Kegco K309B-2 Tower Chiller

[djdeity]

I recently purchased a Kegco K309B-2 Kegerator after a lot of research. The only item that remained as an unknown was a tower chiller. I previously had a Danby that I had to put together a combination tower chiller/cabin fan. Since the Danby had the CO2 tank on the outside, I was able to sneak the power cord to the tower chiller via the hole on the outside.

With the Kegco, the CO2 is on the inside. But so is the fan in the back left. I'm wondering if I can get into the fan in the top left, remove the guard in there, take out the fan, and patch in the tower chiller/cabin fan that I've made via Molex connections.

Does anyone have a schematic on the Kegco K309, or possibly some recommendations on how to avoid how much foam I get on the first and second draft pull off my keg? If this is a matter of changing the length of tubing going from keg to tap, I can do that as well. But my thought is that it's the length of tubing going up the tower that's the main problem.

I appreciate your input, as so far, this is a great kegerator.

[djc]

If the foam problem is only the first or second beer, and after that you are fine the problem is not the line length it is the tower not being cooled.

[KillianBoy]

djdeity,
Not sure if any of the Kegco owners are still around, the last one said "problem solved", normally 99.5% that say this never come back.
What djc says, if only first beer then tower "cooler" isn't working right. Tower cooler has 3 missions:

1) Cool shank

2) Cool beer line

3) circulate air

If beer isn't cooled in shank, CO2 bubble might form or beer warms to room temperature, both can cause foam, properly cooled beer in beer line hitting foam will cause more foam.
The main mission is to keep beer the same temperature from keg to tap, properly working tower cooler will chill shank and remainder should cool air enough to keep beer at 38 degrees (just make sure air returns back to unit).
It won't hurt to go longer line, most here will go 7+ feet to slow flow of beer, most will keep most of it in kegerator, just run length of tower, don't shove excess into tower ( have to say this because I am unsure of " it's the length of tubing going up the tower that's the main problem." means).
Just drill a hole in unit (anywhere door side of bottom back wall should be fine) and not worry about rewiring or using molex, try not to over-think it, AC adapter, fan, box and hole, should be fine.
KB

[djdeity]

I'm with you on the need for a tower chiller. As I mentioned in my original post, I have one that I built for my first kegerator, a Danby. I used a bunch of Molex connectors to build a combination tower chiller and cabin fan. What I'm wondering is if I can wire my chiller/fan combo in to where the fan is placed in the back top left of the Kegco. That's why I was wondering if anyone had the schematics for my kegerator to see if this is feasible or not. If I can't wire the chiller/fan through there, then I've got another problem as to how to provide power to it.

[prhiii]

Curious if you found a good place to drill a hole on the Kegco. I need to do the same and cannot locate a diagram.