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**justgio** · 01-20-2014, 10:01 AM

I'm fluctuating inside temp(factory probe) at 32 F up to 46-48 at times. Depending.

**djc** · 01-20-2014, 10:58 AM

Air temp doesn't matter so much, and it will fluctuate depending on your cut ins and cut outs. What matters is the resultant beer temp. I think most who use controllers have a 5 to 8 degree range. Put a 5 gallon bucket in there and monitor the temp of that.
The fan you picked is way over kill, both in physical size and CFM. Your box is probably around 5 cubic feet, so you will be flipping the volume 20x a minute? It is going to be like a hurrincane in there and doesn't need to be. The tower cooler is a bit over thought as well, there is no need to build a refigeration loop for short draw, even the most expensive commercial units use forced air to the shanks.

**KillianBoy** · 01-20-2014, 03:14 PM

justgio,
I deleted your other post, not sure why it was moderated but since it was the same as this I got rid of it.
I agree with djc, you are over-thinking everything, the cooling ability of the Danby is limited, using it to cool glycol to under 35 degrees is stretching the Danby, maybe a keezer might work better with glycol, the main thing you need to cool with a tower cooler is the shank, secondary is the beer in line.
The main thing I kinda disagree with is having a defrost cycle/mode. All you will have is that every 3rd or 4th cycle the unit will stay off for an extended period of time, which means the interior of the unit will be 40+ for a long while, which means beer line, beer in beer line, air with be 40+ degrees, so if drinking beer, the beer will be a little warm on every delayed pour (if defrost running), if you drink 1 beer, it will be warm and wait 15 minutes and it will be warm, till compressor kicks out of defrost, I honestly don't think I can deal with warm (and maybe foamy) beer on every pour. For a fermenter, it might be fine, kegerator, probably not. Most members don't want the defrost running when pouring beer which happens nearly every time you drink beer because of a guy named Murphy.
If it were me, I save the ETC you bought for fermenting, get a JC or Ranco and follow what guys say regarding Danby, ETC should show sensor temperature, so don't think you need the Danby display, bypass, ETC and (air) tower cooler, you should be fine.
KB

**justgio** · 01-21-2014, 08:12 PM

I def appreciate the input; so the temp controller seems to connect the same as an STC1000 i like to utilize the one I have since I can probe 2 diff positions and it will show in Fahrenheit.
Can I eliminate the defrost cycle? And in turn do I simply follow the same setup for the STC1000 mod here on the forum?

**KillianBoy** · 01-22-2014, 05:34 AM

justgio,
There is a way to disable the defrost cycle, turn off unit before you drink beer (this throws off the defrost cycle, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours before serving beer), again just save it for fermenting and pick up one without defrost cycle.
You know it is science but not rocket science, don't know why you need to monitor or control 2 zones in unit, the only thing that is important is beer temperature, that's it.
KB

**justgio** · 01-22-2014, 09:24 AM

I just purchased this one so picking up another model is not an option at this time, can the defrost be disconnected as appears it is more of a hinderance? I'd rather not have to plug and unplug if I don't have to.

**KillianBoy** · 01-22-2014, 03:29 PM

justgio,
The ETC will defeat the auto defrost in Danby, you have to disable the ETC auto defrost, you have the documentation and manuals, don't think anyone here has used that particular ETC.
Every time the ETC turns Danby off it resets the defrost cycle, but by what you posted the ETC has its own defrost and you have to figure out how that works and how to disable.
Still don't understand why you need to monitor and change temperature in 2 zones, if inside and tower, tower will continually warm, compressor will kick on when temperature goes above your set point for tower regardless of temperature inside unit, which will lead to really cold or frozen beer. After a few kegs you might find a happy balance of set point, differential and zone temperature, but why, the main thing in tower you need to keep cold is the shank, secondary is beer line. Monitoring and controlling temperature in tower is useless in keeping beer at 38 degrees, unless you plan on putting sensor on shank or in glycol.
Again what you are trying to do is rocket science where science is just needed, copper worm will cool tower, yes but you really don't want to cool tower, just shank and beer line. Small fan, small box and hose with adjustable power supply is sufficient, you don't need glycol, if you do use glycol, it needs to be next to beer line to work.
If you have 120MM, just put 4 screws as a stand, point up and run 3-4.5 volts, that should be sufficient for interior air circulation for now, you don't need a box or anything else. Money saved from not buying copper worm, glycol system and box can go to new ETC and air driven tower cooler.
KB
The only reference to STC1000 is from a member that hasn't logged in for 2 years, not sure if he ever got it working right, the reply should work in hooking up but again you are in uncharted territory and really over-thinking this as I presented before in forum, the best was is K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple, S*****), simple is better, complicated might look and seem better but if it takes you 5 kegs to get working right and several months, is it worth it?

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