Docooler Danby control

[booksell]

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy153/yso191/008-1.jpg

In this photo I connected a power line running to the tab, where the red line goes. How do I connect a common or negative wire to override the compressor? I hooked it up to a Docooler Farenheit Thermostat controller with an extension cord cut in half, following these instructions:

Disclaimer: I am posting this as a guide for anyone else like me that has 0 electrical experience but might have played with other crafts in the past. Not responsible for electrocution. This is my interpretation of many other blogs, pictures, and with the supervision of family electricians. My device is working and is safe.
Materials
a chest freezer, preferably a 5-ish cubic ft one. (will not suffer any damage) 3 prong extension cord, preferably a short 6 or 9 ft
thermostat from Amazon- remove the back cover to work by taking out the screw
wire strippers
electrical tape
awesome scissors
tiny flathead screw driver
1. Pull the thermometer wire in 2 about a half inch (came with thermostat) 2. put one end of each of the split wires into ports 5 and 6
3. Use the tiny screw driver to clamp down on the wires
4. CUT THE EXTENSION CORD IN HALF (yes, it's scary and weird)
5. Place the pronged end to your right and the female (receptor of a plug) end to the left
6. strip the outer extension cord off about 6 inches from the cut on both sides, exposing 3 wires on each side
(working with only that 3 inch piece you just cut)
7. cut about 3 inches of black wire from the right side.
8. use the wire stripper tool or scissors to expose the copper wire right in the middle
9. work the black wire apart on both sides so that about 1/4 inch of wire is exposed in the middle
10. strip off 1/4 inch of black rubber, exposing the wire on either side
11. twist the ends tight and clamp them into ports 1 and 3
at this point you have the thermostat with 3 wires in the ports and 3 ports free
12. pick up the pronged side of the extension cord
13. strip off about 3/4 inch of the rubber from the black cord
14. wrap the exposed copper of the black wire from pronged extension cord around the exposed middle of the 3 inch strip that is secured into the thermostat. twist it around itself
15. use electrical tape to cover any of the exposed wire on the black (now y-shaped) wire that is attached from the pronged side to the thermostat 16. strip off 1/4 inch of the only free black wire left (the one on the female side of the extension chord)
17. twist, insert, and secure the free black wire into port 2
18. Strip off 3 inches of each white wire from both sides of the cut extension chord
19. twist together the 3 inches of exposed wire creating a Y facing away from you
20. wrap the exposed wire with electrical tape except for the last 1/4 inch of this joined wire.
21. insert the tip of the exposed /wrapped white wire into port 4 and secure.
At this point you have two cut green wires, and all of the ports have been filled. You are wondering what to do with the last wires.
22. strip off an inch from both sides of the green wire.
23. twist the green wires together to "rejoin" them in a strait line.
24. Cover the twisted and exposed green wire with electrical tape.
25. cover anything copper that's still exposed with more electrical tape.
26. make absolutely sure NONE of the copper wire from black/white/green is exposed or touching any other color of wire other than it's own color. NO CROSSING STREAMS (ghostbusters)
You're done assembling!
Plug the pronged end of your extension cord into the wall Insert the thermometer into the chest freezer.
Plug the freezer into the female end of your extension cord.
Play with the settings till its on "cool" instead of "heat" Use electrical tape to keep that sucker on the lid.
put it at a temp you want.
Watch significant other be in awe of you!


***if You follow the diagram, and I plug the Danby compressor power line into ports 1&3 it STAYS ON with the Thermostat device following these instructions, however the compressor is still NOT regulated by the Docooler Thermostat, as it stays on indefinitely and the kegerator gets too cold. The load is on port 2 in this writing instruction, SO I've connected the power line to that instead and NO power. What I want to do is override this compressor. I'm not fully getting enough information to do this on these chatboards, although it is very close. Can someone please help?

I read the Johnson Control modification on the top of the kegerator, I can't understand how to make this modification. I just want to connect my thermostat controller, to the compressor, and via a cut extension cord lines. How can I do this?

