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Help with Remote Draw system - Foam/Off-Flavors

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  • Help with Remote Draw system - Foam/Off-Flavors

    Hi All,
    First off, thanks for everyone's contribution to this forum as I've gleaned a tremendous amount of information over the past few months with researching the build of my kegerator and troubleshooting the initial issues I had. Now on to the show...

    After a few months of trying to dial-in my system, I'm still wondering if I have some fundamental design flaws with my setup. In short, I have a continuous issue with foamy beers and also some off-flavors.

    To detail my setup:
    - I have a full-sized fridge in the basement keeping the kegs at a chilly 36-38 degrees.
    - 2 beer lines run up 10 feet to the floor above and connect to a 5" shank with taps that come directly out of the wall. (Aesthetically, it looks awesome.)
    - The lines are kept cold with a pond pump in the freezer continuously circulating 4 gallons of RV antifreeze through a lines that are coupled with the beer lines and insulated with high grade pipe insulation. (similar concept to a trunk line)
    - My beer pours at 36-38 degrees after sitting overnight, so I'm fairly certain my issue is not related to temperature.
    - I have 20' of beer line of which 7' is 1/4" and 13' is 3/8. I think this is part of my problem... My taps/shanks are connected to the 1/4" tubing and the keg is connected to the 3/8". So the beer is moving from a larger diameter tube, through a splice and then to the smaller 1/4" tubing from keg to taps.
    - Also, as part of the install of the lines, I made a slight mistake and the lines go UP from the tap about 1-2 feet before going back down to the fridge. I read somewhere that the beer line must go directly down or else foam will form in air pockets above the taps. I can change this but will take some effort and rework.

    The problem:
    - It seems I have to keep my regulator at about 16 PSI in order to keep enough pressure at the taps to keep the beer from dropping back down the lines wh, which eventually over carbonates my beer in the keg.
    - If I go below the 16 PSI, the beer is super foamy and I think it's because the beer starts to drop back down the line due to lack of PSI to keep the beer pushed against the closed tap.
    - Lastly, I'm getting some off-flavors in the beer after it's been sitting over night - the second pour is usually fine. I'm certain my lines are clean as I use PBW and StarSan after each keg swap and still have those flavors.

    The questions:
    - Would going to a single 3/8" line without a splice and without going from larger diameter to smaller tubing solve the problem?
    - Do I need more than 20' of line? (Seems the more I read about sizing beer line, restriction, gravitational affect, etc, the less I know what to do.)
    - Could the 1-2' rise in the line as it leaves the tap cause foaming issues?
    - Any suggestions on how I can improve the setup?
    - Any thoughts on what could be contributing to the off-flavors?

    Thanks for all your help!,
    - Rob
    Last edited by robbytnyc; 04-02-2014, 12:29 PM.

  • #2
    I'm no long draw expert but I'd say pressure to high..And would of done 5/16 trunk line with a 3/16" choke at faucet..
    What I got:
    Beverage Air #BM23
    with a "Sexy" Double Faucet Tower and Celli Eurpean Faucets
    -MM Premium Double Guage Primary Regulator
    -MM Premium 2 Product Secondary Regulator
    -MM S/S Keg Couplers
    YouTube video of the goods

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the reply PointPleasantNJBeerguy. Can you help me understand why going from the 5/16 -> 3/16 is important? Is the 3/16" choke point needed with a 1/4" Shank? As I understand it, it would be beer flowing from 5/16 tubing -> 3/16" Tubing -> 1/4" Shank -> Faucet.

      Lastly, is there any magical number for how long the 3/16" tubing should be?

      Thanks again!

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm gonna hope someone comes along with a better explanation of this for you.Like I said I'm not to up on the long draw system stuff.
        What I got:
        Beverage Air #BM23
        with a "Sexy" Double Faucet Tower and Celli Eurpean Faucets
        -MM Premium Double Guage Primary Regulator
        -MM Premium 2 Product Secondary Regulator
        -MM S/S Keg Couplers
        YouTube video of the goods

        Comment


        • #5
          Have some questions for you.
          1. What type of line are you using? Polyethylene, barrier (polyethylene with nylon lining), vinyl (soft line)
          2. What type of gas are you using?

          Based on your pressure of 16 psig, I'm assuming you have all vinyl lines. By my calculations, with the length of line and size, plus gravity your restriction value is right on for 16 psig, if using vinyl.

          Problem: 16 psig is too high to properly keep standard beers for any length of time. As you stated, it will over carbonate your beer keg. With your restriction value of 16, anything below 16 will cause break out of the CO2 as foam.

