Danby Kegerator Improvements

[redhead]

So, after all the mods I did, I was still getting foam and lost a lot of Co2. I decided to replace the copuler and the regulator, both with micromatic products. As well, I have put in 6.5 feet of 3/16 and am running the Coors Light at 15psi and have had no issues at all since.
Since I replaced both items at once, I can not pinpoint the issue, but I think the fault laid at the coupler.
All in all, Im happy that after a month, I have a full keg and am not getting foam. Thanks to all for the help and ideas.
Red~

[monkey710]

Psychodad-

In your original post you said you were unsure if you would short cycle the compressor due to the low differential....have you had any problems? Do you do what you said and just defrost it when you empty a keg?

[psychodad]

There have been no short cycing issues at all. I defrost when I clean lines by unplugging the unit and letting it sit while I let the Clean flo work for about 15 minutes.

[monkey710]

So I finally started my mods today...minor issues...bought wrong kind of wire for the blower...don't think it makes much difference but since I have to get new shrink wrap, might as well get the right wire (if the blower is 115V, wires are rated to 600V, would if matter if I extended them with 300V rated wire?)

Got a good fan that has an A/C converter, said it was real quiet, but not as much as I expected...what is the CFM of the fans everyone is using? Mine is variable up to 32CFM, but it is quieter at lower voltages...

Also...I noticed some fans are on all the time...would it make much difference if it cycled with the compressor only? If I wanted to do this then instead of having four splices in the one with the black wire (in psychodad's pics) I would route the other fan cord to the red one that had the white and red?

[lunkhead]

You might want to get the 600v wire unless the 300v rating is rms. I use a 24vdc blower rated 30cfm but only run it at about 7.5vdc. Cuts the noise and airflow way down but is enough to do the job. I run my blower 24/7 and would recomend it.

[monkey710]

Originally Posted by lunkhead

You might want to get the 600v wire unless the 300v rating is rms. I use a 24vdc blower rated 30cfm but only run it at about 7.5vdc. Cuts the noise and airflow way down but is enough to do the job. I run my blower 24/7 and would recomend it.

Yeah...I was already going to get the bigger wire...among the other things I messed up (helps if you get 3" o.d. vice i.d.!!!)

I was talking about the little fan that circulates air inside the fridge. I am going to run the blower 24/7 and I guess I will compare that noise to the fan and see if it is worth it. My wife doesn't care too much and I can always run the fan at 9 or 7.5 anyway!

[monkey710]

Well after several trips to the store and hours of cursing, I finally modded my Danby. 24 hours of chilling I get a perfect 1" head at 37 degrees.

Thank you all who started this. I eventually would have tried something, but probably would not have done as good as a job as described on here.

I raise my glass to you all...

[madmp3zz]

Originally Posted by Rkymtntexn

Great thread - Thanks to all. I went the parallel resistor route with a twist. I used a 100K pot and dialed it down to 33K ohms to start which resulted in an inside temp of 25 degrees on my unit. I dial the pot down to 30K ohms and waiting to see if the temp goes up or down. Here are my pics.

I luv this site.
What kind of wire is used to extend the sensor to the top?
Did you just cut it and extend it?

[madman]

new to the forum. my buddy has a dandy kegerator and is trying to figure out why it foams sometimes. today we went ahead and installed a 100+cfm computer fan (92mm tornado, 12v/1amp), on a fan speed controller and got power to it with an old ac/dc 12v charger that puts out 1.5 amps. we mounted it on the "roof", blowing into the tap, using an 80mm to 60mm fan adapter (drilled a bunch of holes in the adapter so there wouldn't be too much blowback into the fan).

my only concern right now is that the board for the fan controller might short out with all that condensation. we went ahead and hit it with a light coat of latex spray paint and also coated it with silicone. if the board fails, we'll just wire it directly.

i'll report on how this ends up working out, but anyone have any comments on whether this should help?

[ONEHEARTBEAT]

Please Help With Pictures I Have A Danby I Bought Used And Warm Foamy Beer. I Need To Fix

[ONEHEARTBEAT]

Please Help With Pictures I Have A Danby I Bought Used And Warm Foamy Beer. I Need To Fix TEMP NOT LOW ENOUGH AND ON A BUDGET

[monkey710]

How much of a budget?