PLEASE HELP

[KillianBoy]

booksell,
I am really not sure what you are asking or saying or why you are posting a guide regarding "chest freezer" in Danby thread.
Understand the Danby bypass is Danby specific, basically only 1 model (not a chest freezer), also your picture didn't come through (not sure if it is a link thing or size thing), try posting using MM attachment system (keep mb size small).
Try to be clear I have no idea when you ask:
"I read the Johnson Control modification on the top of the kegerator, I can't understand how to make this modification." no idea what you are asking or saying.
You said:
"What I want to do is override this compressor.", don't know what compressor but you don't override the compressor, you override the thermostat.
Honestly I won't read your guide, port this and that without picture or explanation won't help me or you, I will research this "docooler" thermostat.
Next post can you confirm EXACT model Danby you are modifying and explain above, take you time and be clear.
KB
OK, now I see what you are doing, you cut and pasted a post from Amazon regarding installation of said Docooler thermostat on chest freezer and using the compressor bypass for the Danby. Right now I would say, don't do anything the post says, from what I gather it replaces thermostat on a chest freezer (wired-type). The compressor bypass posted here just bypasses the Danby thermostat using a JC ETC (plug-in type), apples and oranges, post exactly what ETC (thermostat/controller) you have, model of Danby you have and what exactly what you intend to do.
I looked through the guide, like the compressor bypass here will work, but just really over thunk, I would have just used the docooler to replace the keezer thermostat, easy. You can do the same with the Danby, depending on the model. I think one member used the docooler, I think it was a 1 and done, so don't know if it worked.
I would have used post #19 with a JC, your docooler should have basically the same connections as the JC, just have to translate what goes where between the 2 ETCs.

[booksell]

Danby DKC645BLS 5.8-Cu.Ft. Keg Override stock thermostat and connect to compressor

008-1.jpg

I was sure I wouldn't get this right the first time.

Thanks for your response.

I'm using the:

Docooler 10A 110V Digital Temperature Controller Thermocouple -58~194 Fahrenheit with Sensor

I'm trying to do it the easiest way and override the Danby DKC645BLS thermostat, keeping the digital display, and running wire correctly to the compressor from the side panel. (See picture) I am doing this modification from the side panel and to not cut wires on the top panel.

Here we go:

Please reference the Docooler wiring diagram. There are 2, I have it connected the way of the handwritten by me, which follows directions from Amazon about how to connect the Docooler thermostat by wiring it to a cut extension cord.

Here is my problem.

If I plug the hot compressor wire (red wire from side panel shot) from the side panel to ports 1/3 of Docooler it comes on and doesn't shut off by Docooler thermostat. This is unplugging the original red wire to the Danby compressor and rewiring up to the connect to the Docooler thermostat. I tried to connect it to port 2 as per the wiring diagram and the compressor THEN doesn't come on. (A question I have is, where do I find the proper wiring connection, like the common wire or negative wiring [I'm guessing it's the black wire attaching to the compressor down at the side panel - and I need to wire that up to port 4?

Or, more precisely, how do I properly wire the compressor to the Docooler thermostat mentioned, with review of the Danby compressor compartment wires, their colors, and the wiring diagrams provided for the Docooler, using a cut extension cord???

Again, my problem is I hooked up the compressor to get power; however, it was not wired properly to the Docooler thermostat, to shut off by the set temperature of 34 F. The compressor would just stay on running, so I have it unplugged right now as it is not effectively wired correctly to understand signals from the Docooler and turn off or turn on.

I think that is clear to understand, with everything here, if the pictures show up correctly. I look forward to your response.

*The JC Thermostat was what I was referring to from instructions involving wiring from the top panel, where you are left with a black, white, and red wire, to wire to the JC.