          Solutions:
          a. Leave beer lines as they are and buy 70% CO2/30% N2 from your local restaurant gas supplier.
          b. Rework your beer lines with barrier tubing and use CO2 at 10.5 psig.

          Cheers

          Dennis
          The Draft Doctor

          Comment


          • #6
            Dennis - this is great info. Yes, I'm using vinyl tubing and standard co2 gas. It sounds like your recommendation is spot-on. I'd prefer to rework the lines using barrier tubing as it's much easier for me to get standard CO2 vs mix. If I go with barrier, what diameter and length do you recommend? After exhaustive research, I can't seem to come to a consistent number regarding tube length and diameter. If you have a reliable formula, I'd love to know what it is.

            Thanks again!
            - Rob

            Comment


            • #7
              Rob,
              As vinyl is probably easier to obtain, I've reworked my math and have a new set up for you.

              Target is 12 psig.

              3/8 id vinyl = .2 pounds per foot and 1/4 id vinyl = .85 per foot restriction values. Gravity is .5 pounds per foot of rise.

              Try 19.5 ' of 3/8 id vinyl and 9" of 1/4 id vinyl and you should be right at 12 psig for CO2.

              This way you can reuse the unions you already have, etc.

              Good luck.
              Last edited by DCullender; 04-04-2014, 08:02 AM. Reason: type o's

              Comment


              • #8
                Dennis,
                A few more follow up questions and you'll be done with me. Thanks for your input!

                After researching the Barrier tubing, I actually prefer this option because my lines run through a wall and are difficult to access and replace. It would seem the barrier tubing has better longevity over the vinyl. Is this true?

                If I go with the barrier tubing connected to the shanks, spliced with vinyl for connecting to the keg coupler, my math shows the following:
                - 13 ft of 1/4 Barrier at .3 resistance/ft
                - 3 ft of 1/4 Vinyl at .2 resistance/ft
                - 12 psig

                Does this jive with your numbers?

                Also, do you have an opinion on the Perlick Flow Control taps? It would seem some of these variances could be managed directly at the tap over the lines but I'm not sure if it's that simple.

                Again, your input is greatly appreciated!
                - Rob

                Comment


                • #9
                  Rob,

                  1/4 vinyl is .85.

                  Try using 5/16" id barrier tubing and 3/16" id vinyl

                  19' of 5/16" id barrier @.1 = 1.9
                  10 inches 3/16" id vinyl @ 3 per ft = 2.5
                  Total 4.4

                  Gravity = 7.5
                  Lines = 4.4
                  total: 11.9 pounds

                  Flow control faucets are good for increasing restriction to allow for slower pours or for beers which need a higher pressure than normal. However, your system must be balanced to make use of them properly.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sounds great Draft Doctor. I'll put your plan to action and let you know how it goes. If anything, I now can see how you are coming up with the ideal lengths, diameters and psig settings.

                    Thanks again!
                    - Rob

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by DCullender View Post
                      Rob,

                      Try using 5/16" id barrier tubing and 3/16" id vinyl

                      19' of 5/16" id barrier @.1 = 1.9
                      10 inches 3/16" id vinyl @ 3 per ft = 2.5
                      Total 4.4
                      I'm glad he came back with the same sizes I stated...Of course at a better explanation.
                      What I got:
                      Beverage Air #BM23
                      with a "Sexy" Double Faucet Tower and Celli Eurpean Faucets
                      -MM Premium Double Guage Primary Regulator
                      -MM Premium 2 Product Secondary Regulator
                      -MM S/S Keg Couplers
                      YouTube video of the goods

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have a very similar sounding setup. I have gotten mine to work pretty well. No foam issues as of lately... I used 5/16" brewmaster 2 line from micromatic spliced to 3/16 line from micromatic as well. I have a home made trunk line with copper pipe as the coolant lines and the coolant in a bucket on the freezer side of my side by side fridge. One of the things that I think really helped my initial foam issues was I added a coolant line of all tygon up to a small diameter copper pipe that I bent around the shanks in order to create a cooler for the shanks. It works pretty well and keeps the faucets cold to the touch. Do you have anything keeping your shanks cold?!

                        Also you mentioned that your lines have a dip in them. Mine used to as well. It appeared to help when I straightened them so they were always rising vertically. That way any bubbles that formed didn't cause a burst of foam in the middle of the pour causing more foam

                        (Ps I am no pro... I just have spent some time tinkering with my own setup and have gotten it to work pretty well)

                        Comment

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