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  1. #1
    Ghaleon is offline New Member
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    Default Modify Nostalgia Kegerator for Corney Keg

    Hello All,

    This is my first post, thank you in advance for this great resource. I recently purchased this kegerator from Nostalgia Electrics. I also purchased a pin-lock cornelius keg.

    http://www.amazon.com/Nostalgia-Electrics-KRS2100-Kegorator-Fridge/dp/B000HJVYDQ

    When they arrived I was disappointed to find that the connectors that came with the kegerator are not compatible with the keg that I ordered. I called Nostalgia Electrics to ask for guidance and they told me that they do not support modifying their product but directed me to this site.

    This is my first attempt at using a kegerator, so I apologize for my limited vocabulary. I have attached a picture of my current setup.

    What do I need to do to use my new kegerator with a corney keg? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

    Kegerator.jpg

  2. #2
    djc
    djc is offline Super Member
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    The kegerator is set up for commercial beer using a sankey coupler, you need to cut the end off of the line at the coupler (assuming it has a crimped on end) and attach it to the ball lock coupler. Same for the CO2 line. You should put hose clamps on as well. I assume your goal is to home brew?

    BTW it would appear as if you have the CO2 going into the beer outlet on the coupler. CO2 goes into the side.
    Last edited by djc; 01-07-2013 at 11:56 AM.
    What I have: Haier two tap, 525 faucets, tower cooler, 10' lines
    What's on tap: Harpoon The Long Thaw
    The Summary: (4) Yuengling, (3) Yuengling Porter, (1) Yuengling Black & Tan, (5) Bud Light Lime, (1) Keegans Mother’s Milk, (5) Blue Moon, (3) Landshark, (1) Widmer Drifter, (1)Magic Hat #9, (1) Abita Turbodog, (3) Sierra Nevada Ruthless Rye (2) Harpoon Summer, (1) Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, (3) DFH 60, (1) DFH Festina Peche,(1) Two Roads Road 2 Ruin, (1) Stone IPA

  3. #3
    Ghaleon is offline New Member
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    Thanks for your reply. Yes, I will be using this for homebrew, which I have been making for the last year and a half.

    So I will cut off the coupler that came with the kegerator, and attach that plastic tube to the CO2-in coupler on the corney keg. I will then cut off the screw connector on the tube that runs from the tower and connect it directly to the beer-out coupler on the corney keg. The coupler that came with the kegerator and the screw connector on the tube that comes from the tower can be discarded. Is this correct?

    Thanks for your help.

  4. #4
    djc
    djc is offline Super Member
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    I'd save the coupler and the washers, you never know when you may want to put commercial beer in there (all it will take is a tail piece and a hose clamp). You are correct on the cuts and reconnects. If you have trouble with getting the hoses over the barbs you can put them in hot water for a minute and they will get more flexible.
    What I have: Haier two tap, 525 faucets, tower cooler, 10' lines
    What's on tap: Harpoon The Long Thaw
    The Summary: (4) Yuengling, (3) Yuengling Porter, (1) Yuengling Black & Tan, (5) Bud Light Lime, (1) Keegans Mother’s Milk, (5) Blue Moon, (3) Landshark, (1) Widmer Drifter, (1)Magic Hat #9, (1) Abita Turbodog, (3) Sierra Nevada Ruthless Rye (2) Harpoon Summer, (1) Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, (3) DFH 60, (1) DFH Festina Peche,(1) Two Roads Road 2 Ruin, (1) Stone IPA

  5. #5
    pvs6 is offline Super Member
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    As djc said don't throw away the coupler. If your sure you will never need it then sell it on Ebay or Craigslist.

  6. #6
    KillianBoy is offline Super Moderator
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    Ghaleon,
    Yup, cut clean and store for future use, gas line can be reused, I also would replace the beer line with 7+ feet, you will have to anyway, and make sure the lines go to the right one on Corny.
    KB

  7. #7
    Ghaleon is offline New Member
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    Default

    Thank you everyone. Why the long beer line?