*And yes "I would have just used the docooler to replace the keezer thermostat, easy." - this is my goal, I just don't know how to properly wire the docooler, so I need help with that, so it regulates the compressor.
DC WD.jpg <----- how I had the Docooler wired, with male and female plug

[KillianBoy]

booksell,
I will ask you again don't combine both modifications, they are incompatible, one is meant for plug-in, don't know what the other is meant for, but if you use a extension cord, you are not understanding the process, I would look at post #19, match load, common and power (someone PLEASE help him out). All you would need is a short piece of 3 wire Romex or 3 lengths of wire and bunch of wire nuts. Your way is complicated and by my estimation dangerous if you have "0" electrical experience, I have enough knowledge to make me dangerous and I would NEVER do it your way, PLEASE STOP and wait for an expert to chime in with another way or confirm that #19 will work with what to connect to what.
KB

[booksell]

booksell,
I will ask you again don't combine both modifications, they are incompatible, one is meant for plug-in, don't know what the other is meant for, but if you use a extension cord, you are not understanding the process, I would look at post #19, match load, common and power (someone PLEASE help him out). All you would need is a short piece of 3 wire Romex or 3 lengths of wire and bunch of wire nuts. Your way is complicated and by my estimation dangerous if you have "0" electrical experience, I have enough knowledge to make me dangerous and I would NEVER do it your way, PLEASE STOP and wait for an expert to chime in with another way or confirm that #19 will work with what to connect to what.
KB

Number 19 is a diagram for a JC controller. In the picture I drew the Amazon wiring.

The picture under that is the Docooler wiring in the manual book that cam with it. I want to wire from the side panel preferably or the top panel

I need someone to only reference the wiring scheme of the Docooler I provided and show what wires from a panel on the danby connect to make a proper circuit that will regulate the compressor.

Thanks

[KillianBoy]

booksell,
Yeah, I know it is for a JC, as mentioned before just have to match which wire goes where in relation to yours, by the rudimentary way the Chinese translator made the schematic, I can figure the red wire goes to 4 (load) and black wire (power), my only problem is where the white wire goes. If you look at the connector panel for the docooler, look for the tab/connector that has a white wire and that should be the one, post picture of the docooler connector panel and someone can point you in the right connection.
Use long enough wires and you can put docooler anywhere you like, TO ME this is the simplest and easiest way to hook up the docooler to a Danby, the way the Amazon reviewer posted is unnecessary and complicated and if person cleared it with "supervision of family electricians", I wouldn't want them to do any job for me, a $100 job would cost $300 and be very complex and messy.
OK, post a picture of the connector panel, the primitive schematic provided isn't good enough to make any educated decision as to how to connect the white wire, I'm only guessing as to where to connect the red and black, a picture should confirm my guess, a picture will give members a better idea what to do, but for sure the way you want to do it is way too complicated and a little dangerous IMHO.
KB

[booksell]

Wiring Schematic

Docooler.jpg <----- Docooler wiring diagram

I'm working to cut the wires in the top panel? I can't seem to wire from the bottom side panel and that's a shame.

In reading information on this thread, looking at the JC schematic and color, my understanding is, going from the top control panel on the 3 wire plug that goes into the control board. 2 black wires will connect and wire into ports 1 and 3 (one wire is from the 3 wire plug, the red wire is capped on the plug and another black wire comes from the 2 wire plug - which has a black and red wire. Port 2 is where the "load" is on and this is where the red and brown (compressor fan wire) will connect. Port 4 will carry the white wire. This completes what wiring was being done for the JC. Please reference the diagram schematic and compare with what I have and information on the thread if you need to. This should be getting us pretty close.

By the way, the Docooler comes with no wires attached, but I'm going to use an extension cord with a white, green (for red), and black - this is what was being done with the JC.

If you can make sense of this, this is the rough idea of how to wire from the top panel on the Danby kegerator I have. I want and need to verify the connections before wires are cut. I feel I'm pretty close here.

