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Drilling thru Northern Popcorn Frosty Keg

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  • Drilling thru Northern Popcorn Frosty Keg

    Has anyone ever drilled through the wall of a Great Northern Frosty Keg wall to make modifications? Wondering where the safe zone on mine is to drill a 1" hole to run my CO2 line through?

  • #2
    I would say you would be safe out either side since those units use a rear wall cold plate.Just go from the inside out and start with a smaller pilot hole. So you dont crack the plastic.
    What I got:
    Beverage Air #BM23
    with a "Sexy" Double Faucet Tower and Celli Eurpean Faucets
    -MM Premium Double Guage Primary Regulator
    -MM Premium 2 Product Secondary Regulator
    -MM S/S Keg Couplers
    YouTube video of the goods

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    • #3
      bjlasota,
      I kinda answered this question in your first post, cold plates are basically the same as every other cold plate cooler, as PointPleasantNJBeerguy says sides should be fine, backs are iffy. You HAVE to have someone spot your drilling ANYWHERE IN THE BACK, drilling in back is DANGEROUS, over drilling and not checking would result in PERMANENT damage.
      Doing it the way you say in previous post is "iffy", ANY additional connection MIGHT cause leaks (which is a serious problem), drilling a hole in side the same size as gas line is best way to go, no leaks, no problem.
      KB

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      • #4
        I contacted the maker and they say there are coils in the sides. They said the safe location is in the very top right corner. Now I put my new tank in there and it actually fits. So maybe no drilling at all. BUT, the tank would heave to rest against the rear cooling plate, as in touching it, and I won't be able to get the old tanks rubber secure band around it. So is it ok to have the co2 bottle physically resting against the cooling plates?

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        • #5
          bjlasota,
          I think you asked the wrong question, there might be a some coils in the side BEHIND plate but there shouldn't be any coils on the door side of plate, should have asked if you could drill in sides on door side of plate, again if afraid try corn starch test in area you want to drill.
          You could put the rubber between tank and plate and use string to secure rubber to tank (and unit).
          I think you are the only member to post that he has a Great Northern kegerator, so you are in untested waters.
          KB

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          • #6
            Oooo, cutting the connections on that rubber thing would probably be a good idea. I could glue it to the tank to protect it as it rests against the plate. It's more like it would be protecting the plate. I'm grabbing a keg this weekend, so I think I'll see how it works with the tank inside. If I have issues, I'll go back to drilling.

            When I talked to GN, they said there's coils running through both sides of the fridge. There's a small location next to the back plate inside that I can drill through. The picture below shows a few things. The back plate, and #1 is where GN suggested drilling a hole. They said that both the left and right sides have coils running through them. Where they told me I should drill looks similar to a lot of ready made kegerators that already have a rear hole for the gas line. This location looks typical of where that spot usually is. The doors hinge is on the right side of the picture. Thoughts?

            IMG_2321.jpg

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            • #7
              bjlasota,
              I feel 1 and 4 are the riskier places. You have to understand where everything is, best thing to do is open the back up and look. Cold plate is connected to compressor, which is where the hump the CO2 tank sits on, normally there are 2 places the cold plate connections run through rear, both should run to compressor (or other parts). Since both are connected, just follow all 1 copper tube out and follow, it should get to compressor (or other part), follow where it comes out, it should get to compressor (or other part), then back to cold plate. Since it is a closed system there should not be any other cooling parts the run anywhere else.
              Logically speaking if the hump is compressor, cold plate sits behind plate, cooling lines shouldn't be anywhere on the door side of the compressor. If they say there might be lines there I'd love to sit and have a drink with the idiot that built it that way. Even if they say it is fine at "1", I would do as PointPleasantNJBeerguy says drill a small pilot hole. But it is best to look behind where you will drill just to be sure.
              Understand most guys at these oddball companies ABSOLUTELY have NO idea on how to get a kegerator running right or even how they are built. They say set PSI at 8 (which is wrong) and unit will get beer down to 35 degrees (which is also wrong). And worst yet most think the a fan is unnecessary, which is the most important part a stock unit needs to pour good beer.
              KB
              Last edited by KillianBoy; 02-25-2014, 04:33 PM.

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              • #8
                Here's what I have. So you're thinking the safest location should be the side of the fridge that the hinge is currently on? Any thoughts on the bottom next to the drainage hole? It would still be above the drain pan and once I have the hose through, I plan on sealing it, so any water would still go out the drain hole. Also, when I look closely at the top right inside, I see the line coming out of the cooling plate, then it goes down to the bottom and out the hump. It doesn't appear there's anything in that area where my #1 spot was.
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  bjlasota,
                  Your #1 looks good, you look at your 1st picture, you see the nut, this is the 1st connection to cold plate, picture #4 follow copper up, this should be the 2nd connection, other than the cold plate, there should not be anything else sensitive that you can harm.
                  By looking at the other pictures, a place a little below your #4 might be fine, look at picture #3, the center of the flash reflection should be fine. Honestly any where near shelf should be good, as long as you drill a small pilot hole. When you see the metal plate, there should be insulation behind it and plastic behind that (shelf). So you can find a place anywhere on the shelf, mark and measure, go in back and measure and mark. If you did it right it should be in the same place, drill small pilot hole, if good, drill the gas line hole. There shouldn't be any lines in shelf.
                  KB
                  I looked at the pictures again, bunch of lines looks like running through top of shelf (most look like they go straight up, but if you are not certain don't drill), again right where the reflection is looks good. Just look at things logically, follow lines, where they go, most will follow a straight line. When you find a place, just post back and ask membership.
                  It doesn't matter which side hinge is on, just which side the thermostat is on or light?? (again not sure what unit has). Side that has thermostat will have electrical lines, if you can see them then fine but if runs under plastic, beware.
                  Last edited by KillianBoy; 02-26-2014, 04:13 PM.

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                  • #10
                    The thermostat is on the right side of the fridge and from what I can see, all the lines run outside of the plastic. There may be something hidden though under it. I think I'm going to drill a pilot on the upper right back wall and see what I can find.

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                    • #11
                      bjlasota,
                      Remember to drill far from the cold plate, all the ribs you can see holds the coolant, if nicked or cut into coolant will leak out and once you damage the plate, it is pretty much un-fixable.
                      KB

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