Trouble in Paradise-leaking faucet

[Marc]

I have a dual tap setup (two faucets in one tower).

The one on the left leaks inside the tower . I discovered it when I tapped a dark stout, and had to disassemble everything to clean up the mess. Calling the company who sold me the tower (sadly out of warantee), they suggested some kind of epoxy to seal the areas that were leaking.

That worked for one keg. When I removed the faucet to clean it, it must have twisted enough internally to break the seal, and allow the faucet backing to leak like before.

So, before I plunk down too much money on a tower replacement, does anyone know where I can find the tool that will allow me to unscrew the nut that holds the faucet to the tower, and then screw a new one on? It's such a tight fit inside that tower that no one I know has any tool that will fit sufficiently.

If I can find the tool, I'll chip out the epoxy and replace the faucet, which will be a lot less hassle than buying a whole new tower and having to replace that. Otherwise, I'll need to go the replacement route, and I'm not looking forward to that.

Anyone know anything about this? Or, can anyone come up with an alternative for me?

Thanks!

Marc

[beerboy52]

They make a wrench that is designed to fit inside the towers, but I find them to be unwieldy and cumbersome. Use a flat bladed screwdriver and a hammer and tap it backwards. Unscrew the nut and pull the shank out the front of the tower. Disconnect the line and then your shank can be repaired or replaced. I would find a bent tube shank designed for towers and use it. DO NOT use one with a compression fitting. Sooner or later I guarantee you that it will leak. Peace of mind is worth a lot to me.
Make sure that when you replace the shank that you have a couple of clamps available because invariably you'll put the washer on backwards or such.

[darck1]

Originally Posted by beerboy52

They make a wrench that is designed to fit inside the towers, but I find them to be unwieldy and cumbersome. Use a flat bladed screwdriver and a hammer and tap it backwards. Unscrew the nut and pull the shank out the front of the tower. Disconnect the line and then your shank can be repaired or replaced. I would find a bent tube shank designed for towers and use it. DO NOT use one with a compression fitting. Sooner or later I guarantee you that it will leak. Peace of mind is worth a lot to me.
Make sure that when you replace the shank that you have a couple of clamps available because invariably you'll put the washer on backwards or such.

"Unwieldy and cumbersome" is right! I cut a big divot in my hand trying to get one of those faucets off. I eventually just gave up. I didn't use the "hammer and screwdriver" method.

[beerboy52]

The screwdriver and hammer approach does seem a bit harsh, but it does work and you don't have to buy a new tool!

[Marc]

Harsh is that I now have to either (a) figure out how to chip off the epoxy without destroying the good faucet, or (b) try to get them both out and replace them.

Any hints as to which of these would be best? http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...s-cid-338.html

...and, if I weren't brave enough to whack a screwdriver, which style of these is easiest to use? http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...s-cid-438.html

Thanks!

Marc

[darck1]

Originally Posted by Marc

Harsh is that I now have to either (a) figure out how to chip off the epoxy without destroying the good faucet, or (b) try to get them both out and replace them.

Any hints as to which of these would be best? http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...s-cid-338.html

...and, if I weren't brave enough to whack a screwdriver, which style of these is easiest to use? http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...s-cid-438.html

Thanks!

Marc

I've never actually done it... but from my woes with a normal wrench I'd say this one... http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...-pid-D8WP.html

or this one

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...d-D8ES-CB.html

The latter is probably better but JEEZ it's pricey.