KB[/QUOTE]
IMG_0083.jpg - Docooler controller

a419_dwg.jpg - JC controller wiring diagram

JCA419_To_Danby_Wi&amp;#.jpg

[KillianBoy]

booksell,
OK, you have 3 ways to go:
1-Wire exactly as shown from docooler (the one that shows to wall outlet, to freezer), then use post #100 to bypass the board, plug in as shown and everything should work

2-find connector panel wire exactly as shown from post #19, cut red, black and white, strip non-connector red, wire nut to new red, cut and strip black (both) wire nut new black, cut and strip (both) wire nut new white and connect as shown on post #19

3- your way docooler+pismo10 bypass

Right now 1 is the easiest and simplest and no wires from top panel, just cut black and red, wire together (this bypasses board), cap the leads at connector, then do as shown from docooler. Again not sure if the diagram that shows how use the 2 new plugs is the same as your picture, if you find it post picture, but that is the way I would go if I didn't want any wires running from top panel, if you have done the docooler 2 plug hook-up (just like the JC plug-in type set-up) you are halfway done.
Understand the pismo10 bypass is a specific bypass that keeps board working and uses a ready made plug-in type of ETC and has no wires running from board. If you don't mind the wires, simplest is #2 (less plugs and cheap), if you don't want the wires and have the plugs ready to modify or already have done the plug-in all you have to do is bypass board, board won't work but docooler will control the temperature. If I had known you didn't want wires to top panel and had this diagram to work off of, I wouldn't have suggested #2, if you have all already have done it, all you need to do is bypass board and not follow pismo10 bypass.
KB

[booksell]

Trying Way #2 top panel or #3 pismo10

Please see my responses in your quote with the *'s.

booksell,
OK, you have 3 ways to go:
1-Wire exactly as shown from docooler (the one that shows to wall outlet, to freezer), then use post #100 to bypass the board, plug in as shown and everything should work

*This example you refer to is from wall outlet to freezer IS the JC schematic, this is NOT Docooler. (The TOP most photo is the schematic of the Docooler wiring)

2-find connector panel wire exactly as shown from post #19, cut red, black and white, strip non-connector red, wire nut to new red, cut and strip black (both) wire nut new black, cut and strip (both) wire nut new white and connect as shown on post #19


*What are you referring to as the connector panel? I know of the side panel for the compressor access and the top panel for a control board there. Please identify the area as one of these or better explain it, because I don't understand when you just say connector panel wire? When you say Method 1, where is this starting from, please be specific? I would just help me focus on ways #2/3

3- your way docooler+pismo10 bypass

Right now 1 is the easiest and simplest and no wires from top panel, just cut black and red, wire together (this bypasses board), cap the leads at connector, then do as shown from docooler. Again not sure if the diagram that shows how use the 2 new plugs is the same as your picture, if you find it post picture, but that is the way I would go if I didn't want any wires running from top panel, if you have done the docooler 2 plug hook-up (just like the JC plug-in type set-up) you are halfway done.

*Thie pismo10 bypass when wired to Docooler would just stay on and the thermostat wouldn't regulate the compressor. I was already saying this in my earlier posting. I wired the pismo 10 to ports 1/3 on the Docooler, but the compressor wouldn't shut off at the temperatures. I want to still keep the Danby temperature reading alive and the internal fan, and the safety load for the compressor, if I wire through method 2, is this possible? I'm not understanding the previous thread info...

I have posted pics of the side panel, way #3 (pismo10) [ATTACH=CONFIG]2822[/ATTACH]marked by the specific arrow colored lines for each wire, that I want to better my understanding of the pismo 10 bypass withyou, as it just points out the red line. I just can't make this work out.

I have also posted reference to the top panel, way #2. [ATTACH=CONFIG]2823[/ATTACH]

Understand the pismo10 bypass is a specific bypass that keeps board working and uses a ready made plug-in type of ETC and has no wires running from board. If you don't mind the wires, simplest is #2 (less plugs and cheap), if you don't want the wires and have the plugs ready to modify or already have done the plug-in all you have to do is bypass board, board won't work but docooler will control the temperature. If I had known you didn't want wires to top panel and had this diagram to work off of, I wouldn't have suggested #2, if you have all already have done it, all you need to do is bypass board and not follow pismo10 bypass.
KB

[KillianBoy]

booksell,
Don't know why you are posting diagram that has no bearing on what you are trying to do, so your first diagram and picture are the only things docooler gave you?
If so the 2 wires that are in the picture go where?
KB

[booksell]

Followup

Yes, I think option 1 is easiest. What is the earlier Amazon instruction allows the Docooler to be wired with a male and female cord that can plug in to the Danby.