There are pics from both chad_schloss and psychodad in this thread that show the mods.

I bought the fan for $20 (but you can get cheaper if you have an A/C adapter for the DC fan), blower for $40, temp controller for $25, and tubing for $6. Also bought insulation, PVC, and bracket for about another $25. If you have a hole saw bit that will save some $$$, but if not they are pricey.

[cubby_swans]

Originally Posted by monkey710

How much of a budget?

There are pics from both chad_schloss and psychodad in this thread that show the mods.

I bought the fan for $20 (but you can get cheaper if you have an A/C adapter for the DC fan), blower for $40, temp controller for $25, and tubing for $6. Also bought insulation, PVC, and bracket for about another $25. If you have a hole saw bit that will save some $$$, but if not they are pricey.

Man, my Danby is pouring 36 degree beer and I spent a grand total of $15 on a blower and a resistor.

[madcrazy10]

Quick question...
After you put the resistor on the sensor what do you do? Do you leave the sensor out, taped to the side, or can you put it back in it's cubby hole? What's the best option?

[rollins215]

Hey guys, I've been lurking here for a few weeks and I have to thank all of you that experimented with this thing. I did just the resistor mod (33k) and placed the sensor back it in it's cubby hole. So I thought I would share my results for the good of the group. I recorded the temperatures using a RadioShack indoor/outdoor thermometer, attaching the outdoor sensor to the little plastic grate that goes over the Danby's sensor's cubby hole. The variance of temperatures I recorded using the thermometer's MIN & MAX readings, resetting the thermometer after being in place for 24 hours and recording the 2 temps after 48 hours of resetting. The temps in comparison to those on the front are just my frequent and random inspections. The cups used for pouring and water inside are the same, 12 oz plastic ones.

Danby Designer Chill 'n Tap DKC645BLS (purchased 10/07 @ Sam's Club)

Ambient room temperature 57 to 60 degrees (basement in Western PA)

CO2 set at 10 psi

No mods:
Danby set at 36 degrees
30.7 to 39.6 degrees
Normally 1 or 2 degrees above the reading on front
Cup of water on back shelf - No ice
Beer temp after 2 pours - 38 degrees
Tower temp - 55 degrees
First pour of the night - 2 to 3 inches of foam, perfect after that

After 33k resistor:
Danby set at 39 degrees
26.4 to 37.6 degrees
Normally 4 or 5 degrees below the reading on front
Cup of water on back shelf - 1/4" ice after 48 hours
Beer temp after 2 pours - 35 degrees
Tower temp - 50 degrees
First pour of the night - 1 inch of foam, perfect after that

Well I have to say, I'm extremely pleased with these results after spending only $1.05 with tax on the resistors and about 10 minutes worth of work, including heating the soldering iron.

I just can't decide if I want to try running colder or not, what do you guys think? Beer any better below 35 degrees or no? I also haven't decided if I want to try cooling the tower more or not, 1" isn't terrible on first pours really. I also have a new tower on order from MM, a SS one with 2 faucets, so I may see how that one works out first.

[cubby_swans]

Originally Posted by madcrazy10

Quick question...
After you put the resistor on the sensor what do you do? Do you leave the sensor out, taped to the side, or can you put it back in it's cubby hole? What's the best option?

I taped mine to the side and as far to the front as it would go, hiding inside one of the recessed shelf notches. But from the post above, it looks like you can do whichever you want.

[lunkhead]

Originally Posted by rollins215

Hey guys, I've been lurking here for a few weeks and I have to thank all of you that experimented with this thing. I did just the resistor mod (33k) and placed the sensor back it in it's cubby hole. So I thought I would share my results for the good of the group. I recorded the temperatures using a RadioShack indoor/outdoor thermometer, attaching the outdoor sensor to the little plastic grate that goes over the Danby's sensor's cubby hole. The variance of temperatures I recorded using the thermometer's MIN & MAX readings, resetting the thermometer after being in place for 24 hours and recording the 2 temps after 48 hours of resetting. The temps in comparison to those on the front are just my frequent and random inspections. The cups used for pouring and water inside are the same, 12 oz plastic ones.

