with a Haier stock thermostat. I am sure that the wiring is same as when factory installed. I am a total novice with this stuff. I didn't trust myself enough to give myself a chance to screw up the wiring. Anyways...I appreaicte the time. Thank you.

[KillianBoy]

Johnrevis,
No problem, you shouldn't make thermostat lower (if you mean colder), if you make thermostat colder, set-point will go lower and compressor may not shut off since unit may not get that cold, try the warmest setting then work your way colder if it shuts off.
If it were me, I would invest in a plug-in external temperature controller, wire the 2 wires at thermostat together (1 from electrical current and 2nd running to compressor), plug unit into ETC, then ETC to household current, then all you have to do is run sensor inside unit.
KB

[Johnrevis]

KB,
Interesting. Would the wiring have to be connected, or will it just override the installed thermostat? Thanks for all the help and the suggestion.

[KillianBoy]

Johnrevis,
If you don't know what I mean in my post, you probably didn't install the new thermostat, when you said "I didn't trust myself enough to give myself a chance to screw up the wiring", does it mean you had someone else install?
Most thermostats will have 4 wires, 2 to sensor and 2 that handle electrical, as I said in my last post, 1 provides power to unit, with thermostat, along with sensor control when to turn compressor on (the 2nd wire the runs from thermostat). By wiring the 2 wires together (it MUST be the right wires), the compressor will run non-stop, thereby bypassing the thermostat. Once you have this done, plug the unit into a ETC, ETC into electrical socket, then all you have to do find a way to run the sensor into unit, then you will have a perfectly working cooling unit.
Right now, make sure you set thermostat to the warmest setting, not the coldest, don't open the door and wait for it to shut off. Best to have a wireless thermometer w/ memory, it should read the coldest temperature the unit gets, if <22 then not shutting off.
So can you confirm if a technician installed thermostat, an electrician or friend with moderate skills. Thermostat needs to be correctly wired, if sensor not wired right unit may run non-stop.
KB

[Johnrevis]

I am not doing a good job articulating. I meant in the quote above that I was not going to give myself a chance to screw up. As in, when I installed the new thermostat, I left the old one connected to the wires until the last possible moment so it would be dang near impossible to mess it up. There were only three wires connected to the old thermostat (white, black and green). I know I installed it to match exactly as it did on the old one. I am at the warmest setting right now. Hopefully, I will be pleasantly surprised tomorrow. Thank you.

[KillianBoy]

Johnrevis,
Yeah I really can't understand what you did, so what do you mean by "I left the old one connected to the wires until the last possible moment so it would be dang near impossible to mess it up." Don't know if you left everything connected (electrical) before replacing or what.
I was going to mention the "but" in regards to the 4 wire thermostat, so can post model, maybe a picture of the info plate, if not how old machine is and if this an exact replacement for your Haier.
KB

[Johnrevis]

I have attached both the info plate and the part ordered. The thermostat part number is RF-7350-77. It has three prongs on the bottom. On the original, replaced thermostat the black wire was housed in the middle prong, the white on the prong closer to the compressor and the green on the side attached to the body of the casing. When installing, I removed the probe from the fridge, and threaded the new one through. I did not remove the electrical components until I had completed the threading of the new probe. After the threading was complete, I put both parts next to each other and moved the electricity to match. I have attached a picture of how the new was installed too. Thank you.
Johnimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

[KillianBoy]

Johnrevis,
Thanks for the pics, seems like a newer one, all you have to do is wait and see if it shuts off. Might be sensor is in wrong place, wire twisted wrong or maybe you got a bad thermostat.
If it doesn't shut off, I would bypass thermostat, wire the black and the white together and buy a plug-in type ETC and you will have a better cooling unit.
KB

[pvs6]

Time line: The system was not cooling well. You charged the system only, (approx how long ago) making no other repairs.

Not long after you became aware the compressor does not cycle down. (are you aware if it cycled before you charged it).

You when suspect that the T-stat picked that peculiar repair downtime to malfunction, so you replaced it. It made no difference and still didn't cycle off whence your post.

After T-stat replacement did you have beer in the unit or are you empty just measuring air temp when you say below freezing?

It's been a few days now, so if you're not opening the door all the time to check temp. & it is running non-stop while getting below freezing is your keg froze yet? If it's been running constant what is the beer temp right now?

If the old T-stat worked before the recharge but not after & the new one doesn't function either then both T-stats are most likely good and the fault lays else where.

Which begs the question why you recharged the system. Was your beer just not getting cool enough and you assumed it was from lack of coolant?

Warm room air temp entering the box can mimic reduced cooling cooling capacity. Have you checked the door aliment and door gasket for gaps? Also the tower and gas lines can emit air & warming to occur.

Was this a new or used unit & how old is it?

If you address the answers to the red questions we may be able to arrive at the solution quicker.

[Johnrevis]

Hi pvs6! I very much appreciate you offering me a hand. I did not even see your post until just now. At the advice of KillianBoy, I did pick up an ETC. Now my temperature is hovering between 34 and 40 degrees and the compressor is cycling properly. Everything is aces.

Since you asked: there was a puncture in the evaporator. I sealed it, pulled a vac and then charged it. There was no beer in the unit.

Thank you again.

KB,

Much appreciated with all your advice. You totally helped me through.

Thanks again, have a great 2015!