However, in doing this...

Will the fan inside still come on and will the Danby temperature reading in digital still come on? And then of course, I understand it will clip off when the Docooler goes out.

The introduction of the information I provided was there to render the connection - I was suggesting how to wire the Danby.

booksell,
Don't know why you are posting diagram that has no bearing on what you are trying to do, so your first diagram and picture are the only things docooler gave you?
If so the 2 wires that are in the picture go where?
KB

[KillianBoy]

booksell,
If you have only the 2 connections, can't do #2 until you find which one to connect the white and even connect the other 2, I assume 1 is occupied, then 2 is connected to red, even if 3 is occupied by a wire, and 4 is black, you need a connector for the common, are there any other connectors or again are those wires going back to ETC?
KB

[psychodad]

I just made a new thread out of this.

[booksell]

I actually meant Way #1 and that appears easiest, when you refer to it here.

"1-Wire exactly as shown from docooler (the one that shows to wall outlet, to freezer), then use post #100 to bypass the board, plug in as shown and everything should work"

This is with plugging the Danby to the extension cord that goes to the Docooler and plugging the male end into the wall. This bypasses the board as you indicate, but I was trying to ask, what won't function? Can you tell me?

I want the fan inside to work, and the blue digital temp. readout.

I provided the Docooler wiring diagram, Post #3 shows how I had the Docooler wired with a male/female extenion cord, please review it, I have it labeled. However, I do not know how to wire it appropriately for the pismo 10 directions here (it also references a JC in the pismo directions - if you look at my earlier posts I provided a JC wiring diagram (Post #7) to reference to the Docooler wiring diagram and make parallel understanding - if someone could correlate the wiring information in my earlier post POST #7-JC and Post #3 -Docooler and get back to me with how to properly do the Pismo 10 bypass, this I think would work best for me as it doesn't involve cutting any wires). I more specifically dont' understand how direction #5 works in the pismo method below to my Docooler schematic - which port on the Docooler controller do I wire into and how is the Docooler wired in the first place to get it like the JC mentioned by pismo that is being used in pismo's example. It's very confusing!

pismo10
Buy this

Amazon.com: Johnson Controls A19AAT-2C Freezer Temperature Controller: Kitchen & Dining

1) Remove the red positive/+ wire from the tab on the compressor.
2) Make another power cord, the small prong is the + wire you need.
3) Put a tab on the end of the new wire from the small prong
4) Plug the new tab onto the tab on the compressor
5) Plug the new power cord into the remote thermostat you bought and plug it in. Plug the Danby's original power cord into the same outlet/ext cord
6) You are done

You do not need to touch the control board
You do not need to cut any wires/anything
This bypasses all that
Quickly and easily totally reversible
The built in thermometer still works.

Enjoy

[KillianBoy]

booksell,
I will tell you the amount of wiring for the Amazon review+Pismo10 is ridiculous, Pismo10 modification will work and fairly easy to do but I find it complicated, you have to plug Danby AND ETC (connected to compressor) to wall socket with tons of extra wiring, understand you use the common from Danby, then compressor to ETC is the hot to make everything work.
My way would be #2, if you look at post #19 of Danby thread, cut 3 wires connect another 3 wires (one differently), connect correctly to ETC and your done, Danby display and fan should work, the only thing that won't work is the Danby thermostat. Get extension cord length you need, strip, mark or remember colors, hook everything up, it's easy and cheap
If you do it the Pismo10 way you have to figure out 100% how to hook up the 2 plugs to the docooler, you have to figure out how to translate the JC diagram to the docooler diagram. I tried reading the Amazon review and it gave me a headache, I can't understand it at all and I know about electrical connections.
I still don't know what goes where on your docooler, let me know where the 2 wires go in your picture, if it is a jumper (short wire) from 1 to 3, I have an idea how to hook things up via #2.
KB