  8. #8
    KillianBoy is offline Super Moderator
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    Ghaleon,
    Longer beer line will slow the flow and not create as much foam, with commercial kegs, longer lines are pretty much required, but with homebrew, you might get away with 5 feet. Since you are cutting off one side, doing the shank side isn't hard. IF you have problems with foam with your homebrew, with the stock line, that would be the first thing I would do to stop foam. Right now, you can stay with 5 feet, but you have get some sort of air circulation in unit, either fan or tower cooler would help circulate air.
    KB

  9. #9
    Ghaleon is offline New Member
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    I see, thanks. I will buy a 7 ft beer line. Another issue that I have noticed is that the CO2 line is too narrow to fit the corney coupler and the other end requires a fly screw to connect to the C02 tank (see pic). It looks like this will be a little more complicated to replace. Can someone tell me what I'll need to replace this?

    Thanks again!

    tubes.jpg.

  10. #10
    pvs6 is offline Super Member
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    Submersing the tip of the hose in boiling water for 20 seconds will allow for much more flexibility and ease of getting it over the fitting. Pictures aren't all ways worth a 1,000 but from yours it looks like hose and barb share the same outside Dia. and even swelling the hose in hot water may not work. Can you post the Dia. of this barb. There are splice pieces for 2 different size lines, in the worst case you would splice an inch or two of bigger line to fit the barb.

  11. #11
    KillianBoy is offline Super Moderator
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    Ghaleon,
    If you can't get it to fit, you probably could use the old beer line, but best to order the red line when you get the new beer line (I think 3/8 is the norm).
    To cut off the shank/faucet and the part from regulator, just make a shallow cut in line same direction as line, take a flat head screwdriver and slowly wedge cut wider, eventually it should be loose enough to take it off the barb. It's fairly simply if you need more help or better directions, post back.
    KB

  12. #12
    vtmflynn is offline New Member
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    So, I have the same EXACT issue you had Ghaleon, what did you end up doing to get your air tubing to work?

  13. #13
    KillianBoy is offline Super Moderator
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    vtmflynn,
    I'm not sure if you'll get an answer, member hasn't logged in almost 2 months. What exactly are you trying to do and what problems are you having with the CO2 line and is it a NE kegerator? NE has a different hook up to regulator from norm, to cut off line basically what I said above, but may have forgotten about the crimp.
    KB
    Last edited by KillianBoy; 02-27-2013 at 09:39 PM.

  14. #14
    vtmflynn is offline New Member
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    Thanks for the help! I have a Nostalgia Electrics kegerator. I have a pin lock corny keg and want to convert the kegerator to handle both sanke and corny connections. I bought a sanke tap conversion kit which appears to accept 5/16" for the gas line and 1/4" for the liquid line. I can probably muddle through assembling the liquid line without an issue. It's the gas line that I'm struggling with.

    I have two issues:
    1) the actual air line that came with the kegerator is really narrow. My guess is 1/8" inside diameter, haven't cut and measured yet.
    2) even if I got a wider air line (i.e. 5/16") to fit the gas connect on the keg, I'm not sure how to connect the other end to the regulator that came with the keg. As you mentioned, the hook up is different from the normal. I've included some pix to help explain both issues:

    1) Air to keg connection (along with a side by side compare of tube width to connection)
    Photo3_KegConnectWithAirTube.jpgPhoto4_KegConnectWithAirTubeCompare.jpg
    Question: You still think I could heat up and expand the tube enough to fit over the keg connect barb? Or do you think I definitely need a wider line? Guess I could try it and see, but didn't want to start cutting stuff if there was a known solution out there.

    2a) Regulator connect next to air tube
    Photo2_RegulatorWithAirTube.jpg
    2b) Closer look at the regulator connect
    Photo1_RegulatorOutput.jpg
    Comment/Question: that male end shown above does not unscrew, I've tried. Also, it measures 3/8" inside diameter and 1/2" outside diameter. Since I'm not able to remove that connector, I was considering finding a female hose barb at HD/Lowes that I could screw onto that output and then connect a 5/16" air line to it. And I'm assuming I would need an o-ring/gasket as well in that connection. What do you think?

    Hope this helps explain what I'm dealing with. I'm sure I'm making this too complicated but when I saw this thread, I was curious to know the outcome. Whatever info you can provide is appreciated.