Danby Designer Chill 'n Tap DKC645BLS (purchased 10/07 @ Sam's Club)

Ambient room temperature 57 to 60 degrees (basement in Western PA)

CO2 set at 10 psi

No mods:
Danby set at 36 degrees
30.7 to 39.6 degrees
Normally 1 or 2 degrees above the reading on front
Cup of water on back shelf - No ice
Beer temp after 2 pours - 38 degrees
Tower temp - 55 degrees
First pour of the night - 2 to 3 inches of foam, perfect after that

After 33k resistor:
Danby set at 39 degrees
26.4 to 37.6 degrees
Normally 4 or 5 degrees below the reading on front
Cup of water on back shelf - 1/4" ice after 48 hours
Beer temp after 2 pours - 35 degrees
Tower temp - 50 degrees
First pour of the night - 1 inch of foam, perfect after that

Well I have to say, I'm extremely pleased with these results after spending only $1.05 with tax on the resistors and about 10 minutes worth of work, including heating the soldering iron.

I just can't decide if I want to try running colder or not, what do you guys think? Beer any better below 35 degrees or no? I also haven't decided if I want to try cooling the tower more or not, 1" isn't terrible on first pours really. I also have a new tower on order from MM, a SS one with 2 faucets, so I may see how that one works out first.

I have my keger in the basement too, about the same temp as yours here in S.E. Michigan. In the summer the temp in my basement gets up to about 72, I'll assume yours does close to the same. Without cooling your tower will get warmer as will the beer in it. Some out there do like their beer colder than 35deg, may overcarbonate a bit if you leave the pressure at 12-14psi. If your sure you had beer temp at 38 deg to begin with some would say stop right there.

[psychodad]

Originally Posted by rollins215

Beer any better below 35 degrees or no?

I'm the usual no vote on that. Beer can be too cold. And as far my tastes, anything below 38 is too cold. I prefer something in the mid 40s.

[rollins215]

Actually, in the summer it only goes up to about 65 or so, but you're right, I will most likely have more problems in the summer. I can't really say as I haven't had it long enough to have experienced it yet. Eh, who am I kidding, I'll have the blower setup eventually just because it's a fun project. I'll probably do that after I complete the dual faucet setup.

I think the 35-36 degree beer I'm getting right now is pretty good I probably don't want to go colder. Psychodad, I do like warmer beer if it's a porter or stout or something darker like that, but I currently have light beer on tap (I'm on a diet...Michelob Ultra Amber) and that I prefer as cold as possible. Usually I have Yeungling Lager on, though, and that's pretty good either way in my opinion. When I switched to the Ultra, though, I got to thinking how I wanted it colder and started this whole thing for me. It amazes me how super cold beer can hide how much you don't like it. My dad used to be a rep for a number of brands, including Coors, and one summer for a party he setup a cold plate cooler system with a keg of Coors Light that was 2 months expired that he got for free from the warehouse. He had that keg completely encased in ice and the cold plate full, too, for a few hours. Then he tapped it, and poured me one...it was one of the best beers I have ever enjoyed! The rest of that day got pretty fuzzy for me, though. For the record, I normally hate Coors Light.

[knees]

Lunkhead,
Have you switched to the external temp control like psychodad's yet to bypass the defrost? Or are you still satisfied with the resistor route?

I just took the top off of my Danby DKC645BLS so that I can make the tower hole bigger and I noticed that I don't have the control box next to the tower like most on here. Would mine by on the side? I'm not sure it really matters because it seems that a lot of folks on here are pleased with the resistor & blower setup.

Also, I've got a buddy that has gotten his hands on a SS 3 tap tower like the ones used in 'real' bars. Can my Danby handle 3 - 1/6 kegs?

BTW, this forum is incredible! Thanks to all!

[knees]

Lunkhead,
I just found your post about external temp control! Do you like the external with the 150k better than the 33k? I'm still curious about the the 1/6 kegs. I would LOVE to be able to get 3 in there!