  15. #15
    KillianBoy is offline Super Moderator
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    vtmflynn,
    Double check all of your ID of hoses and estimated of the barbs, the ID of the gas line should be 3/16 or larger (it may look small because the OD is small). If smaller than 3/16, you will have problems. If pin lock side is 1/4 and ID of hose is smaller than 3/16, it will never work, if 3/16 you can try and stick end of hose is boiling water for several minutes, then try and fit over barb. If it still won't fit there are several options:
    1) If it were me I would just buy a new regulator, NE regulators have been known to be twitchy, you eventually will have to replace anyway.

    2) You could splice the NE hose to a 1/4 or 5/16, then the new line to pin lock

    3) You could try and remove the connector from hose, it will be tricky since it is probably a crimp clamp and have one shot, otherwise it will be ruined. Use a dremel saw to cut crimp (you could also use a diagonal cutter), dremel will be faster but you need to be careful and cut edge (hose side), once cut you can use a flat screwdriver and pliers to slowly peel it way from the connector. Once pressure of crimp is relieved, it should pull off connector easily.
    Again double check all the sizes and see if it will work, if as you say 1/8, connector barb will be too small for any hose you replace with, at 3/16 you might have a chance to get things to fit.
    As to fitting system to take corny and sankey, look into the quick disconnects.
    KB
    Last edited by KillianBoy; 02-28-2013 at 02:29 AM.

  16. #16
    vtmflynn is offline New Member
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    KB,
    Thanks for the quick response. I've double-checked the IDs. The gas line appears to be 3/16" and the pin lock connector is 1/4". That said, I set the line in boiling water for 20 min or so and it was still pretty rigid after all that time. I was not able to get it over the pin lock connector.

    I'd heard about NE regulators being suspect, so upgrading is definitely in the plans (sooner or later). I'm intrigued by the splicing idea and will probably research that next. Any recommendations/instructions on the best way to do that is appreciated.

    Regarding the 3rd option, I think I'm following you. You're saying to do that in order to replace the existing line with a larger line, but still using the existing regulator connector, correct? Not sure I understand why I'd only get one shot. Is that because there's a risk of damaging the connector with the saw, making it incapable of keeping an airtight seal?

    Thanks again for the help!

  17. #17
    KillianBoy is offline Super Moderator
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    vtmflynn,
    Honestly, getting a new regulator will solve all your problems, the next solution is a splice, MM sells the following (just highlight and right click and open link)
    http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/fittings-pid-SSS-BE.html
    This a 1 step change, I have a feeling since the line won't fit over the barb on pin lock is a 5/16 bard (which is norm), so basically you have a 2 step change, so you have to use the 3/16 end on the old gas line, then use 1/4 line on the other end, you probably have to stick in boiling water to fit over pin lock connector but it should work. There is a 2 step change splice, but unless you know for certain the barb size it would be safer to get the 1/4 gas line and the 1 step splice.
    Yeah, any damage to any gas part can cause problems, just like any addition or change in line can cause problems, I have always advocated the KISS principle, simplest and least problematic is buy a new regulator. With changing out the connector, you might have same problem with size, when off, I would use 1/4 line, it might be large for 3/16 barb, just make sure you have a clamp over barb, again KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid), I'd go with the simplest solution.
    KB
    Last edited by KillianBoy; 02-28-2013 at 11:24 PM.

  18. #18
    vtmflynn is offline New Member
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    Thanks KB! Just to follow up, I went ahead and did the KISS approach. More upfront money than I was hoping for at this point, but seemed the best solution, over the splicing or cutting options. The NE kegerator was a gift, so these are good problems to have. Guess I'll have to wait another few days to keg my bourbon porter. Thanks again for the detailed and quick responses.

  19. #19
    pvpeacock is offline New Member
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    I'm having the same problem. The gas line that comes with the NE is really, really small. It is smaller than any other tubing I have seen used with beer products. I believe that the regulator outlet is 1/4", so I am thinking about buying a 1/4" swivel nut connector to use regular sized tubing to my ball keg gas in connection. I have already ordered the swivel nut and will let you know if it works out.

  20. #20
    THE ICEMAN's Avatar
    THE ICEMAN is offline Super Moderator
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    Sorry, thread closed due to excessive spamming.

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